Question about Thermador P364GECS Kitchen Range
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: flashing lights
There is a code sheet that tells you what the problems depending on the sequence of blinking lights, but only the authorized dealers have this information. I do have a copy if you want to email me and I will forward it to you. firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Jun 09, 2008
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. MY OVEN BINKS ONCE FROM BAKE AND TWICE FROM THE OTHER LIGHT. OVEN DOES NOT WORK, ADND WE REPLACE THE CONTROL BOARD ALREADY. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
the lights flashing in a sequence indicates the error code. The error codes indicates what the problem is with your stove. Based on the response to your message, it sounds like their error code is 12, one then two. It is not clear what your error code is.
There is an explanation of the error codes on the wiring diagram that comes with the stove. I found the wiring diagram for my stove taped to the inside of the kick plate. The kick plate had to be removed to find it.
my oven is not working either. the error code I get is 34. I am told by a technician that error code indicates that the computer is not recognizing that the cooling fan is operating, which is why my oven will not work.
When I try and order a new cooling fan from Thermador, the website says that it is temporarily out of stock. Obviously, other people are having the same problem I am.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
SOURCE: oven not heating
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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