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XL1200 '99 which is not producing full power. Only getting 38MPH. Tech MECH says the compression test is low when the engine is hot 90/100/100. He says the engine will have to be rebuilt. Looking for a second opinion

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  • bkime Aug 28, 2010

    I was hoping to get an answer regarding the compression being low. Not quite sure what your trying to tell me? Looking for a technical information. Can you help with that?

  • bkime Aug 28, 2010

    I sent in an earlier request for information. I have a 1999 yamaha xlt which when warm has compression reading of 90/100/100 (3 cycl). Is this low? The ski is not producing full power. Will only go about 38MPH vice the normal 52.

  • bkime Aug 28, 2010

    XL1200 '99 which is not producing full power. Only getting 38MPH. Tech MECH says the compression test is low when the engine is hot 90/100/100. He says the engine will have to be rebuilt. Looking for a second opinion

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  • Master
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It might need rebuilding but there could be another problem. If this is a twostroke engine , the exhaust may be blocked with carbon residue causing the lack of power. Remove any restrictive material from the exhaust chamber, your compression will increase as well as your compression. Good luck!

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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  • Yamaha Master
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If the compression test is low then we dont have much option to increase the power rating. Unless the compression build up well the stroke will not be powered as with low compression.
The last thing we can do is use high rating fuel and change the timing a little to advance so as to increment a higher RPM. If you can do this touch up tuning with the higher fuel grade, check for performance at high RPM . The idling may be a little sloppy. That can be one of my opinions.
If not why not change the compression rings with just the gneral service, polishing of sleeves.?

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

  • Donald DCruz
    Donald DCruz Aug 29, 2010

    I dont any other views but to go with the report of the Tech.I feel that is the way to get your performance up.

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  • Master
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Hello,

If the machine (engine) is expected to provide full power supply after due service and the technician have visit the engine on inspection and then he make is statement as explain
then you willmhave to consider the period of use i.e duration of usage ,nevertheless a rebuilt machine might not be guaranty but you are advice to make a replacement on the machine,but if the technician can guaranty you on the assignment he want to carry out then you ca ask him to go hard but i still remain on my statement .

thank you and thanks for using fixya.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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1 Answer

Getting too much gas so why will it only go 25 mph?


which engine,we cant help much lacking that.
get it serviced?
while it still moves?
what made you think its too much gas?
evidence.?

it's old car.
get compression tested while full tuneup is done.
do that first.;
get it scanned, or at least the isuzu flash codes
is cel lamp glowing key on,then then does not turn off running(check engine lamp)

check fuel pressure?
check injector balances tests, and leak down tests>

the flash codes will show any sensors that fell off
or are 100% dead.

insert the diagnostic jumper wire

http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/

Jan 10, 2016 | 1995 Isuzu Rodeo

2 Answers

Misfire and #4 Low compression


why post 2 times same, problem?
http://www.fixya.com/users/dermot-nolan
My guess is the J20A Suzuki engine,DOHC.
or the J20B with VVT? seems not VVT.
the spec, is 199 PSI !. (I have REAL fsm now in hand)
AS SEEN in USA? and old 99 Vitara 4wd,
first off #4 is dead wrong. (if, no, a BIG IF)
i can't watch your mechanic do the compression wrong
and it seems he did, to me.
are you in this town in Colorado?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leadville,_Colorado
or at high altitude that causes compression to be low. by as much as 30%?
if not , id bet he did the test wrong.
here are the hit points, for a good bench mark.

target compression is spec. - 3% loss per 1000 feet
at sea sea-level target is about 180psi.
warm or hot engine.
charged battery
park or neutral.
spark plug removed (so engine can spin fastest)
block open throttle. so engine has air.
I hot wire the starter, so there is no fueling or spark going on.
180 PSI is what most do. even my oldest 1992 does that warm.
the next rule is to crank and watch the gauge peak
this is what i think your mech, failed to....
if that is what he did wrong, all numbers are junk..
if he did that on purpose , he is "working you"
called building a ticket in bad shops.

