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Re: Amp keep blowing the 20amp fuse
There is possibly a damaged MOSFET or smaller transistor inside the amp they are pretty easy to locate and takes a little electronics knowledge to replace... also how are you connecting the remote power on for the amp? Make sure to check both ends of power and grounds make sure they are secure and check for wire chafing to make sure your power cable isn't arcing on the frame.Also shake the amp around to see if you hear anything inside rattling around... something coulda fallen inside or came loose.
I'd connect the AMP outside the vehicle to a 12 volt power source and see if it still blows outside your vehicle... could easily be an improper installation.
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Are you using the correct fuse? if so,
more then likely, you don't have a good ground. Try grounding to something else that has more direct connection to your frame. If that doesnt work, try getting larger power cables.
I had the same problem with my 2500w xplodes all I had to do was get a thicker cable for the ground and battery connection. What was happening, was it was needing more power then the wire and fuse could handle, so it would blow the fuse, since the higher you have it, the more power it needs to feed the watts.
I would try grounding it directly to the frame on a good part of the frame before spending another $70 on new power cables though.
First off which fuse is it? The inline fuse from the battery or the amplifiers power supply fuse? Blowing the main fuse from the battery is caused by either the load (your amp) drawing too much current or you have a short to ground somewhere. Maybe there is a tear in the 12Vdc line and it is shorting to the chassis of your car. If the amps power supply fuse is blowing as soon as it turns on your amp has a shorted power supply. This will require internal component changes by a technician. If it is blowing after operation at high volumes I would say change the impedance that the amp is driving. If you are at 2 ohm try to rewire your speakers for four ohm. (go from parallel to series wiring then bridge mono or operate the amp in stereo mode)
Generally, this indicates that there's at least one shorted output transistor.
Disconnect all speaker wires from the 'amplifier's speaker terminals' and disconnect RCA/signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally, the speakers/wiring need to be checked. If it still blows the fuses, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.
I'd recommend using two 10 amp fuses. The amp will power up with 10 amp fuses if there is no problem. If there is a problem, there's less of a chance of doing more damage by using the 10 amp fuses.
Sounds like the amp is blown. Is it the fuse at the amp that blows? or the one at your battery? disconnect the ground and power wires from the amp and check for continuity between the ground and power on the amp terminals. you should have no continuity, and if you do i would check for a shorted power supply mosfet. try disconnecting all speaker wires, rca's, and remote power and see if it still blows. If it does its a problem in the amp, probably blown mosfets.
HI ..PUT AN AMP METER IN LINE TO SEE WHAT THE AMP IS DRAWING..WHEN IT IS CRANKED UP ..IS 20 AMP WHAT IT CALL FOR ON THE AMP IF SO I WOULD NOT GO ANY HIGHER.....BUT IF YOU HAD JUST USED 20 AS A STARTING POINT FOR AN AMP-AGE...SOMETIMES IT IS BETTER THAT THE FUSES BLOW ONCE IN AWHILE THAN THE AMP...ALSO CHECK FOR A LOOSE GROUND.....GOOD LUCK
To have 3 speakers bridged, each speaker must have at least a 12 ohm impedance (assuming that all speakers are connected in parallel). If you're running a load lower than 4 ohms (mono), the amp will likely fail.
The fuses don't blow right away because they are cold at first. As they heat up, they can blow more easily (even though the current draw hasn't increased).
When any amp blows fuses, this indicates that something is drawing too much current. The most common cause are components in the output stage and driver stages that have become defective.
On the amp that is blowing the fuse with the volume being turned up, this means that the output stage is partially working. The short or over-draw of current must be in the output stage, or what is loading it. It is possible in this case that a crossover in a speaker unit is defective, and is drawing too much current. I have seen this with especially sub-woofer crossovers, and the driver itself. Subs pull a lot of current because of the amount of drive power required to have very strong bass sounds. Other than that, this still does not rule out the possibility of the problem being defective components in the amplifier.