My power for the sparkplug is supplied bya magneto setup similar to a mower. What baffles me is that it has a start and stop switch one end of which is connected to the condenser then other end follows the sparkplug lead for a short distance and was then cut off? where should that have gone?Earth? so engine would stop if switched to that side?.My engine is an early Valmet single cylinder 2 stroke engine if that helps any?
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be sure the amp is located in a well ventilated area as heat build up can cause a safety override to cut power once temp. reaches a certain point. amps do generate heat though so if you dont think its cutting out due to excessive heat building up, i'd definitely get a power capacitor to help keep a steady supply of electrical energy available for instances where the bass hits really hard or for prolonged periods of time. if you have a power cap already make sure it doesnt need to be upgraded to function properly. hope this helps!
the diagram is supplied with the camera. if not, find the connectors that the camera uses to send the tv signal. find the model number of camera and setup the power connections and route the signal cable to your tv or server or recorder. setup the power cable and connect it to your power source. provide more information about your setup.
Yes it can be done. This doesnt mean that it should be done. First thing is finding a power supply to supply power to the unit. you would need to find the size of the fuses on the amp and finf a power supply to feed that power. All home theater systems have built in amps on them. It would be much simpler to find a home theater system to fit your need. However if you insist on this setup remember to find proper power supplies and wire the system with the proper gauge wire for the amp draw. No sense in burning down the house over it.
you have blown the actual filters that make the sound. a amp is basically a filter with the same filters on both channels on each side of the inside of the amp - channel 1 and channel 2, that pop was in the heat sinks of the amp usually. if you have replaced the fuse in this amp and you get no on light, the internal amp is in need of repair
Do you have anything plugged into the "REM +" slot on the power side of the amp? You need either a signal from a Stereo head unit or another power source to get the amp to actually turn on. If you are using a switched setup for the amp, you can make a little jumper from the Batt+ to the REM+. It doesn;t draw anything significant, it just needs power to signal the amp to turn on. If you aren;t using a headunit, make sure that you wire in a switch inline between ther power source and the REM+ port on the amp, otherwise, the amp will be on all the time.
This is a sign the you have poor voltage regulation. Which may mean that you are taxing the electrical system of your vehicle. I would suggest you adding a secondary electrical supply for you audio system. This can be done by adding an extra alternator and voltage regulator and battery supply. This will allow you to drive your audio system without having it (power supply) split between the vehicle and the audio system. The fact is your system is drawing to much current for the unit and your vehicle. You are blowing the 20-amp fuses which means the the amp is creating a currnet draw which is past the rated value of the fuses, which if done too many times could damage the power amp components in the unit. I would also check the ohmage reating on the speakers connect to the unit since you may have the wrong impedance which may also cause excessive current draw and actuate some sort of overcurrent protection.