Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines

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A side panel came off the tab that holds it in place. In an effort to get the side panel back over the tab that holds it in place, I took out the 3 screws at the bottom of the back panel and now the whole thing is apart. I can't get the side panels in place and I can't line up the screw holes at the bottom of the back panel. What can I do?

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  • steve
    steve Aug 28, 2010

    We must have a model number to help you.

  • greatauk Aug 29, 2010

    I double checked and it is the model number I provided earlier: LA 6800XTWO. It's about 21 years old. Hope this helps.
    Thank you.

  • greatauk Aug 31, 2010

    thank you for the help. My father in law was able to put it back together by putting it on its face (front panel) and getting everything back together that way.

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 3,361 Answers

Remove the 2 screws on the right and left side of the control panel.
Fold the control panel to the rear.
Unplug the lid switch.
Remove the brass colored "S" clips.
Pull the cabinet forward to remove iy from the washer frame.
Re-align your rear framework and replace the screws.
Reverse the order above to attach the cabinet.
The bottom front of the cabinet slides ubder the front cross brace on the frame.

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

  • steve
    steve Aug 29, 2010

    Copy and paste this link to the Factory Service manual.
    https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/Sr...$FILE/L-55.pdf

  • greatauk Aug 31, 2010

    My father in law was able to fix the machine by placing it on its face (front panel) and getting everything aligned that way. Thank you all for your help.

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How do i remove the front cover of the hp 9800 desktop computer


Hello,

Make sure you have disconnected all the cables from the back of your desktop then remove the 2 screws at the back which hold the side panel in place and slide the side panel towards the back and remove it, you should see 3 or 4 tabs on either side of the front cover, press those in and gently pull the cover forward but be careful not to pull too hard as there will likely be cables connected to it.

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Layman?s Instructions to replace the transfer belt for a Samsung CLX-6200FX...


