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Ice build up in refrigerator. Not cooling - Refrigerators

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Fault in the auto defrost section. shut off the fridge and defrost , check onthe thermostat , faulty lines wire breaks due to frost. if not trace the wires to the auto defrost timer. check the heater continuity/resistance. When the fridge is started back check the timer and see if the auto defrost works. If not check thermostat and the timerr contacts or if it is running. if not replace.

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Hidden Ice build-up inside plastic bottom cover of freezer

Generally, icing is the result of too much water vapor inside the unit, blockage of the circulation channels and too much packing in of the box.  The water vapor is generally caused by: uncapped items in the fridge, opening the door too often, humid conditions, bad door seals.  There is of course, there is a possibility that the defrost cycle on the unit is not working.  About once a day, depending on the brand, you should notice that the fans and compressor don't run and you should hear a bit of creaking, sloshing or other strange noises as the ice melts.  If this is not happening, your defrost timer or the coil it heats could be bad.

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: GE side by side GSS20IEP Refrigerator freezer freezing

this is a problem that is no stranger to most GE side by sides; GE has used a glass type defrost heater in the freezer which often fails. If you manually defrost your appliance (unplug and leave doors open for 24 hrs) then plug back in, it will appear to work normally for a few days and gradually build up frost on the evap panel (back panel in the freezer) and eventually the refrigerator side will seem to loose cooling due to frosted damper, or lack of cold air transfer over the evap coil. The fix for this is to replace the defrost heaters (s). While not as common, defrost thermostats can open causing the unit to skip defrost, and even less likely is the defrost control (either mechanical timer or adaptive defrost). First, defrost your appliance, then remove the evap panel and ohm out the heater(s), if open, replace. If they check ok, check your defrost thermostat (small disc like object attached by a clip on the evap. coil itself) for signs of popping open or open ohm readings at normally closed temperatures. Its a good idea to change this anyway when replacing defrost heaters as the two work hand in hand. Last, check the defrost timer by manually advancing the screw advance clockwise until you hear the first click, then check voltage to the defrost heater and thermostat, if no voltage present replace timer. If your appliance is equipped with a adaptive defrost board, refer to the schematic for proper diagnostics.

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

jmeredith
  • 417 Answers

SOURCE: Frost build up...refrigerator not cooling

hi,
your condenser fan may have gotten stopped up with ice. You can try to open the freezer door and push the door buttons while the compressor is running and you should be able to hear the fan running in the freezer compartment. If not you can try to completely defrost the machine by unplugging it and letting it sit for a day, you can speed that up by putting a hair dryer on low and point it at the cold air outlets. If it does it the next day you can pull the condenser fan. usually the whole back plate in the freezer has to come out and then the fan is right there. try spinning the blades by hand , should turn easy, you can try oiling it but it should be replaced, you can order it at the appliance store, take it with you. be careful while you have that inner cover off as the coils are sharp and fragile.
good luck
J

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: running but not cooling

Pull the refrig out , unplug , and on the back , remove the 8 " X 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . On this board , you will see a blue plug ,with 3 larger wires going to it , which you need to unplug .
You will need a short piece of insulated wire , with both ends stripped about 1/4 inch .
Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 wire2 space wire3 . With the piece of wire , insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other end into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in . Looking in the freezer section , behind the crisper , after about 1 min , you should see a " red " glow .
If no red glow , this means your defrost heater AND bimetal need to be replaced . Unplug the refrig , remove jumper wire , and plug the blue receptical , back onto the board . Reinstall the panel .
To replace these , remove the food in the freezer , and remove the inside freezer panel ( 4 screws hold this panel on ) , and the heater is below the coils ( 2 screws ) , and the bimetal is clipped on the top of the coils , a 1 " cylinder , with a pink and blue wire going to it .
Part number for the heater WR

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: Subzero freezer has frost/ice build up on the

Check the fan and readjust temperature control to higher. Thanks.

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

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1 Answer

Whirlpool gold refrigerator is not cooling ice build up in freezer. Water on bottom of refrigerator.


Too much build of ice in freezer will not cooled the refrigerator side, you need to defrost the fridge. Set it to proper temp setting, just enough to have ice on the freezer and also remove water on the bottom.
Thanks for asking.

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I have just defrosted the lower half of my fridge freezer as it built up a big ice block at the back? i put the theromastat on 3 and ice is has started to build up again on the back of fridge


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Some ice build up is normal, but it should go away when the unit defrosts...if it continues to build then the defrost is not working correctly...
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Check the fan and readjust temperature control to higher. Thanks.

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The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
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It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

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