Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refrigerator is too cold

Model: PSS 26LG (Build in 2005)
The refrigerator and freezer is too cold, I tried to change the setting for both to level 2 (5 is default) it is still to cold.

Thanks

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You have bad Thermistors they sense the temp in the frezzer and the ref section they are about $15 each and the same part #

Posted on May 10, 2008

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Freezer goes -9 and fridge goes to 40 I have set it to 0 for freezer and 34 for fridge it changes on its own


Depends on type of refrigerator freezer you have, but you need to realize that the evaporator (cooling coils) are in the freezer, and the cold air produced in the freezer is then circulated via an evaporator fan into the refrigerator section. The thermostat the cycles the compressor motor is located in the refrigerator, and the compressor will run until the temperature reaches the desired level in the refrigerator. On most units, the freezer temperature setting simply regulates how much cold air is circulated into the refrigerator.

What you are describing is that the freezer is working fine (almost too good), but the air is not properly getting to the refrigerator area. Several things can be causing restricted airflow, including a faulty evaporator fan, icing of the evaporator coils because of a malfunction in the automatic defrost system. Check to see if there is frost or ice build up in the back or bottom of the freezer. The proper temperatures should be around 0 F for the freezer and 38-40 degrees F for the refrigerator.

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1 Answer

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check defrost element, if good check defrost thermostat, if good change defrot timer/control board depending on your specific model you can look at this link provided its a diff model but none the less quite similar
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Freezer side is fine but fridge side wont get below 39 degrees


Nominal tempreture for your refrigerator is 36-38. on the Freezer the tmpreture should be between 0-2. One of the first things to check is on the freezer side is there any frost or snow build up on the rear wall of the freezer. If there were this is termed as a defrost issue. If you do have this issue with frost build up message me back and I will instruct you how to repair this issue. Another thing to check is if the evaporator fan inside the freezer is blowing the cold air into the refrigerator. The Freezer section is the only area that produces the cold tempreture a fan blows the cold air off the evaporator coils through a damper door that opens and closes depending on the tempreture the refrigerator side is set to. Also check the damper door for any ice build up as well this would cause the door not to open and close and remain in a stuck postion. This would cause inadequate tempreture in the refrigerator side as well. If you have any questions or need any schematics or step by step instructions message me back the model number of your unit and I will provide these and answer any further questions you may have. I await your reply
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I have a whirlpool refrigerator model #GT15HTYMQ81


The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

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1 Answer

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check the damper door between the freezer and refrigerator compartments,it most likely has frozen in the fully open position allowing cold air into refrige compartment all the time,you will see ice build up around the damper door unit,remove the door unit defrost,replace and then see if it moves when you change the refrige cold control

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The freezer is cold but the refrigerator section is not getting cold...it is not warm but not cold according to the dial settings


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Chances are if they are getting cool but not cold-

1) the evaporator fan in the freezer is not running
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4) Defrost timer/refrigerator control has failed.

Check for ice build-up on the back wall of the freezer. If there is ice, unplug or turn the unit off for 6-8 hours with the doors open (put any food in a cooler with ice to maintain). Note water may come out of the refrigerator.
Plug the unit back in or turn it back on, close the doors, and check temperature after a couple of hours of operation. If all OK, you will need to have the above tested, or, if you know how to use a multimeter and can read a schematic/wiring diagram, I can instruct you on how to check the above.

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