Intro: This is a fairly difficult task, so really make sure you want to do this first. Factor in the cost of the transfer belt(maybe $25 dollars off of Ebay??) and it's not such a good deal. Anyway, for the DIYer diehards, keep reading.Necessary equipment:1. Number 2 philips screwdriver and a really small flathead screwdriver2. Disposable gloves3. 12 inch strip of cardboard or plastic4. Vacuum cleaner5. Spring hook removal tool (can made a simple one with a pair of pliers and a paper clip)
Disassembly: 1. Place the transfer belt assembly down on a table, so that the paper belt drive is on your right side. Remove the paper drive belt assembly by removing the three bright screws that hold it in place.
2. Turn the whole thing over and remove the rubber roller at the bottom. This is done by first carefully remove the spring that hold one of the plastic end in place. Choose the end that has the metal grounding tab on it. Be really careful to not damage the plastic tabs that hold the spring ends. The grounding tab must be pulled up slightly in order to go over a plastic nub before you can slide the plastic end off. Don't pull the metal too hard, or it will be permanently deformed. Place these parts to one side. The metal ends of the rubber roller have a little bit of grease on it, so just leave it there.
3. Flip the transfer belt assembly back over and on the right side, there is a protruding piece of plastic that has an electrical connector attached to the end of it. It's held in place by two black screws. Remove those two screws and the assembly will now hang there by the wires.
4. Remove the top plastic piece (covers the green release lever). There are four black screws that hold this in, two screws on each side. The part will dangle because it is connected by the same wires that connect to the piece in step 3.
5. With the removal of the part in step 4, the green release lever assembly is completely exposed. There are two springs (one on each side) that pull the plastic ends of the release assembly to its normal position. These springs need to be carefully removed. The spring hook removal tool is handy here. Finally, there is a holding tab on each of these end pieces, which needs to be carefully pulled up about 2 mm or so and then the end will slide off the metal bar. Don't lift up on the tabs too much or they will break off.
6. There are 4 bright screws that hold the excess toner tank. (This is the big piece of plastic with ribs, that the paper belt drive assembly was attached to. This tank will now come off, since the part in step 4 has been removed. The tank will be full of excess toner, so have the vacuum cleaner handle to clean up the mess. Shake the toner out into a garbage can.
7.
Underneath the excess toner tank is a scraper/cleaner bar. Two bright screws hold the bar in place. Take care to not deform the metal grounding tab that grounds the bar during operation.
8.
Take the left side plastic panel off now. There are 4 black screws that hold it in place. It should come free. If something is holding it in place, then you probably skipped step 5 and didn't remove the green release level assembly yet.
9.
There is a round rod which will come loose as soon as the left side panel is removed. This round bar works with the scraper to clean the excess toner from the transfer belt. Note that one end of the round bar has been machined to have a smaller diameter. That end goes toward the left side plastic panel. Put the round rod aside for now.
10. There are two round rollers on the top and bottom of the transfer belt assembly that are used to stretch the belt. The bigger round roller is spring loaded to provide the tension needed to keep the belt flat during operation. Using a small flathead screwdriver, carefully remove the compression spring (hidden under the left side plastic panel earlier) so as to release the tension from the belt.
11. Put your gloves on now, because in the following steps, foam rollers will be exposed and it's best not to get body oils on them.
12. There is still tension on the belt because there's a compression spring on the other end of the big round roller, but that's okay. Now, press on the plastic end piece that holds onto the roller to completely release all tension on the belt. The belt will now slide off. It won't come off easily since it's a tight fit. Just work at it and it will come out. Note, one side of the belt has a rubber track inside of it. That's the orientation that the new belt must go back in on.
13.
With the old belt removed, the inside of the transfer belt assembly is now completely exposed. Vacuum the excess toner dust.
Reassembly:
14.
Note where the round bar that pressed against the scraper should be. There are pieces of plastic protruding here which will damage the new transfer belt as it is being put into place. Cover these protruding points with a strip of cardboard, 12 inches long and about 1-2inches in width.
15. Now, holding everything in your lap and with the right side down, press on the end piece of the big roller as before, so that it is possible to slide the new belt down into place. Take your time, and it will finally get into place. Try your best to not fold the transfer belt material in any way. You will know the belt is in place when the rubber inside track goes into the groove of the black plastic roller at the near end of the big roller.
16. Put the compression spring that pushed the end of the big roller back into place.
17.
Slide the round bar approximately now where it should go. Remove the protective strip and position and push the bar end into the brass bushing. Remember, the machined end of this round bar should be aligned so that it clears the inner rubber track of the belt. I put a drop of light machine oil on the brass bushing, but I don't know if was really necessary.
18. Carefully put the left side panel back into place, noting that the smaller roller end and the round bar have to aligned properly before the panel will slide into place. Again, I put one drop of light machine oil on each brass bushing just before putting it all together. Four black screws are used to hold the panel in place.
19.
Put the scraper bar back into place using two of the bright screws. Note, the metal tab on one end should be pressing against the bar, making electrical contact when it is in properly.
20. Put the excess toner tank back into place, using4 black screws.
21. Return the green release lever assembly pieces back into place, basically performing the earlier steps in reverse. First position the lever bar in place, then slide the ends back on. The retaining tabs should click and the ends will be locked into place again. Putting the springs back into place is easiest with the help of the hook removal tool.
22.
Thread the top plastic piece back over the green lever. You may need to press on the green lever just a bit to get the piece back in and again to align the screw holes. 4 black screws to hold this top plastic piece.
23. Put the electrical connector piece back into place. Note that it hooks over the side panel piece. Route the wires into the proper place, so as to not smash them as the two black screws are used to reattach this piece.
24. Put the rubber roller back into place. Steps are the exact reverse of what it took to take it off.
25. Finally, fasten the paper belt drive assembly back down with the 3 bright screws. Note,this piece hooks into the top plastic piece before it is screwed down. Use a small flathead screwdriver, as needed,to make sure the grounding tabs are not messed up as the assembly is put back into place.

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This advice is on how to replace the drive belt on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite front loader washing machines. To replace the drive belt on a Whirlpool Duet washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn the washing machine around so you can access the back panel. Remove the rear panel by locating and loosening the screws around the perimeter of the panel.

2. Loop the drive belt on the drive motor pulley with the ribbed side on the pulley. Leave a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the pulley.

