Question about McCulloch Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Watch the video, bar far the best method I have found.
Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com
• The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
• If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
• The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.
Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly.
Posted on May 10, 2010
SOURCE: Ryobi chainsaw magneto gap
The gap needs to be as narrow as possible without any actual rubbing of the rotor against the magneto. The spacing is not as critical as with spark plugs or points (remember them?) since unlike those gaps there is no spark jumping across this gap.
Generally, as long as the magnetic field is strong enough, the magneto will produce the necessary spark at the spark plug. The closer the magnets are to the coil, the stronger the magnetic field will be across the coil, and therefore the stronger and hotter the spark.
I have replaced magnetos and they are simple to install, and almost impossible to mess up if you do it this way. All you need is a piece of thin cardboard (not corrugated). I use a glossy business card without raised lettering (so it slides easily), or the like.
1) Rotate the flywheel so that the magnets are NOT positioned in front of the magneto, then loosen both screws of the magneto so it can move freely.
2) Insert the business card between the magneto and the flywheel such that the glossy side of the business card faces the rotor.
3) Then BEND the business card back over each side of the magneto (in other words away from the flywheel) so it stays fixed and can not move from side to side when you rotate the rotor.
4) Then while pinching the magneto and ends of the business card tight between your fingers, rotate the flywheel to position the magnets directly in line with the two sides of the magneto.
Note: The magnets will grab the magneto and try to move it. As long as the slippery side of the business card is facing the rotor and you haven't removed the screws, it should move fairly easily.
Since the magnets want to pull tight to the magneto, but the business card thickness is the same across the entire surface, this gives you an even spacing between both sides of the magneto and the rotor. Essentially, the magnets on the rotor do all the work for you. with regard to alignment. As long as the magnets (flat shiny polished square surfaces on the outer rim of the rotor) align directly with the two faces of the magneto, the alignment is automatic.
5) Once you have the magneto and rotor in perfect alignment, cinch down both screws in an alternating method, first just to where they start to grab, and then back and forth a few times until they are firmly tightened.
6) Now, unfold the flaps of the business card and let it move with the rotor instead. You should be able to rotate the rotor away from the magneto and the business card should slip out easily. It may stay where it was or it may slide out from the magneto - either way will work.
7) Once past the magnets, the business card should come out. You may have to move the rotor back and forth gently a few times to get it to come free. When you are done, the magneto should be in perfect alignment with the face of the rotor and the rotor should spin freely without any rubbing.
8) Confirm the above and then reassemble and go cut some trees.
Posted on Jun 01, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank-you very much, just as I suspected - had not come up with of an alternative to the feeler gauge so that was most helpful."
Remove the spark plug and test for blue, snappy spark. If nothing, try a new plug set for 0.020" gap. If still nothing, remove the cover from the flywheel side to expose the ignition module. Remove the ignition switch wire from the module and try for spark again--if ok, check for a grounded ignition switch or the wire itself. If still nothing, replace the ignition module. Use a thin business card for a pole gap between the module and the flywheel magnets. Allow the module poles to contact the magnets, then tighten the screws. Rotate the flywheel to remove the card. If you got spark in the first test, then place some fuel mix in the plug hole and try to start. You should get several pops. If ok, then work on the fuel system. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Make sure the carburetor fasteners are tight. If the machine is fairly old, you should check the condition of the lower chamber diaphragm in the carburetor--it may have become hard or cracked. Hope some of this helps!
Posted on Jul 01, 2010
Are you sure you have conected the pipes the correct way round, the fuel hose from the tank with the filter on the end goes to the main fuel inlet on the carb, nearest to the alloy pump cover, the other conection off the carb goes to the shorter conection on the back of the primer, the longer pipe on the primer goes back to the tank, just remember the primer pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb, and back to the tank.
Posted on May 15, 2011
OK, there are two conections on the back of the primer, the longer conection is the pressure side, so this has a hose back to the fuel tank, it will just push into the tank with nothing on the end, the shorter connection on the primer is the suction side, this pipe will go to the carb, the conection nearest to the metering cover of the carb, usually a chrome cover held with four screws, the other connection on the carb, nearest to the pump cover, usually alluminium held with a single screw, goes to the fuel tank with the fuel filter on the end, just remember the primer pulls fuel from the carb, into the bulb and back into the tank.
Posted on Jul 03, 2011
Testimonial: "Explained well. Thank You"
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