Wife was changing the lower light bulb above the range , when the old burned out bulb broke in her hand , and must have still had power to it , and now the oven will not kick on, however the timer and clock does come on and even counts down as if it is working , pulled ceramic fuse under upper cover and then check out , and the board would not even turn on timer
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Re: roper above the range
We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.
This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller.
This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too.
Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
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follow this steps and use the VOM for fix it. God bless you
If the microwave light bulb is not working it
is usually located behind the upper grille and behind an access panel,
and above the lower panel. On counter top units you will need to remove
the outer cover to get to the bulb. If that doesn't solve the problem
check the on-off switch, and control board
Main Control Board
If the microwave light bulb is not working
check the light bulbs, sockets and wiring. If they are good the main
control board might be defective.
Light Bulb Socket
If the microwave light bulb is not working
and a new light bulb doesn't solve the problem, the light bulb socket
might be burned out and need to be replaced.
Since you obviously intend replacing the bulb yourself (good for you!) you should first remove the old bulb and that will make it easier to find a new one. Chances are, its a common bulb, readily available wherever light bulbs are sold. Or, at the very least, a hardware store like Tru-Value or Home Base.
had the same problem (self induced) and shorted out the oven. took the control board out and found i had burned the circuit between the connector and high/low light microswitch. just jumped the circuit with a piece of solder, reinstalled the board and the fan and light started working. it doesn't have a low light setting anymore but who cares, just saved 130 bucks. not going to tell my wife how i broke it, only how i fixed it. very proud of myself and learned a little bit, mainly unplug the unit before working on it.
is the microwave itself working? because same thing happened to us apparently the guy who changed the bulb didnt unplugg the thing first and well it burned a part of the circut board cost us about 90 dollars to fix it.....
We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is on the control panel, which
we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid.
This light failure often occurs when a bulb goes out and the filament
shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first
unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a
failure on the controller.
This can often also affect the exhaust fan operation, too. The lights and fan can be inoperable or stuck on too, due to a shorted relay.
Details of our service and critical safety information and disassembly information is at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Are any other bulbs in the home going out prematurely? If so, I would check the actual voltage of your power outlets.
If not, the bulbs may be getting grease or debris on them from stovetop cooking. This can cause hot psots and premature failure.
I recommend wiping them clean with alcohol on a cloth before installing them.
I recommend that folks always have their hood fan on when cooking on the stovetop.
Also, you might check with a local home center (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.) to see if they have some high-quality (non-Chinese) substitutes.
That does sound odd!
On one hand, I would suspect that maybe the door is getting slammed and that vibration may be contributing to the failure.
But that would be much more likely for an incandescent bulb than a fluorescent type. Which is yours?
You may have a bad connection on the socket which is causing some excess heat. Does the blown bulb look funny on the ends or at the connection?
Assuming you're using the bulb your manual calls for, and the socket is okay, it may be a problem on the control board.
Once you've digested this reply, let me know what you find and we can take it from there.