Question about Kenmore 74962 Gas Dryer

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Dryer will not heat when turned on. Where are the fuses located, how do i determine if fuse is bad and how are they removed?

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  • turnerjj941 Aug 30, 2010

    The dryer is a kenmore elite. model # 110 74962300. There is a bottom panel beneath the door, however there is not a peek hole. The troubleshooting guide said to check the fuse however the guide did not indicate where the fuse was located or how to check it. I released the front panel to see if fuses were located there and did not see anything that resembled a fuse. The dryer is gas and I am not sure where to look for an ignitor sense there is no peek hole. Anything that you may suggest will be appreciated.

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If the dryer is gas and it runs you don't have to worry about any fuses,first thing to look at,there should be a bottom panel or a peek hole on the bottom on the front of dryer so you can see the ignitor,you have to pop out the plastic cap if there is no panel and see if the ignitor is glowing,if it is most likely you have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve,if it isn't glowing you need to check with a meter and dryer unpluged the ignitor,the sensor and you could check the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,it will take you no more than 10 minutes to check this out,let me know what you find and if you send the model number i can tell you the part number that you'll need,let me know what you find

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

  • Sal DeAngelo Aug 29, 2010

    most parts are held in with a 1/4 inch screw and other parts with a 5/16 inch screw,most of the time all you need for tools to work on a kenmore dyrer is a regular screw driver a phillips screw driver a 1/4 inch and a 5/16 inch nut driver and a meter

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1 Answer

Kenmore series 80 electric dryer won't heat


First you have to determine whether you element is in the front or the back of the machine this is done easiest by looking at the front of the machine and seeingif its one complete piece or two. If its one, the element is in the back, if two its in the front. We'll start if its in the back first. Tools you'll need is: 1/4 nut driver or drill with 1/4 adapter and a multimeter with ability to check continuity. With the machine unplugged, remove the back cover of the dryer. Once done, the heating element will be located on the right hand side with two fuses on the housing of the element. Test the element and each fuse seperatly by removing the wires and checking for continuity on each component. All parts should show continuity, so if one doesn't its bad and needs to be replaced. Now if the element is the front everything is the same with the exception of you have to remove the lower portion, usually held on by 3-4 screws located underneath.

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Where is the dryer fuse located on a whirlpool dryer


Hi garycimbala9
The fuses/thermostats/Thermistor will be located in the back of the dryer on the air tube where they montitor heat and causes the element to turn on and off...cycle.
you will have to remove the back panel and then look for the air tube, there will be "roundish things" attached at different points with wires running to them...remove the wires( make sure you mark down on a piece of paper the color of the wire to the terminal.
Check each fuse with an volt/ohm meter for continuity...they should have continuity to be ok, if they don't then they are faulty.
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Sep 06, 2011 | Dryers

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My dryer whirlpool still blow cool air but do not heat please tell me what the problem henry le


Bad heating element or bad thermo fuse.
You will have to unplug the dryer and remove the back to access the heating element. The thermo fuse is located on the side of the heating element.
If you don't have a meter to test the element and thermo fuse or just don't know how simply remove them from the dryer and take them to your local appliance repair shop and they can test them for you.

Aug 03, 2011 | Whirlpool LER4600 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer stoped working was told that it could be the overload switch do not know where it is located


The most common cause of an ELECTRIC dryer that will not turn on, is a blown thermal fuse, defective door switch, bad power cord, or a broken drum belt.

If the voltage at the wall receptacle is correct, check the voltage again at the terminal block where it connects to the dryer. UNPLUG the dryer and remove the the small access cover where the power cord is installed. You should read 220-240VAC at the wall receptacle and terminal block. If BOTH readings are good, the problem is INTERNAL to the dryer. If bad at the receptacle, you need to double check the power source that feeds the wall receptacle. Some homes use two separate 120VAC breakers instead of one 220-240VAC breaker. Make sure the breaker(s) is not tripped. If the reading is normal at the wall receptacle, but bad at the terminal block, replace your power cord.


