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I have replaced the heating element,thermal fuse, and checked the heating element thermal cut-off. the dryer still won't heat. Checked all wire connections.

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Okay, sounds like it should. I would check the outlet to ensure I have the 220 volts, if I don't then this is the problem. If I have the 220 volts then i would remove the vent hose and feel if there is any hot air coming out. If not then I would say it may be something in the controls and would investigate behind the controls for a loose or burnt wire. Hope this helps Tim

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

rickead1
  • 1998 Answers

SOURCE: Amana dryer not heating, replaced Thermal Cut off, High limit thermostat and Thermal Fuse, and new breakers in fuse panel

Hello, Before you replaced all those parts did you check each with a multimeter by performing an ohms test or measuring for continuity? By doing this it would tell if any of the parts that you had replaced were at fault. You can also conduct the same test on the heater as well. when performing any ohms or continuity test make sure the unit is unplugged and that you also unplug the part as well from the wires that are connected to it. I await your reply if you have any other questions. Thank you
Rick

Posted on Dec 02, 2011

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1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer wont heat


Hi Marlene Hatcher

Here are a few more things to check, you have checked some of these already:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Oct 17, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

Tip

Electric dryer will not heat?


If the electric dryer does not heat at all then there are some possibilities that have to be checked to confirm the fault.
1)check whether you are getting power to the dryer from electric out let to which the dryer is connected. The power problem can also occur if the fuse is blown or the circuit breaker is got tripped.
2) Other possibility for dryer not heating is the blown thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is located to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. This fuse blows out if the dryer gets overheated or any short circuit occurs in the house when dryer is in working.
3) The other possibility if the power is ok and if the thermal fuse is ok. Then the problem can be due to fault in the heating element. The heating element looks like a long coil of special wire. You can check heating elements continuity with an ohm meter. If there is no continuity that means the element is bad and you need to replace it. The heating elements cannot be repaired it should be replaced if faulty.
4) But if all the above mentioned possibilities checks out OK, and still the same problem, then there is a fault in the wiring. Check the main power cord of the dryer which you connect in the electric out let. If the power wire is got internally burned out or got cut in between the dryer will not get proper power and will not work Due to partial power.
This will help. Thanks.

on Mar 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Maytag dryer heating element won't come on


you should have a nominal 240 volts between the 2 heating element connections

Feb 07, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Amana dryer not heating, replaced Thermal Cut off, High limit thermostat and Thermal Fuse, and new breakers in fuse panel


Hello, Before you replaced all those parts did you check each with a multimeter by performing an ohms test or measuring for continuity? By doing this it would tell if any of the parts that you had replaced were at fault. You can also conduct the same test on the heater as well. when performing any ohms or continuity test make sure the unit is unplugged and that you also unplug the part as well from the wires that are connected to it. I await your reply if you have any other questions. Thank you
Rick

Dec 02, 2011 | Amana NED4500VQ Dryer

1 Answer

Replaced heating element,2 relays & still no heat. Checked 220. ok if the door switch makes the dryer run, could it still be the door switch that won't let it heat?


Hi margorothehis..
Yes, it is possible the door switch is faulty not allowing it to heat.
I will send you my generic fix, you have already checked some of these,you might have missed one.
Please rate me
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

Sep 03, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool gas dryer runs but does not heat. I checked continuity on all the safety devices and they all checked out OK. what else can I check?


Hello there and welcome to fixya
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) To determine if the thermal fuse has blown out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Aug 16, 2011 | Whirlpool GGW9868K Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer drum works but does not heat. Everything else works. I have checked the fuse and I have made sure it is not on air dry.


THERMAL FUSES MAY BE THE CAUSE OF THIS In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. Follow the diagram below to see how to check the continuity of the switch, and look closely at the switch to see a fairly close idea of what you are looking for, ok

jim_james_43.jpg

OR it could be a thermostat.
Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity .

or lastly, it might be
the Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuity across a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).

IF you do not have an OHM-METER, then you can check these issues by following the directions below:

To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.


To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.

To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.


Do not forget to rate this answer!!

Jan 24, 2011 | Frigidaire Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

KENMORE GAS DRYER NOT HEATING UP


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. No Heat issue in dryer is usually caused due to three things mainly: Thermal Fuse, Wiring Harness and/or Heating Element. Start with checking the Thermal Fuse which ismounted inside the back cover panel to the exhaust duct and is mounted in white plastic housing. If thats fine then the Heating Element should be checked. Please do revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Apr 17, 2010 | Zanussi TC180W Electric Portable Dryer

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