Question about Kicker 06ZX750.1 Car Audio Amplifier

1 Answer

Went through the checklist you gave me.

I took your checklist and went over all of it. this is what i found.
the amp is in the same spot as its replacement. it is not hot at all, not even warm at any time.the gain was up pretty high, so i turned it down to a little over half.the wires are both 4 far as i know, the speaker wires are all brand new and i didn't see anything wrong with this is where i get lost lol.the sub is a 4 ohm dvc sub. they are wired in parallel, i took the sub out of the box and looked at the wiring. i did want to know however, if the positive wire going to the terminal on the box has to be from a different coil than where the negative wire goes to to the terminal (positive from coil one and negative from coil 2?) right now they're coming from the same coil.i don't think the battery or alternator are bad because i only upgraded my sub and amp, meaning there was already a combo in my jeep, i just bought a better setup.and i don't have a capacitor. i checked all of this before work this morning and it didn't cut out for the entire drive.when i left work however, it did the protection thing.the only thing i didn't check was the wiring behind the deck.i would need to know what i'm looking for there. thanks for your help so far anyway. worth the ten dollars.

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  • tyler
    tyler May 07, 2008

    i've never changed the battery in my jeep, so it's either the stock chrysler one or just a standard replacement battery.the morning i drove to work, which was about 745 a.m., it pounded and sounded great for the whole ten minute hasn't stayed on longer than 5 minutes other than that one morning.the 750.1 is powering a single kicker comp vx 12 in sub.and yes the birth sheet tested the amp at 880 rms at 2 ohm.the low amp thing sounds like it could be why, because i also have a kicker zx200.2 amp powering the 6.5 polk components in the soundbar. is there a battery that may work that's a tad bit cheaper than optima? or just any battery at least 800 cranking amps?you're helping me very much by the way. thanks.

  • tyler
    tyler May 07, 2008

    well i'll make a trip to walmart after work today and pick up those things you sounds like this could be the problem, considering it cuts out for a few seconds BEFORE it goes into protection, not just shutting off all at once.never hurts to have a new battery anyway..i mean i sent the amp back to kicker a couple weeks ago because it was doing something similar to this, and they said nothing was even wrong with it, so i guess they're not going to lie to me.i'm fresh out of ideas lol..


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Ok... but just remember this AMP is rated 750w x 1 @ 2ohms or 375w x1 @ 4ohms RMS So its a mono driver AMP works great with a single sub.

But I see kicker 750's that put out 850 sometimes 900w RMS
I do recommend using at least a 2 farad CAP and a really good battery like at least 800 cranking amps... I usually use like Yellow or Redtop(Optima) batteries 850-1400 cranking amps for kickers+ a single 2farad cap. What happens is a low amp battery will not provide enough "BAM" to keep the AMP working properly at its required voltage/load.. This is why your AMP is not even getting hot/warm its turning off to prevent "Low-Load damage"

What is the cranking AMPs and what type of battery do you have because kickers without CAPs and great batteries can destroy an Alternator reguardless of your current problem.

You should easily be able to pound your chest open and **** the oxygen out of the cab of the truck with a single sub... and the fact it went into protection mode later in the day... not right when you hopped in the truck in the morning tells me the battery might be the culprit... Not saying buy one but.. they are cheaper than a new alternator lol... and if you do blow your alternator make sure you get a higher rated alternator than recommended for your jeep. I think your wiring up to the AMP is fine... Was that sub hitting in the morning?? did it take your breathe away? What type of speakers and what size?

Posted on May 07, 2008

  • Ronald Tisdale
    Ronald Tisdale May 07, 2008

    Yeah you don't have to have the Oprtima they are pricy.. a good 950 and ^ cranking amp walmart battery will be fine...think the stock jeep battery was like 550-600 cranking amps. So yeah.. and keep your eye out for a 1 or 2 farad CAP nothing fancy but it will keep you from burning up the Alternator.. Taxing the battery and shorting its life... blown fuses at intermidiate times... and surprisingly it keeps the AMP running cooler than mixmatched voltage loads... like when you turn the A/C on or the Headlights this causes drops and spikes in system. Check this out.. been doing this for a few years... get ahold of a PC laptop cooler mat.. they sell em at walmart for like 20 bucks... Cut off the USB at the end... strip the cables back and attach the power cables to the AC power on and ground on AMP... install the cooler mat under the AMP or lay it right on TOP... looks badass too and the Fans kick on when the AMP does too.

    Oh yeah and the Walmart batteries have 3 year walkin warranties... 2 years get a brand new one...and if you say have a 3 year warranty... and its been 4 yrs...6 month.. they will credit like 75% of the price of the old battery to the purchase of a new one.

  • Ronald Tisdale
    Ronald Tisdale May 07, 2008

    Oh yeah the Fixya rating from the premium solution from before is done. So if you click Fiya for this question it's not going to charge you anything..this is the free forums section.. just FYI if you were worried it might. Oh yeah use the contact gel on your battery hookups too you'll only need like the $1 packet from AutoZone but dont use it on the AMP just the battery.


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SOURCE: 2 4ohm dvc subs to a bxi 608 ( 600watt mono)

take the positive on the sub and run a wire to the other positive the run a negative to the other negative then to your pos and neg on the box do the same on the other side then tie your two positives and two neg together and you got 1ohm and that amp willl handle it all day

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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