Question about Jackson 25 in. TempStar HH Free-standing Dishwasher

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High limit light goes on and unit shuts off about 20 seconds into start of cycle. Disconnected both wash and rinse heater elements problem continues Disconnected white wire at high limit thermostat problem continues disconect white with blue tracer problem continues whacked thermostat with pliers no luck whacked rinse heater thermo with plers no luck relay for rinse heater clacks and unit shuts down

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Well, while I must admit that "Percussive" maintenance, sometimes works, as you have discovered there is more to servicing than, just "Giving it a good whack" lol.
The problems with these units, is usually to do with the Thermostat, and/or the Main Controller Board, the MCB, is prone to "Spikes". "Surges", and mains borne problems.
The first thing to replace should be the Thermostat and or sensor thermistor. Usually we replace the Thermistor, or Temp Sensor, and, try that first, and if no go, then the Thermostat itself, and then if no go, the main Board. I provide you with a parts supplier below. Below that is the Jackson support website to assist you. Please contact them, and ask for a referral to an authorised repair center. Then ask the repair center for a "Quote" for the repair before allowing any work to commence. If you do not wish to DIY.
http://www.whaleyfoodservice.com/jacksonmachineparts.aspx
http://www.jacksonmsc.com/?xhtml=xhtml/jac/us/en/homepage/default.html&xsl=homepage.xsl

However it is my professional recommendation that you call a professional to attend to this matter.


Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Error code e01


do the following steps: God bless you
To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault ? note circulation motor stops shortly after it started during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Jul 21, 2012 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Have a shu 4322 dishwasher it fills with water and drains but the spray arms do not spray. have not tried anything yet.this dishwasher is not hooked up. it was given to me by a friend who replaced all his...


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.


There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.

As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?

I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at macmarkus@live.ca

I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.

To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).

When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone).

Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time.

When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)


To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

i.e.

86c0a8d.jpg

If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.


What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Oct 10, 2010 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Water won't drain


Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
---------
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Aug 27, 2010 | Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Year old Bosch SHU33A0UC won't start. Lights on


Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

Dec 18, 2009 | Bosch 24 in. SHE44C02UC / SHE44C06UC /...

1 Answer

Whirlpool dishwasher DU810CW fills for 20 sec.


well the timer and the float are the only two things that control your fill cycle,
so since your float is correct ie the rinse cycle
we can only assume that it would not be intermiten it is just a cherry switch
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=255697&diagram_id=77498#d77498

here is the link to the part (timer)
and the breakdown of how to get at it

Oct 27, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

The dishwasher has been running for 3 hours and seems to be stuck on 1 minute left. Upon opening, there was sudsy water remaining in the bottom, but the dishes looked clean. The washer just won't go to...


SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

Aug 01, 2009 | Bosch SHU5315UC Dishwasher

1 Answer

Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer


BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Jul 18, 2009 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Clean light will not go out


If the clean light flashes 7 times, pauses, then repeats...

When the dishwasher doesn't sense a water temperature increase, it will stop working and lock the functions (clean light flashes 7 times, all buttons are non responsive). It does this as a safety in case the element is broken and feeding electrical current into the water.

To resolve this you will have to reset the console. Do this by closing the door and press these buttons in sequence...

-high temp wash
-heated dry
-high temp wash
-heated dry

...all the lights will turn on briefly and the machine will start a diagnostic cycle. You can press cancel or let the diagnostic cycle finish (1-2 minutes).
You should now be able to run the dishwasher as normal.

If the issue returns, you could have a problem with the heating circuit (ie. element, thermostat or wiring). It rarely happens but it could also be the door switch not engaging properly when the door is closed (slightly bend the door latch down making sure it doesn't hit the door when you close it).

Feb 04, 2009 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDS01FLBL Built-in...

12 Answers

Clean light keeps blinking and I can't start a new cycle


Puppa, clear the fault by pressing the keys in this order: high temp scrb--air dry--high temp scrub--air dry. Or, depending on your model..Sani rinse--air dry--sani rinse--air dry. The dishwasher will enter the service mode. Let it do it's thing or advance it through it by pressing the start key. The fault came from the board not sensing a rise in the water temp. Make sure to run the hot water before starting the dishwasher. The heating element runs through the nuetral side of the door switch so make sure the d/w is level and the door switches are all making. The element itself could be at fault. Catriver...post back

Apr 01, 2007 | Kenmore 24 in. 15932 Built-in Dishwasher

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