The light stays on even with no rca's or spearker wire are hooked up...please help best amp i've ever had.i even hooked it up in a differrent car and the light still came on im clueless...n e solutions.....u know of n e good repair shops
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Re: low ohm light on my jl 500/1
If the low impedance light is on, the amp probably has shorted output transistors. If you don't know of a good local repair shop, call 'several' of the local audio sales/installation shops to see who they use. If more than one audio shop recommends the same repair shop, they probably do good work.
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Make sure all your connections are tight , really tight . Check ground , make sure it's to clean shiney metal. Three subs are going to have a low ohm load if paralleled . These amps are not 1 ohm stable ,if below 1.5 ohm's you will have problems. They need to be series paralleled to raise the ohm load. These amps put out the same power from 4 to 1.5 ohms.
not really a problem, your just running a the threshold of the amps comfort zone, a lil trick to raise your impedance a little bit its to run an additional 10 feet of wire before your sub, (longer the wire the more resistance) 10 feet should jump you up about .5 ohms. you wont hear the difference but your amp will fill it, and run a little better. 20 feet will give you right around 1 ohm. now if you dont mind loosing some power run the subs in series and then run them bridged. your amp will work harder, but run easier because its on a big open loop. but before all this take a multi meet and read out your voice coils to see what the ohm level is, then read out what it is at the speaker, then you will see 1. if the subs are okay, and 2. how much you need to raise your impedance for you amp to run comfortably.
The JL Audio 500/1 outputs 500 watts RMS into a load from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Whether your subs have 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coils, they should be wired in series and the subs paralleled to the amp. The final load to the amp will be either 2 ohms or 4 ohms, both of which the amp can handle. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the final impedance will be either 0.5 ohm or 1 ohm, both too low for the amp.
You can wire each sub to a separate set of terminals or both to the same set. The terminals are connected internally. It doesn't matter which of the +'s or -'s you use.
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.
I would try running the subs in parallel. Pos to Pos Dual Voice, Neg to Neg Dual Voice. Then Run + to + stereo - to - stereo on both channels.
So you have + and - running to one channel and + and - running to the other channel.
Also your LPF filter could be set too high.