If the problem is internal, the thermal fuse will be mounted on the blower fan housing. It is a small plastic looking component (usually white in color) with two wires attached to it. Disconnect the wires before taking any resistance checks. If the fuse is good, it should read something close to zero ohms. If bad, you will read an infinite reading. These fuses DO NOT reset and must be replaced if bad.
The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower fan housing inside the dryer. The blower fan housing is located directly under the dryer drum (front access), or behind the rear panel of the dryer (rear access) with the thermal fuse mounted on top (refer to parts drawing at the website(s) provided.


NOTE: If the thermal fuse is blown, it generally blows for a reason. This could be an indication that you have a clog in the ventilation system, causing the dryer to overheat. Do a thorough inspection of your dryer interior and the entire exhaust vent from where it exits your dryer to where it exits your home, BEFORE replacing any defective parts. Failure to do so, may result in repeated failures of the same parts.


If the dryer belt is broken, the dryer may not run. Some models have a broken belt switch that will shut the dryer off when the belt breaks. This is determined by the MODEL NUMBER.

Another cause of a dryer that will not turn on, is a broken door switch. An easy method to test the switch is to open the door and press by hand. If the dryer drum light is working, you should be able to toggle the light on and off. If the switch is found to be defective, it must be replaced.



If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Again, begin by verifying the source voltage at the receptacle and service breaker, and verify your power cord.

The reason a dryer may still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be purchased at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations that you can use to locate and properly identify any parts you may need. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.



NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Apr 21, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

3 Answers

Dryer runs but doesn't get hot what may be the problem?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

NOTE: If the thermal fuse was blown, the dryer normally will not run at all. Don't become confused with the Thermal Fuse and the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO).

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool Dryer Does not Heat


The following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. Regardles of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

NOTE: If the thermal fuse was blown, the dryer normally will not run at all. Don't become confused with the Thermal Fuse and the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO).

If you have any questions, please let me know. Please inlcude your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) when asking questions, so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

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1 Answer

Can't get my Dryer Mod#11062922100 to heat up. I replaced the Thermal Cutoff parts but no luck. Any ideas?


The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum. Regardless of location, the Heating Element is located inside the heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace. All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Do not get confused with the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) and the Thermal Fuse. The TCO is located on the outside of the heater box, while the Thermal Fuse is located on the Blower Fan housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, it generally shuts down the whole dryer. The TCO will allow the drum to still turn, but there will be no heat.

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1 Answer

My dryer will not turn off or heat? ideas


Seems you have 2 problems.
1. Bad thermal fuse located on the heat canister on the top left side.
2. Bad heating element. shorted out.
Remove the back panel to access these parts.
Remeber to unplug the dryer.

Mar 10, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Where is the fuse in kenmore elite dryer


Check your breakers first. Turn off then back on. Then check trhe wiring from the receptacle to the dryer and to the heating elements. The thermal fuse is located under the top. You will have to remove some screws to get to it. Bypass the fuse and if it works, then replace it. It is only 15 dollars. If all is O.K., then check the heating element. It may be bad especially if the dryer is over 10 years old.

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2 Answers

The dryer works but does not heat


Before you buy an expensive heating element change out the thermal fuse. It's only about 15 dollars for a fuse as opposed to around 100 dollars for a heating element. Both can be purchased at a appliance repair shop. The thermal fuse is usually located near the heating element housing and has two wires coming off of it. Make sure you unplug the dryer first though. If the thermal fuse if dead then your heating element will only heat for about a second or two at a time. The way to check this is to open up the dryer so you can see the heating element. While it's running watch it and it the heating element comes on and then turns off then the thermal fuse is bad. If it doesn't come on at all then the heating element is bad. Wait a good 5 minutes though before determining if the heating element isn't coming on. Sometimes it takes a bit before it engages. I hope this helps you and if you have any more questions feel free to ask me. Good luck.

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