3. Take both hands and pull straight up on the belt and place on the drum pulley beginning on the left hand side.

4. Hold the belt firmly in place and slowly turn the drum pulley to the right while holding the belt in place. The belt will eventually align and hold in place on the drum pulley.

NOTE: This may require some effort to get the belt in place.

If you have any questions, or are uncertain if these steps apply to your washer (some newer model Maytag front loaders are now manufactured by Whirlpool) please provide me with a model number and I can let you know if these steps apply. I hope this information is helpful.

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A new battery on my 250 aquilla and it still goes flat after a day or so. I put a multimeter on the terminals while engine running and it;s hardly showing a charge the readout flucktuates thinking its the...



»
GV250: Removing the Battery:

Since I've done it a couple of times recently, I thought I would put together this quick HowTo.

Remove the seat. You don't necessarily have to but I find it makes it easier.


Using a #3 Phillips head screw driver, loosen the screw holding the chrome piece below the plastic panel in place.

Note: Do not remove the screw, just loosen.



Pull the plastic side panel towards you until the tab comes loose from the slot. There will be resistance because of the tab slot that holds it in place.

Note: do not pull to far towards you as you may damage the tongue below (see Appendix A for visual reference)



Using a 10MM socket wrench or a #3 Phillips head screwdriver (I recommend the 10MM socket wrench) remove the two bolts holding the bracket battery.



Gently pull the battery out and, using a 10MM socket wrench or a #3 Phillips head screwdriver (I recommend the 10MM socket wrench), remove the two terminal bolts.

Note: For the positive terminal, you will need to pull the rubber boot back. It should slide back along the cable.



Tuck the loose terminal cables back in the now empty battery slot and replace the plastic side panel and seat.

Thats it, your done.

Appendix A:
There is a tongue on the plastic side panel that slides into a slot in the chrome below it. Do not put the tongue behind the slot, it must go inside the slot

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To replace a belt on a Frigidaire front loader, follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn the washing machine around so you can access the back panel. Remove the rear panel by locating and loosening the screws around the perimeter of the panel.

2. Loop the drive belt on the drive motor pulley with the ribbed side on the pulley. Leave a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the pulley.

3. Take both hands and pull straight up on the belt and place on the drum pulley beginning on the left hand side.

4. Hold the belt firmly in place and slowly turn the drum pulley to the right while holding the belt in place. The belt will eventually align and hold in place on the drum pulley.

NOTE: This may require some effort to get the belt in place.

If you have any questions, or are uncertain if these steps let me know. I hope this information is helpful.

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This advice is on how to replace the drive belt on Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite front loader washing machines. To replace the drive belt on a Whirlpool Duet washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and turn the washing machine around so you can access the back panel. Remove the rear panel by locating and loosening the screws around the perimeter of the panel.

2. Loop the drive belt on the drive motor pulley with the ribbed side on the pulley. Leave a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the pulley.

3. Take both hands and pull straight up on the belt and place on the drum pulley beginning on the left hand side.

4. Hold the belt firmly in place and slowly turn the drum pulley to the right while holding the belt in place. The belt will eventually align and hold in place on the drum pulley.

NOTE: This may require some effort to get the belt in place.

If you have any questions, or are uncertain if these steps apply to your washer (some newer model Maytag front loaders are now manufactured by Whirlpool) please provide me with a model number and I can let you know if these steps apply. I hope this information is helpful.

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How to replace the belt on a whirlpool duet washer


To replace the drive belt on a Whirlpool Duet washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer and remove the rear panel.

2. Place the drive belt on the drive motor pulley with the ribbed side on the drive motor pulley. Leave a one-groove gap between the belt and the end of the pulley.

3. Take both hands and pull straight up on the belt and place on the drum pulley beginning on the left hand side.

4. Hold the belt firmly in place and slowly turn the pulley to the right while holding the belt in place. The belt will eventually align and hold in place on the drum pulley.

NOTE: This may require some effort to get the belt in place.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Don't forget your wiring if you haven't disconnected it.

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Toaster oven door will not close completely.