if 95 is real, my guess is its burned valves.
but in a real shop (ASE)we grab the leak down gauge.
for all the reasons above, (bad training)
and if the above gauge is bad.
so we do that and say it leaks bad. #4
i use a hose, and listen in 3 places , hose to ear
to find the leakage path, (shop air running on said tool)!
at intake throttle body, with TV open
hisssss,,, intake valve leaking
same for exhaust, i use the 02 removed hole
hissssss, exh valve leaking.
no? hen use valve cover oil filler cap off.
oppp, i hear it leaking to crank case (freeze damage cracked block>?)

this is what they do, to find max, information
and give the best , idea on costs..
a head job and new block are not in the same leak
cost wise.

so are you running 50% antifreeze
do you check the percent each early fall?

freeze damage has no limits, and is worse just
below 32F (0c) as water crosses, this point
it expands, the most, the fastest and bam.
water is a strange thing.
and it is THAT TIME OF YEAR.

I say find a real ASE shop.
the CR, is 10.5:1, on the 2L. 140HP.
i looked it up, this sets the compression rules.
and altitude in all cases;

and parting shot:
if done wrong, i told one guy, i can give you
any number you want, done wrong.
and proved it.....! see me......
some say (wrong) that even done wrong the numbers have meaning, (sure, 0psi, might be same done right or wrong) I say , why do it wrong, at all>?
best is to do nothing, than wrong.

some engines do even more PSI, with heads over milled. (and pings)
The CR rules the roost here... (pure physics of the air pump it is) as does cam timing.
(rings good, valves not burned)

the engine is chain drive and most times never slips like the G16s love to do.
so id say the chain didnt slip,, and retard and go to 150psi.
the Sx4 many have VVT, does it. J20B seems not.
and if you do have VVT this can fail too....
what if it did, and fails to correct just that.
a vastly cheaper fix.
in in the usa, i see it says, "introduced with J20a " the a= not with VVT
so.... there you have it,


btw, many of these suzuki engines with high CR
do 199 psi, (spec,warm,sea-level)
and is offical spec.

all i really know, is, sx4
no engine stated
country
or altitude.
The the vitara J20 runs only 9.3:1 CR. not 10.5:1 like SX4 does.7267cfda-8feb-4739-97a2-7a22b3625f7e.jpg

Nov 01, 2015 | Suzuki SX4 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Suzuki SX4 misfire and low compression, need to figure root cause


Cylinder 4 is way too low. Start there. Check the valve clearances starting at no4 if they can be adjusted. If not see if there is a lifter fault if it has hydraulic lifters. If that doesn't show something significant then its head off and a thorough check by a shop or specialist. Is it possible sometime in its recent life it was over revved? There could be valve damage on no 4, not enough to stop the engine but there is a very good reason for no 4 being like it is. Try and find a good engine shop to go through the stages of checking things before you throw money at it. Another option is get a good head from a breaker yard and swap it.

Nov 01, 2015 | 2007 Suzuki SX4

1 Answer

Power steering


P/s light? (are all fan belts good?)
do head lights glow bright on demand?
do all dash cluster lamps glow, key on,? and the CEL lamp???????
then the CEL goes out when engine starts and runs??? says out>?????
the engine is stalling. does it stall hot and cold engine?

there are 50 causes for that.
and 4 major systems to test. do you have tools. an meters and gauges to check engines.? if not get a mech, that has that
if you want to DIY , then get the tools.
ill list the 4 systems. (not each test)
1: 12vdc power to the whole EFI system.
2: good compression
3: lost spark.
4: bad fueling

there are test to find the 4 paths. #1 is easy a voltmeter will tell you good or bad.
check all fuse first. as always,

Jan 31, 2014 | 2007 Toyota Yaris

1 Answer

Had new battery installed on a 2002 PT Cruiser. Later the same day the car was cutting off/stalling at red lights. A diagnostic came back with a computer failure. Had a new computer installed/programmed....


let your mech do his job.?
and if the battery drops below about 10v, the ecu will fail (lie), and guess what, that is NOT a bad ECU./pcm/bcm,tcm, etc.)_
if you do\'t like your mech. get a real ASE mech. and win.


real ASE mechs never throw parts, ever. (cept a tune up)

learn to monitor cars 12vdc system, get a harbor fright , charge testing tool, cheap, has LEDS. or learn to use a voltmeter
my car has a dash gauge, called volts.

