The light stays on even with no rca's or spearker wire are hooked up...please help best amp i've ever had.i even hooked it up in a differrent car and the light still came on im clueless...n e solutions.....u know of n e good repair shops
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Re: low ohm light on my jl 500/1
If the low impedance light is on, the amp probably has shorted output transistors. If you don't know of a good local repair shop, call 'several' of the local audio sales/installation shops to see who they use. If more than one audio shop recommends the same repair shop, they probably do good work.
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if you are are talking about an amp and subs simply get an amp istalation kit take the big red wire and hook it to your battery with the fuse that should be in the kit,thats going to go into the b+ on the amp take the black wire and find somewere near your amp with a bolt going into the car seat bolts work the best, this is for your ground. the little blue wire goes from the back of the radio at the remote wire to the rem inlet on your amp.i always put mine on a toggle switch so if you dont want it on you can just flip it off.To do this just simply run a 12 power wire into the switch and your remote wire coming out of the switch.Finally hook your spearkers into the amp red is posotive black is negative.thats all there is to an audio system.
well the nasty spark it shoots its because you r to first connect negative first always and than positive or check ur main cable/fuse that is connected to your battery inside the fuse box its actually pretty easy to find just follow the positive red wire from your battery till u get to the fuse box it looks like its connected to negative and positive, check it it may be the problem(inside the fuse box), if it isn't you should check the main source of battery recharge which is your alternator it may be going bad
Make sure all your connections are tight , really tight . Check ground , make sure it's to clean shiney metal. Three subs are going to have a low ohm load if paralleled . These amps are not 1 ohm stable ,if below 1.5 ohm's you will have problems. They need to be series paralleled to raise the ohm load. These amps put out the same power from 4 to 1.5 ohms.
probably something corssed in your speaker wiring. be sure that you did not exceed the ohmage capabilities of the amp, and that no speaker wires are crossed, or shorting out on the frame. if you have too many speakers hooked up, that can reduce the ohmage, and your not supposed to go below 2 ohms -per channel, or 4 ohms bridged mono.
You are on the right track. It's not the amp, but it is the rca wires. When you have them plugged into the stereo, you can touch them together and it will make the same sounds you described also, though I don't recommend doing that! Rca wires can be weird sometimes but usually I replace them with new ones. Even a brand new set of cheap ones will do the same thing sometimes. The noise you here is causes by either a small short in the wiring, running the rca's to close to the power wire for the amp (or any other power wire for that matter), and sometimes you can buy a grounding kit for them that is fairly cheap that will help. Most of the time for me, it was just the connections, but replacing them basically took me through all these steps at once. Just remember, you still have a chance that your head unit is the cause by the connections getting old and wore out on the inside. Hope this helps!
In most vehicles, the speaker wires have 6v of DC on them. That could be part of the problem. You need to use an LOC (Line Output Converter). You should be able to get one from Wal-Mart, Radio Shack or any car stereo shop.
The JL Audio 500/1 outputs 500 watts RMS into a load from 1.5 to 4 ohms. Whether your subs have 2 ohm or 4 ohm voice coils, they should be wired in series and the subs paralleled to the amp. The final load to the amp will be either 2 ohms or 4 ohms, both of which the amp can handle. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the final impedance will be either 0.5 ohm or 1 ohm, both too low for the amp.
You can wire each sub to a separate set of terminals or both to the same set. The terminals are connected internally. It doesn't matter which of the +'s or -'s you use.
The first thing is to meter all the speakers with a volt/ohm meter. They should read somewhere between 2-6 ohms. If they meter good try swapping the RCA's and see if there is any difference. But if both of those check out ok than. Unfortunately it would appear that your amp has a bad output channel. What seems to happen is that when the amp is cycled off and on, off and on etc. the solder on the PCB can get brittle causing problems. The only answer i can offer is to send it to JL to repair or find a good repair shop that works on car audio amps. It's getting harder to find a good tech but they are out there. If you send it to JL they have a set repair rate of $180.00 which covers the return postage while the customer pays the shipping cost getting it there. They do an excellent job and pretty much go thru the whole board and replace not only what is wrong but will also perform any mods or changes since date of manufacture.