Question about GE 21.9 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator - Bisque-on-Bisque

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My freezer coils keep freezing up causing the refrigerator not to cool. what could be the problem

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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer

heatman101

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: coils freezing up on my maytag msd2656dew refrigerator

Replace the thermostat...I had the same problem...I checked the fan, defrost heater and Adaptive Frost control and could not find anything wrong. Replaced the thermostat and the problem went away.

Posted on Dec 11, 2007

Maanita
  • 1142 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator not cooling

see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor

Posted on Aug 07, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: maytag msd2651hew refrigerator

Defrost heater or heater safety thermostat or defrost timer faulty.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Freezer coils keep freezing up.

I had a similar problem with a Maytage Side-by-SIde Model MDZ2768GEW, (purchased in 2001). Defrost not working...poor cooling in both the freezer and fridge. We opened up the back of the Freezing side and the coils were iced. This Model is auto defrost so obviously something was not working. We called a Sears repair office and they sent a guy that told us we needed to defrost the unit. Well...I wasn't home and my father-in-law didn't question it - he defrosted it! I was busy at the time and didn't pursue it until the problem naturally resurfaced a month or so later. Not wanting to haggle with Sears over their Tech's lazy incompetence (or the $100 I was out), I decided to commence troubleshooting. I'm an ex Navy nuke electrician and electrical engineer so this didn't seem to be beyond my ability. Not having the Owners Manual, I internet searched until I found this site: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/html/index.html. You can download your model's Service Manual and root around for other tech info their. I found the manual for mine and performed the troubleshooting for the Adaptive Defrost Control. Its fairly easy to do and you don't have to empty the entire fridge. You do have to empty the upper shelf in the fresh food (cooler) side to gain access to the controls. --This may not be in the exact order needed but you remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and sliding it forward (slotted attachment - no screws). Next Remove several screws holding the fascia / radiant shield on. Then remove screws that mount the control housing to top of fridge, etc. I also removed two screws that mount the ADC to the plastic housing to get access to the ADC. Basically, remove enough screws to lower the top assembly down to get to the ADC... --You may need to turn off the fridge now (or do it before you started the previous steps but the light helped me). If you are not using a Wattmeter, I don't think you need to pull the power cord. --The Service Manual next says to attach a Wattmeter to the fridge (and assumedly plug it back in). Most people don't have a Wattmeter...but what I had is a clamp-on ammeter...which you can get as part of "better" multi-meters for well under $100. An ammeter is good enough if you know how to multiply voltage and current to get VA (or approximately) Watts. Any idiot can do this...I think. P(Power) = V x I x pf. What you calculate with VxI is Apparent Power (VA). You convert to "real" power (Watts) by multiplying VA x pf. You generally have to guess at pf, but 0.8 for a motor/compressor is a good approximation and 1.0 for a heater or indandescent light bulb is roughly good. Enough electrical basics... --With Fridge plugged in, and being careful not to touch exposed connections, move the ADC control board so you can gain access to it (2 screws were removed previously to loosen it from the housing at top/back right of fresh food side). The ADC is a small printed ckt board about 3" x 3". --Use a small insulated jumper (or insulated alligator clip) and jumper Pins labeled "L1" and "Test". These are labeled on the PC board and were the two left-most pins, side by side, on my ADC. The Manual doesn't say whether to leave the jumper on or not. I tried both ways and I believe all you need to do is momentarily jumper the two pins (but my ADC wasn't working right, which I will get to later)...so I'm a bit unclear on this part. Also - DO NOT jumper between any other pins, or you may damage the ADC, if it's not toast already. The pins are close together so you need to take some care in doing this. --According to the Service Manual, you should read about 500-600 Watts of total power consumption if the unit is in Defrost mode. I found (referring to the electrical schematic), the main red power wire (ty-wrapped to a green/yellow wire that goes to the main lights). Power is red so it's process of elimination to find the "right" red wire. It's not that hard to figure out. I also confirmed this by playing with the door switch light and watching amps go up and down as I pressed & released the door switch. Ultimately, I measured about 2.2 Amps with the unit working normally (cooling) and 6 Amps in Defrost mode...and about 120 Vac supply. So...VoltsxAmps=VA, which equates to 720VA. I don't know what the power factor of the unit is...but with the compressor and freezer fan off, and only the defrost heater and lights on...the power factor would be close to 1.0. So my reading might have been a touch high but...what it did prove is that a) the heater works (I could feel heat off of it and I had the freezer panel removed and saw it melting ice), and b) the thermostat was working. --I also confirmed proper thermostat operation by measuring it "open" with an ohmmeter after the defrost cycle and measuring it "closed" once it cooled down enough (book says ~ 45F thermostat opens and ~15F it closes (to allow defrost when commanded by ADC). --What I found was that when I jumpered L1 and TEST, the Defrost didn't come on...until I manually turned the Freezer control off - and then back on again. Once I did this it started Defrosting (amps rose from about 2 to 6, compressor and freezer fan shut off and heater started heating. I repeated this twice after waiting for the unit to cool down after the defrost cycle. You can also just unplug the fridge to terminate the Defrost cycle and if the temp hasn't risen above the thermostat setpoint, you can immediately repeat jumper testing as necessary. --The defrost heater stayed on for about 5-8 minutes and after a total of 23 minutes the compressor/fan restarted - which matched what I read somewhere - though doesn't match the ADC Instruction Manual - which I show a website for further down. --So it appears the ADC is just not entering the Defrost cycle but does exit it properly. I believe that my problem is the ADC as I proved the heater works and the thermostat (as I mentioned earlier). Other than bad/intermittent open wiring, there's nothing else in the circuit and I believe I ruled out a bad connection by taking the thermostat connector apart several times and jostling wires up at the ADC to gain access. According to what I can find, the replacement ADC for my unit is Part No. 12002495. One should verify the P/N for their particular model. You can look at the Instruction Sheet here: www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16023486.pdf. It also has some info on how the ADC is supposed to work...NOTE: You should verify this P/N with someone, as I will before I order it. FYI...at Partselect.com, they show a replacement PN (their #) as PS2061226, for about $61. I've seen various prices on different sites and this was pretty reasonable. Lord knows what Maytag/Sears would charge. Maybe add a "1" to the front? ;) PartSelect also indicates different "Series" numbers for the same PS number for the ADC...not sure about which one I have so Buyer beware, make sure you resolve this before ordering -- I still have to. Anyway, hope this is helpful to someone out there in cyberspace. I will have to confirm my P/N and then buy the ADC. If anyone out there, esp pros, have any suggestions feel free to chime in. Except if you are the guy that told us to defrost our auto defrost fridge to "fix" the problem, for 100 smackers no less. You Sir, should be caned 100 times for being a slug. No economic stimulus for You!

