Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Opening the lid on a Kennmore 80 Series 110.22892 101 to replace or resecure lid switch. Switch is working but the plastic sync that hold the screws cracked.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 series lid switch

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosned, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Nov 02, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore ultra fabric care I washer; 80 series- lid switch needs replaced

This is a very easy problem that you can repair yourself. The following link explains in detail how to replace a lid switch such as yours:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

A replacement switch can be purchased on line at any of the following sources:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

All three sites offer great service and have competitive pricing. So, shop all three for the best price. Just use your COMPLETE model number (usually located under the washer lid along the tub rim) to begin your search criteria. If you do not wish to order on line, use the part number provided by the Sears website and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. Yes, this a part that they should carry in their inventory.

If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

Mx Man
  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: kennmore washer fills and does nothing

Normally, if you can push the lid switch down and hear it click and still nothing happens, the lid switch is not your problem. If, however, it DOES start working, the problem is that the mounting holes have probably cracked and your entire lid switch is being pushed down instead of just the tab on the switch. Try pushing it down manually and moving your timer to different areas (like drain) and see if it will work then. It really does sound like a lid switch problem.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: HOW DO I BYPASS KENMORE SERIES 80 LID SWITCH

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.


Posted on Jun 08, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: washer stops after the rinse cycle --won't empty

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.22892100&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Four possibilities: (Ranging from easiest to messiest) None of the suggestions are very expensive.


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


If you've tested the Lid Switch and the Motor Coupler is fine, and the clutch bands and springs are OK the problem could well be the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for transmission operations on top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

When ours had a similar problem, we looked at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) and noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.


Posted on Jul 20, 2010

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1 Answer

Does anyone know what would cause my kenmore 80 series stops mid cycle with water still in it just at the rinse cycle and how to fix it?


Could be a possible problem with your lid switch. It probably thinks your lid is still up. Another poster commented that sometimes the screws holding the lid get loose and do not allow everything to line up properly, so check those. If it is the switch you may have to partially dis-assemble the washer to get to the switch. It normally has two screws that hold it to the washer top and you would need to remove those. Sometimes the only problem is the switch has split in half at the glue line and I have been successful at putting a plastic zip tie around the switch and putting it back in and the machine worked fine. Hope this helps!

Feb 11, 2015 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

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Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or if the washer fills then stops, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If the switch is not activated by a lid strike, it will activated by a hinge actuator located next to either the left or right lid hinge. You will need to remove the operator console in order to access this type of switch.

NOTE: On this type of lid switch the lid hinge has a small rod that is used as an acutator to toggle the switch. In many cases, you can adjust the rod by bending it if the switch is not making contact.

If you determine the switch to be defective, a replacement can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, that usually costs about $25 to $35 to repair yourself. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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I would recommend checking your lid switch. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the washer casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located under the operator console.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to access the washer interior and replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com.

If you need further assistance, please post back with a complete model number so that I may be able to assist you better. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you have questions, or my advice does not match your symptoms, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

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1 Answer

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The symptoms you describe are typical of a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually located on the right hand side under the cabinet. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the right side of the wash tub opening. Make sure the lid strike is still on the lid and intact, first. Then, check the mounting screws that hold the lid switch in place (two screws along the tub rim on the right hand side). Often all that is required is to tighten up the mounting screws and this will realign the lid switch where it can be properly activated by the lid strike. If the lid switch is broken, you can find a replacement at searspartsdirect.com. Select "Search by Part Number" and enter the following part numbers: The lid switch is part #3949238 and the lid strike is part #350733. If you do not wish to order online, take the part numbers provided by Sears and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. These are common parts that most will carry in their store inventory. The following link explains how to replace the switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a very inexpensive repair that you can easily accomplish on your own. I hope you find this information helpful. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.

PS This is a common problem experienced by this line of washing machines. To prevent future failures, do not slam the washer lid or place anything heavy on the lid. Repeatedly slamming the lid to get it to work, or manipulating the timer can can more potential problems.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like you have a lid switch malfunction. The switch may be loose or not making good contact. As you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it.

Replacement parts can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number as "110.22832100" and the lid switch will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part #3949238). The lid strike is listed as item 20 (part #350733). You may also check repairclinic.com. They carry the SAME parts and sometimes offer a better price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple and inexpensive repair if you wish to accomplish this on your own. This total repair will cost you a little more than $40. Let me know if you suspect you have other problems. Sometimes the timer can cause certain segments of the wash cycle not to work as well, but this generally is a bit more expensive, and not as common. The lid switch is a more common problem, because of the repeated use it gets while opening and closing the lid. The switch just simply wears out. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

My kenmore 80 series (top load) washing machine fills up with water but won't spin nor agitate.


The symptoms you describe are often caused by a lid switch malfunction. It may be loose or not making good contact. If you open and close the lid, you should hear a "clicking" sound as the lid switch is activated. If you do not hear the switch, check to make sure the lid strike in still intact. This is a small plastic piece mounted on the lid that pushes down on the switch through a slot on the wash tub opening on the right hand side. If this piece breaks off, it will give the same symptoms of a broken lid switch. Next, check the two mounting screws on the right side of the wash tub opening to make sure they are tight. These are the mounting screws for the lid switch. Sometimes they come loose and the switch does not make proper contact. If you attempt all these preliminaries, and the switch still does not seem to be working properly, replace it. A replacement can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and the part will be located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, click on the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

This is a simple and inexpensive repair. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you require further assistance.

Aug 13, 2008 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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