I could not locate a fan switch on the door. However, the fan on the inside of the freezer located at the top is not running and that is where it is warm. Also, on the outside of the freezer below the door is a red alarm light that is on. That is probably just an indicator that there is a problem. Any ideas?
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Check the freezer door gasket! Frost build up along the front edge of the freezer indicates a poor or broken seal. It could also be packaging or plastic bags on top of the freezer getting into the door opening and allowing moist room air into the freezer--make sure nothing on top of the refrigerator is getting into the door or jamming it open.
If the freezer is cold the compressor is Ok. Now if its a two door fridge . Open both the doors while the fridge is On. Press the lower door switch ( the lower light should turn off and you should hear the fan humming sound come on ). While holding the door switch pressed close the freezer door, you should see cold air come out of the slits in the back of the lower compartment. If not icicles have blocked the passages due to the non working of the heating coil.The heating cycle is controlled by the timer switch located near the compressor at the back. Unplug the fridge and remove the timer switch.Note the color of the wires and mark on the old switch. Replace and it will work.Only frost free fridges have heating cycle
The problem is not with the temp control but more with either the evap fan in the freezer section or a heavy frost build up on the back wall toward the bottom section of the freezer. If you have more frost than usual more than likely the defrost t-stat has gone bad which is not a costly repair. The fan you should be able to hear also with the freezer door open. If you do not hear it the fan has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Hope this helps
the inside fan that blows air from freezer to fridge side located on back wall either stuck has build up of ice or some debris is stopping or slowing it down open freezer door and look at back for fan remove cover and or frost covering hold door switch and look and listen to fan if labors or just hums remove and service or replace
This is a problem that the factory has released a bulletin on.They have released new hinges, and insulation for inside the door. So far I've only seen the bulletin for Kenmore upright freezers made by Frigidaire. Since it is a Kenmore the bulletin is a Sears Service Flash but the units are identical. For sears its SF46-517. They may extend the service to Frigidaire units but you'll have to contact Frigidaire about that.
Check the evaporator fan , freezer must have a fan to avoid ice formation, if evaporator does not work, thermic sensor jams up and freezer stop working. The fan is located behind the panel in the freezer.
Check the back of your freezer, If there is frost or ice, then the unit is not defrosting. This is often caused by problems with evaporator system. Sometimes you also need to check the defrost timer, located at the top of the FFC on the Top freezer. Check also the defrost thermostat, which is on the evaporator inside
the freezer. If
it isnt defrosting, change both.
My husband left the freezer door open a couple of months ago, causing ice to form. The loud rattling noise was the fan hitting the ice. The reason why the temperature started to rise but the noise stopped was because the fan had got stuck in a block of ice and was no longer working. Simple solution - defrost the freezer for 24 hours. Touch wood, it is all working fine now!
Your problem could be in the fan switch which is located someplace on the breaker strip around the door. If you push in on the switch and the fan runs the fan is not the problem. If you have frost on the back wall you may have a problem in the defrost system.
IF THERE IS FROST ON THE BACK WALL OF THE FREEZER
INTERIOR, THERE IS A DEFROST FAILURE. EITHER THE
TIMER, HEATER, OR BI-METAL HAS FAILED. IF IT IS THE TIMER, YOU CAN LOCATE IT AND MANUALLY ADVANCE IT WITH THE SMALL KNOB ON ITS FACE. AS YOU ADVANCE IT, YOU WILL HEAR IT CLICK LOUD AND THE COMPRESSOR
WILL STOP RUNNING. WAIT ABOUT 10 MINUTES AND LISTEN IN THE FREEZER FOR SIZZLING OR POPPING. THIS IS A NORMAL NOISE WHEN THE HEATER IS MELTING OFF THE FROST. REPLACE THE TIMER.
IF THERE ISN'T FROST, THE FAN MOTOR OR DOOR SWITCH
HAS FAILED. YOU WOULD NEED TO REMOVE THE BACK
PANEL FROM THE INSIDE OF THE FREEZER TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE FAN MOTOR TO TEST IT. IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AT THE TERMINALS OF THE MOTOR, THE MOTOR IS BAD. IF NO VOLTAGE(120VOLTS AC), CHECK DOOR SWITCH.