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have an Amana Refrigerator Model # ARB2202CC

where is the defrost timer located?

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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GE DL213908 Side by Side Refrigerator not freezing or cooling properly


It doesn't cool
  1. Condenser coils
Make sure you dust off the condenser coils to prevent dust build up and overheating due to it overworking. Simply unplug and use a long coil cleaning brush to get rid of debris.
  1. Check seals
If your refrigerator door seal is broken, warm air is pushing its way inside the unit, thus causing it to not cool properly. Prevent this from happening by replacing your seal and keeping the cool air inside.
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Ensure that your thermostat is set correctly, usually 38-40 degrees Fahrenheit.
  1. Defective condenser fan
When this fan is defective, cold air is prevented from flowing through the vents. It may require replacement.
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Check if there are clicking sounds coming from the compressor as it tries to start. If there is a clicking, it is one of only two options, either the start capacitor or a bad compressor. A start capacitor is fairly inexpensive whereas a sealed system repair on the compressor is very expensive and often not cost effective. Refrigerator Repair Help Troubleshooting and Parts

Aug 18, 2014 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer coils keep freezing up


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Sep 01, 2011 | General Electric GSH22JFX Side by Side...

1 Answer

The coils in the freezer department keep icing up completely. I manually defrost and then it works for a time (a couple of months) until the coils freeze again.


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Aug 09, 2011 | Refrigerators

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Freezer not freezing but cools like the refrigerator would. Refrigerator not cooling enough. the cover in the back of the refrigerator was off. I reconnected but the freezer still won't freeze


is the freezer fan running? is there frost on the rear freezer wall if so it would be a defrost issue. if no frost on freezer rear panel it would sound like a bad compressor or sealedsystem leak.

Jun 06, 2011 | Kenmore Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer coil keeps freezing up,defrost coil not staying on long enough.


Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Jun 02, 2011 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

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Our freezer keeps freezing up and it causes it to


If you tell me the model number found in locations in photo below I can help you.
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Jul 13, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer compartment of refrigerator not freezing


First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
So, how can the Ref side be cold and the freezer side not freezing?

1. Coolant leak. There is enough coolant to keep the Ref side cool but not enough to freeze on the freezer side.

2. Defrost system failure. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice and it's just a matter of time when the Ref side won't cool either. The back wall in the freezer will be covered with ice/frost

Jan 09, 2009 | Nor-Lake Norlake Refrigeration 4' x 6'...

1 Answer

Freezer freezing over


We have the same problem: We own a Fridgedare FRS26ZXH that's about 10 years old. We went to the following website: http://www.refrigerators.com/refrigeratortroubleshooting.aspx
and found a solution.

A refrigerator self-defrosts about four times a day. If a part of the self-defrosting system stops working, the refrigerator keeps cooling. This causes frost and ice to build up on the evaporator coils, which keeps air from the circulating fan, which in turn prevents the refrigerator from cooling properly. It sounds contradictory, but if there's ice building up in your freezer, your refrigerator probably isn't cold enough either. We could not see the coils in the back of the freezer compartment (should be shiny aluminum color). All we could see was ice build up over what might look like a vent.

We carefully blew warm air on these coils with a hair dryer until we could see the coils. Time will tell the cause of this problem if it happens again. It may be coincidence that the outside temp went into the teens and my 4 year old flipped off our house's heating system overnight, causing the issue.

If the problem is with the defrost system, it's either the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.

Oct 13, 2008 | Frigidaire FRS26ZSG

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