if the volts shows at 14v running then the charge system is working
and the ECU is now working good, with full voltage.
engine off, the voltage is 12.6v (room temp) and means battery (rested) is fully charged. STATE OF CHARGE, method.

over heating must be fixed first.
it can wreck and engine fast. stop dont pass go, do not collect $200 , halt./
why not put a new fan belt on it for $10.
get a GATES or GY, Gatorback

now lets delve in to why you mech is (asleep in class?)
belt new, and tensioned to spec. some belts slip and do so with out a sound!, gee, get a new one? why risk $3000 motor for $10 belt. ?????

park a hot car, look at every inch of engine bay and pavement, for green AF leaks, (fix that first) got low water level in rad, every morning cold?
fix that first, and is #1 DIY check anyone can do.
Look in the rad neck cold, not the overfill tank, that be weak.
now what they do:
1: compression test. (do that first any time and engine overheats
takes 30min or less if sparks are easy to reach. some are not.

2: rad leak down test. (cracked block or head) a hand pump tool.

3: exh, fumes in rad neck test. blow head gasket. a tool.
Blue green liquid changes color, oops? you found it.
PYRO:
4: checks temperature of each rad tube, for same temp drop
end to end, if this passes the RAD is good. All pro mechs know this test and use an IR pyro temp gun, ,and saves many a burned hand. and finds bad rads, so easy its like MAGIC !
if all else fails. (passes above)
we then remove the pump, some pumps can be very hard.
FWD cars sux this why, (buy a jeep!)
the impeller gone or rusted to nill.
bearings shot and leaking green. out the front.
seal shot in same , bad bearings always wreck that seal,.
humpty was pushed.
Im sure i missed a step.
but you get the idea.
and if your mechanic do these. find another.

more?
A: he checks cam and spark timing if way off, the chain or cam belt slipped. belts last 60k, period.
B: The ECU many have ERROR to report,
in fact any scan tool an monitor engine heat.
and all these facts are considered

Over heating (macro) can be
engine producing too much heat (retarded timing?)
or bad cooling system.
or both. (straw breaks camels back deal)\'

Keep in mind Entropy wins everytime.
and find a ASE mech. and win big.

btw 2, a pro mech replaces the ECU last, never first.
as you can see, he failed you. here.
i bet you where taken for a ride....

Oct 04, 2013 | Chrysler PT Cruiser Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2006 ford expedition xlt fuel pump intermiting power


you are guessing. why guess?
Bad fueL?
1: do a full tune up, do the 60k mile tune up.
spark and filter ,this gets the fuel filter too.
2: no start still?
LOST DC power to EFI, fuses blown. no start no fuel no spark.

A; poor engine compression, its first, if bad all else is window dressing. a simple gauge test, every mech knows by heart
.
B: lost spark or never tuned up ever.
driving with CEL glowing , and DCTS p0300 Months on end... then..stalls.
C: bad fueling, too much or too little.
huge list of tests.
if you had tested fuel pressure and it was 30 psi, all you did was a wasted effort. but is the first fueling test.
besides, spark tips
ever see a mech, check them:>
fouling, wet ,soaked , AF green, black , oil? that is the #1 evidence.
if soak in fuel its flooding if all cylinder are flooding this is a top clue. if one , then injector bad.(or signals to it)
dry plugs try then try test fuel
if test fuel fails on a dry engine. the spark or engine is bad.
if flooded, the missing op guide tells you to crank WOT.
this clears the flood, WOT cranking cuts all injections.

by now its running.

Feb 24, 2013 | Motorsports

2 Answers

Idles ok, stalls out at stops sometimes, and will not go faster than 20 -25 miles and hour sometimes it is now showing a hard start symptom. Fuel pump has been replaced showed 30 lbs on line


Check the engine coolant temp sensor and the intake air temp sensor for proper function. If either of these two sensors is stuck at full hot, the computer will see this and not schedule enough fuel for running at actual temperatures that are less than full hot. So most of the time you'll run super lean and have no power. Lean stalls and hard starting--especially when cold--are other symptoms of this problem.

Feb 09, 2011 | 1996 Land Rover Discovery

1 Answer

1996 Dodge Ram won't start, compression is low


you need ti check your fuel pressure out and also do a no load test on your altenator because that might not be producing enough electrical energy to start the truck

Oct 06, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 Club Cab

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