Question about Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

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No Heat! The dryer blows air but no heat! The thermostats, heating coil and and everything else tested okay! There is a ceramic fuse component that is hot to touch up in the top behind the controls.

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HI thanks for your question. check the timer contacts B & C on the timer. could be your probem thanks the appliance doc. please rate my answer. thanks

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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Check your supply voltage the motor runs on 110v so it is possible that you have lost the other leg of 120 so the motor runs but the heater doesnt get the 240 necessary to operate.
also there could be trouble with the motor switch or the timer so make sure you have 240 at the heater. if not then follow the 240 from the terminal block till you find where it stops

Posted on May 07, 2008

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Continues to blow the high temp stat. I clean the blower and replaced the venting. I also replaced the heating coil the dryer heats up for a load and then it stopss heating. I test the high temp stat


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Feb 17, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag Bravos XL Dryer not heating- blowing thermal fuse


The thermostat is controlling the temperature, however the Heating Coil may be defective. Check the COIL.

Feb 27, 2014 | Maytag MEDB950YW Electric Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer, a Whirlpool LER8648LW0, has stopped heating. It will turn on and run through the cycles but only blows cold air. Today I checked the thermal fuse, both thermostats, and the heating elements with...


Hi Jesse
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Bud

Oct 10, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Amana dryer blows but will not heat


Hi lhughes60...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 28, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer wont heat up? we checked the home fuse box and everything good there so now what?


Hi robslobinc...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Aug 19, 2011 | Kenmore 67082 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

DRYER IS NOT BLOWING HEAT ON THE HEAT SETTINGS...


Hi yr2011...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

Jul 08, 2011 | Roper Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenore series 80 electric dryer that will not heat. It runs but no heat ,blows cold aor/ model 11060832990 serial # mk0223061 Please tell me what might by wrong and what year this dryer might...


Hi julienron...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.

If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please take time to rate me

Jun 21, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

My Maytag Performa dryer is not heating at all .What should i do? Everything else works it just doesnt heat.


Hi

Replace the thermal fuse, and if possible test the heating group (thermostats and element or gas heater). You can replace the fuse straight away, or you can first test it using a multimeter set on OHMS. If the multimeter reads Ohms infinity when you touch the fuse contacts with its probes, then the fuse is gone.
If the fuse is OK, then you can have a defective thermostat or heating element (electric models), with gas models you test coils, thermostats and ignitor (flame sensor rarely fails).


After fixing the problem clean lint from air ducts, if the thermal fuse or thermostat has blown it means that there had been overheating.

May 09, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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