Question about Dacor Millennia CER304 Electric Cooktop

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1200w element dose not work - Dacor Millennia CER304 Electric Cooktop

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  • martha olker Aug 29, 2010

    I have a 1200w burner that is not working I know it is not a barker problem . all other burners work. It stopped working after a large amount of water was spilled on the cooktop. What is the problem and if it is the burner I need the part # and where to get the part and a price . I would also like to know how to replace it myself

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The problem is not likely to be your element but the switch. You can replace this very easily but you have to go and order it from Millennia. I am not sure of the price but I know it is not to expensive.

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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Hello,

When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If the problem reoccurs, call a repairperson to diagnose it.
If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem, which will likely be a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring.

Take care.

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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1 Answer

How to replace an element


This could be a couple of issues, but unfortunately if it's your element, you would have to replace the entire element, not just the middle part. What's the rest of your model number? I can find a part number for you. (KECD806R****)

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Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

Solid Surface Element If the surface element won't work, and the stove has the solid surface element type of heat, it's likely that the solid surface element itself has burned out. The solid surface element works very similarly to other surface elements - inside there is a heating element that glows when electricity is applied to it. As it gets hotter, the heat is transferred to the solid surface element

Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
Incoming Power Problem Although not as common, if the surface element won't work it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ranges require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the surface element won't work. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.

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1 Answer

The power went out and then the elements and oven would not work but there was power to the clock?


This solution only really applies to oven elements only. I haven't experienced it with hotplate elements as they are not normally controlled by the timer. When you have an electronic timer and there is a blackout the timer normally reverts to auto. function when the power comes back on. You have to set it back to manual before the oven will work. Turn the oven element to ON and the set it to manual. The oven element indicator light will light and the oven will work.

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1 Answer

Left burner is not working


these elements merely unplug when you lift up the one side of the element,then just easily rock back and forth till it unplugs from the stove top

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1 Answer

Bottom element is not heating


bottom element need to be replaced,unplug unit,and open the oven and unscrew the screws that hold it inplace,pull it out slowly and detach the two wires and replace with a new one install in reverce order

Feb 16, 2010 | Cooktops

1 Answer

One of the burners on my kitchenaid cooktop will not heat up. What do you think the problem is? Is this something that can be easily repaired?


If it is not a glass top stove, with the power OFF, and cold, pull out a working element of the same diameter and install it where the non-working element was. Try it now. If it works, replace the heating element. If it does not, check for voltage at the element connector. CAREFULLY. Worst case is that the switch requires replacing.

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The elements DO BURN OUT. Replace it.

Often you can see evidence of a hot spot on the element where the final failure occured, but not always.

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1 Answer

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Sounds like a bad element or a switch. It is one or the other.

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1 Answer

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assuming that the worst case senario has taken place
first thing i would check is ensure i have proper voltage at the outlet, 120 from each side to ground
220 across L1-L2
the elements are the only thing on the range that uses 220v
if you know how to use a mutimeter
you can test both the elements
disconnect the range at teh breaker
take out the screws at the back wall that hold the elements in
pull out about an inch becareful they dont leave much slack on the wires
disconnect on element terminal and apply your leads your looking for continuity, your meter should beep
if not replace the element
if yes, let the element hang ensureing niether terminal touches anything, reconnect the other terminal
now turn the stove on bake if your doing the lower
turn you meter to ac voltage
you should read 220v
anything less than that, your problem is before that

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First of all, are you sure it is the elements and not the controler? To test the elements, lift theplate out of the worktop, change the 2 wires from a good element to that element. put the plate back in it is home and use the good elements touchtronic button to turn on the element. I am willing to wager that it is the control unit and not the elements.

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