This problem is caused by screws being loose or dropping off a limiting bracket on the left side of the oven behind the left outer wall.  This bracket allows the front glass panel to remain OPEN, as required for broiling.
To correct this, first check to see that the two black screws facing forward, behind the left side of the front glass panel are tight.  If not, tighten firmly, but be careful not to overtighten.  If this fails to correct the problem, then follow this procedure.
Purchase 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Pan Head sheet metal screws at your favorite hardware store.  Cost About $1
  1. Unplug the oven and place on a flat work surface. Place a rubber mat or towel under the oven to prevent scratching.
  2. Remove 2- #4 x 1/4" black phillips flat head screws on the left side of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.  These are NOT the screws which hold the bracket, which face forward, but are adjacent to the bracket screws.  Be sure to indentify the proper location of all screws for replacement.
  3. Remove the 4- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws at the bottom of the left side of the oven.  Pry the metal tab of the back panel slightly off the bottom of the black side panel.
  4. Remove the 3- #4 x 3/8" SS phillips pan head screws from the back panel which attaches to the left side black panel.
  5. Carefully pry the bottom of the left black side panel up from the bottom of the oven until it is parallel to the top of the oven.  It will seem hard to pry it upward as you are bending two SS tabs holding the black side panel to the SS top.  It will come up easily once you get it started.  When it is parallel to the top, slide the black side panel to the rear to remove it from the two SS tabs.
  6. You should now see the limiting bracket at the front of the oven's left side.  Remove the 2- black Phillips screws holding the bracket.
  7. Slip the limiting bracket from the oven.  Place on a wood block and with a chisel (or large common screw driver) and hammer, strike the screw holes on the bracket firmly once, so as to close the screw holes slightly.
  8. (OPTIONAL)  If available, using a rat tail file (or small flat file), at the crook of the spring lever, carefully increase the indent of the crook ever so slightly.  This will allow the front glass panel to stop more definitely at the open point.
  9. Remount the bracket using the 2- #4 x 1/2" SS Phillips Head sheet metal screws you bought. Tighten firmly, but do not overtighten.  Check the front glass panel movement. It should have a definite stop to allow the panel to stay open approximately 1/2" for broiling and should close fully, easily.
  10. Slide the left black side panel on to the SS tabs.
  11. Pry the left side black panel down until it meet the bottom plate.
  12. Replace the bottom screws.
  13. Replace the 2- #4 x 1/4" black Phillips flat head screws at the left side of the front of the front glass panel which screw into the black side panel.
  14. Replace the back panel screws.

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2 Answers

Door Latch has broken plastic tab


The door latch assembly comes as one piece. It would actually be much simpler to purchase the new latch and replace the whole assembly instead of trying to put pieces and parts back inside a latch that may or may not work after all your hard effort. If you decide to replace the latch, follow these steps: 1. Unplug the machine. 2. Remove the lower kick plate panel if you like (this can help you reach the latch from a couple of different angles). 3. Open door and feel around the rubber door boot for a wire hoop. At the bottom of the door open is a tension spring. Pull the spring apart and remove the wire hoop from the groove. 4. Gently lift the rubber boot from the groove around the door opening and push inside the machine so you can access the inside of the casing. 5. The door latch assembly is located inside the case on the right-hand side. There should be a couple of wire connectors going to it (remember how they come off). Be careful with the wires, they are small and can break. 6. Unplug the wire connectors and remove the three screws holding the latch in place from the outside of the casing. 7. There should also be a plastic retainer holding the latch in place. Remove latch from retainer. 8. Install new door latch by placing it in the plastic retainer, first. 9. Plug wires connectors in. 10. Re-install the three door latch screws. 11. Re-install rubber door boot around the door opening. Make sure it is properly seated in the groove. 12. Reinsert wire hoop. starting at the top of the door opening, carefully push the wire hoop into the groove and work your way all the way around the bottom where the tension spring would be. (A second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in replace would be handy at this point). 13. Pull tension spring apart and snap into groove. Done. Hopefully this will take care of your problems. Of course, you may not like the idea of having to purchase a whole new door latch assembly, or the effort required to remove and replace. But, it sure beats trying to rebuild the old one. I hope this helps.

Jun 10, 2007 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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