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Kenmore 90 series washer won't spin/drain. It fills/agitates, but when it hits the drain or spin part of the cycle it just stops. If I manually move it to rinse cycle, it will agitate again, but still won't drain when done. Tried it in all speed settings. Thought it would be the lid switch. bypassed it with a wire in the plug, but nothing happens. What do I try now? Kenmore Model 110.20902990

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

RescueTech
  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Washer 110.26912690 series 90

Hi Norm. Welcome to FixYa.
The first thing to check with the kind of symptoms your machine exhibits is the operation of the lid switch. Make sure that the pin/plunger on the lid itself has not broken off, and check the actuator lever on the switch itself. It is REALLY common on your model for the actuator arm to break off or crack, and this will cause no spin/no pump problems. Your machine is built by Whirlpool and the part number for the switch assembly is a 3849238. You can get it at any local whirlpool parts center in your area.

I hope you find this info helpful and thank you for allowing us to serve you.

Happy New Year from the FixYa crew!

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: Remove agitator on Kenmore 90 series

ok take the top off the agitator there is a cap carefully remove this cap and then some have a inner cap with a handle remove that also in side the agitator it has a 1/2" or 7/16" head bolt remove the bolt and then pull up really ******* the agitator. to replace dogs you have to break the taps holding them in not the agitator be careful
'

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: series 90 Kenmore washes but won't rinse or spin

A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

ned_san_jose
  • 230 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series fills with water but would not agitate or spin

You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.

2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.

Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.

Best of luck!

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore 80 series model 110 23832100 - Washer

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110+23832100&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for these washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. You don't have to remove the drum.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin
gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All told, fixing ours cost less than $30 including about 16 oz. of 80-90 weight gear oil (from an auto parts store) instead of $170 plus service for a new transmission.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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