Question about Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load Washer

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I have a Whirlpool Cabrio Washer, Model WTW6600SB3 with the smell problem. One suggestion that I received was to pull the basket (tub into which the clothes are placed for washing) and determine if mold was on the bottom. When I pulled the basket, I found that water was inside the plastic housing at the bottom of the basket. The basket appears to be a sealed unit. I power washed and/or sanitized all of the parts thoroughly including the interior plastic tub that holds the water. Guess what!??? The smell is back. Could the water in the housing be the cause of the smell? Is there a way to purge the water from the housing? I could drill holes in the bottom of the housing to allow the water to drain, but am hesitant to do so for fear of damaging the washing machine. Any thoughts or recommendations. Thanks. Mike

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 159 Answers

SOURCE: Water Leakage Under Front Load Washer

most likley cause of your problem is the grey bellows has a tear in it. Inspect the bellows to check for tears. Or you can remove the lower panel and run the washer and look for the leak that way. Im sure it is a tear in the belows. Not a diffacult part to replace if you are mechanicly inclined. Good luck.

Posted on Jul 12, 2007

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Mold & Smelly in Washer

Shepherd, Finkelman, Miller & Shah, LLC, is currently investigating defects and other problems in certain front-loading washing machines manufactured and/or sold by Whirlpool, Kenmore, and LG Electronics, including Kenmore Elite HE3 front load washers, Whirlpool Duet front load washers and LG Tromm, LG XL and other LG model front load washers, which result in the growth of mold/mildew in the machines and which can cause the staining of clothes and other problems.

On August 29, 2007, SFMS filed a Complaint against Sears Holding Corp. involving its Kenmore HE, HE2, HE3, HE4, HE5 and other front-loading automatic washers. If you own a front-loading washing machine that is manufactured by any of the above-mentioned companies and are experiencing the growth of mold/mildew in the machine, visit the following website: www.frontloadwasherclassaction.com

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

aborcass
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SOURCE: Funky smell from working Whirlpool Ultimate Care II

ive experienced a smell, somewhat electrical in nature. when the motor is over worked,, restricted incoming power supply, or simply a fluky one time issue and never repeated again.. generally the motor overheats and trips off on overload, shuts off temporarilly and then restarts with no sign of problem.i guess it would be possible that perhaps theres something stuck between the tubs and at high speed spin causes friction against the tubs causing a smell, but not likely cause that usually heard, or prevents unit from spinning at all. other then checking your incoming power supply for at least 110v. probably not much else to look into. Obviously its not my house, and if it was to happen again or with any sorta frequency, call someone in to look at.

Posted on Mar 24, 2008

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: washer won't spin

The first thing I would check is if your timer is advancing. Set it at th beginning of a wash cycle and let it go. See if the timer knob arrow advances. If it doesn't, your timer is bad.

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: 10yr whirlpool toploader wash machine no spin/agitat. but works?

When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: 

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. 

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve. 

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool Cabrio washer Model number WTW63003WO that gets off balance and displays a UL code.


It's important to check the level of the unit, and assure all adjustable feet are firmly planted on the ground first. A very common problem with these units are the suspension dampening rods, when they get weak they allow the tub to move around too much while spinning, and sometimes washing. A simple test by an experienced technician who knows what to look for would be to reach into the wash basket while the machine is empty and off, and push the tub all the way down till it stops, the technician will be looking for the amount of resistance it takes for this to happen. The easier it is to push the basket and tub assembly down to the end of it's travel the weaker the suspension rods are. At least one update to these suspension rods have been made, suggesting the current replacements are stronger. Part# W10247710, based on a model number of WTW6300WW0. Pleazer Appliance...

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The cabrio has a shaft that runs between the wash plate and the rotor located under the washer. The usual cause for noise during spin is something that has made it's way between the spin basket and tub. But it's best to try and determine if the noise is from under the washer or inside the washer, that way you aren't randomly taking things apart. See if you can pin point the location of the noise.

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I have the same issue. when I remove the wash basket from the tub the plastic parts all seem to have a lot of water trapped inside them. I am looking for a solution and may start my own question. not getting any fault code at all the washer runs as designed. but the dirty water trapped in the plastic top of and bottom of the wash basket is making the clean clothes smell like a dirty dish rag.

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Step by step instructions found HERE starting on page 4-9 on how to remove your basket.
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Hope you get rich....:)

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My washer is blinking F 50. what do I do?


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My cabrio washer sounds like it has coins under the basket when it goes through the spin cycle. how do i get them out?


Assuming that this is a Whirlpool Cabrio, see the following Whirlpool Service manual. It has sections on how to pull the agitators, tub etc.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/409753510a90c8be852571e90073421b/$FILE/8178583.pdf


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