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I have a whirpool dryer model LG5801XSWS GAS VALVE WON"T OPEN. TRIED A NEW IGNITOR. STILL WON"T IGNITE. HAVE POWER ACROSS LIMIT SWITCH PLEASE ADVISE

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  • Whirlpool Master
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Hi,
The next thing then would be the gas valve... it is rare but does happen that it goes bad...

heatman101

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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Heater will not ignite


  1. Do you have a standing pilot style heater = Milivolt
  2. or is it an IID = Spark style ignitor
  3. Or... Hot surface Ignitor = glows red hot like an auto cigarette lighter?

Most common problem I have come across over the last few weeks, is pressure switch not closing, meaning - dirty filter. Try cleaning your filter: backwash or rinse cartridges.

  1. is pilot staying on, and burning well?
    1. If so, is htr's gas valve in ON position?
  2. Do you hear sparking?
    1. If No, then one of the safety switches is keeping heater from firing...
      1. Toggle switch - on/off
      2. Thermostat - turned up high?
      3. Pressure switch - closes circuit when pump comes on
      4. 2 each high limits
      5. Fusible link / roll out switch
    2. If yes, either gas valve is off, is bad or the Ignition module is bad? Some call it grey box.
      1. You will need to test for voltage at the common and MV posts of the gas valve - 24 to 28 volts. If voltage = bad gas valve; if no voltage = bad IID Module (Intermittent Ignition Device)
  3. Do you see a bright red glow in the burner tray area?
    1. If yes, either fuel supply is off, or Ignitor has worn out and the glow is not hot enough to ignite raw fuel.
    2. If no, check voltage at Ignitor - depends on make and model of heater- could be as low as 24 volts and as much as 110 volts. So... No voltage at the supply wires = bad sending component, again depend on brand and model, could be ignition module, could be circuit board?
    3. If yes voltage, bad Ignitor
      1. Again, this is if fuel supply is confirmed.
Good Luck

May 08, 2015 | Teledyne Laars Laars Lite 2 Pool Heater...

1 Answer

Drum rotates no heat,igniter dosent start


While the drum is rotating you should hear the CLICK associated with the gas valve assembly powering up to give out a blast of heat. If ya don't hear no click check the duct fuse. Right next to the control thermostat. If it is blown it kills the circuit to the gas valve assembly. If that fuse is good and the control is also good, then check the flame sensor for continuity, If it is open then the ignitor won't glow. The ignitor must glow and change in resistance then the flame sensor must open up and kill power to the ignitor so that power will be shifted to them coils on the gas valve.

Sep 03, 2011 | Maytag MDG2706A Gas Dryer

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore 97284810. I t was working fine until we had a power outage. Now is runs and spins but it will not heat up. The glow bar was not glowing so I replaced it. The glow bar is still not glowing....


Might be the flame sensor. if it is open the ignitor won't light off. Check this part
for continuity. Number 59. If it is open now power can get to the gas assembly. Clean out the duct work and filter housing if that puppy is blown.
themobilian_2861.jpg
When the drum temp is below 105f the control Klixon throws the power onto the gas valve assembly. The flame sensor,ignitor, and solenoids are all powered up at the same time but the solenoids won't kick in until the ignitor drops out. The flame sensor bi-metal bends with the heat from the ignitor and open the circuit to it. The solenoids then have the power to ****** open the gas valve and raw gas flows out onto the hot ignitor and lights off. The burn last only till the drum temp reaches 160f which takes not time. When that temp gets to 160 the control opens and power is removed from the gas valve assembly. This goes on throughout the drying process. So what goes wrong? Open sensor, bad ignitor, faulty solenoids that quit after working a tiny bit. Blown or tripped thermal limit. bad control tstat. And me fave: unpaid gas bill.

themobilian_2863.jpg

Aug 20, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

The water heater red light keeps flashing rapidly on my Powervent 2 model 41VRP40N. It is not producing hot water and when I read the manual it says it needs more heat. What does this mean. How do I fix...


There are many things to check. The single most important test is for 24V at the gas valve after the ignitor is supposed tp be on. 19 V or less and there is either a bad ground or the ingition control board has failed. (Wire ground problems are a high probablilty)

Here is what the book says:

PROBLEM #1 - HOT SURFACE IGNITOR DOES NOT GLOW RED

(Remember to wait for purge time, 17/34 seconds, on models so equipped).

Possible causes

A. No main power

B. Faulty transformer

C. Faulty thermostat

D. Faulty limit switch

E. Faulty blower interlock switch

F. Faulty hot surface ignitor

G. Faulty ignition control

Solution

Step #1

Perform normal system checks of main power, transformer, thermostat, limit

switch, blower interlock switch, and replace faulty component.

Step #2

With power on and thermostat set at its highest position, check voltage

between "TH" and "TR" on HS780 ignition control. If 24 volts is not present

check output at transformer. If no, replace transformer. If transformer

checks out OK look at other controls in the 24 volt circuit I.E.: thermostat,

limit switch, blower interlock switch. Check for 120 volts between "neut"

(L2) and "120" (L1). Check for 120 volts at the ignitor across "IGN" and

"IGN" terminals on the HS780 ignition module. If 120 volts is present,
replace ignitor. If no, replace the 780 series module

PROBLEM #2 - IGNITOR GLOWS RED BUT MAIN BURNER

WOULDN'T LIGHT

Possible causes

A. Improper ignitor alignment

B. Faulty ignition control

C. Faulty gas valve

D. High inlet gas pressure

E. Polarity reversed

F. No earth ground

Solution

Step #1

Check for availability of gas at gas valve. Make sure the manual valve

upstream of the gas valve and the gas valve are in the full on position. Also

make sure gas is being supplied to the system at the proper pressure, too

high will lock-up the valve.

Step #2

Check proper polarity of "NEUT" and "120" on the ignition control by reversing

the wires, if reversed gas valve will not open. If this does not solve the

problem, replace wires as they were.

Step #3

Check for proper ignitor position.

Step #4

Check for a good earth ground by using a meter connected between L1

and furnace chassis. Should read 120 volts, if no, check and/or repair ignition
ground wire or ignition control mounting screws.
CAUTION POLARITY MUST BE OBSERVED

Step #5

Check for 24 volts at the gas valve terminals; "1" and "2" on a 7200 series,

"M" and "C" on a 7100 series, "TH" and "TR" on a 7000 series. If yes,

check wire integrity or change the gas valve. If no, change the 780 series
ignition module.

That is pretty much all of the troubleshooting required.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 14, 2011 | Rheem 40 Gallon FVR NATGAS Low WATER...

1 Answer

Our Maytag model dg410 quit ingniting. Is it ignitor or something else?


Power from the control Klixon mounted on the blower housing energizes the gas valve assembly when the temp is below 105f and the dryer is set for heat. If that control is open then no power is applied and no heat. If a restriction causes the dryer to exceed 350 for some reason then the fuse next to the control Klixon melts. No power will get to the gas assembly but the dryer will run. On that gas assembly is an ignitor/flame detect sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of solenoids that open the gas valve. The flame sensor must have continuity. If it is open then no power will get to the ignitor. If the ignitor is broken you will also have nothing. The coils will not open the valve without a change in the resistance of the circuit. One of them coils has 3 wires and the other has 2. The sequence of gas valve operation is the flame sensor bi-metal has to open when the temp exceeds 1800f. this kills the power to the ignitor and flips the 3 wire coil so that the ignitor is now a thermocouple and the coils will yank open the gas valve. As long as that ignitor stays hot then the gas will continue to flow out the valve. If for some off reason the gas were not to ignite the ignitor would coold down and shut off the gas and that is your builtin safety. So what goes wrong? Blown thermal fuse, open control Klixon, open flame detect/sensor, open ignitor, or Intermittent coils,(the coils will get hot and quit with age.
themobilian_514.jpgthemobilian_516.jpgthemobilian_515.jpg

Maytag dryer service manual and more HERE

Dec 20, 2010 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

No Heat


Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Goodman GMP075-3 ignition problem


OK, if the furnace is not lighting for even a few seconds, you have either a bad gas valve, bad wire, bad control module or no gas. The pressure switch is not the issue. Check all wires to the gas valve and look for 24 volts across them when the ignitor glows and you hear the click. Then test for 24 volts to ground. It could be a bad ground wire.

Sep 28, 2008 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Whirlpool Gas Dryer


Yes, that is most likely the problem. Once the glow bar igniter glows so hot, the switch opens & drops power to the igniter.(The radiant sensor has continuity while cold & open when a flame is present.) At the same time, by opening it redirects power to the valve coils allowing them to open & gas flow to the burner assembly. The dying glow of the igniter fires the gas. However, if your igniter glows, the radiant sensor is good. In this case, you'd need to replace the gas valve solenoids.

Aug 01, 2007 | Whirlpool LGR5644J Gas Dryer

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