Question about Refrigerators

8 Answers

Honeywell fridge model 88031. Power cycles when plugged in. Light flickers and fans stutter but do not start. Appears to not be geting enough power. Suspect control board (or a resistor/capacitor) has failed. Is there any type of reset or hidden fuse that I cannot see? If not where can I purchase a new board or get this one repaired? I live in Edmonton, Canada. Postal code T8n 6P5. Thanks in advance Tim Hadden

Posted by on

  • 8 more comments 
  • Pierre Cyrenne Oct 10, 2008

    I have the same problem, I will wait to see if someone can help.

  • Anonymous Nov 06, 2008

    Me too. All of a sudden. Interior light is "blinking", fridge is hot. When I set to off, light stays on.

  • Anonymous Nov 29, 2008

    Yeh im in the same boat, no ideas on a solution as yet. what did anyone else end up doing with it?

  • info706 Dec 10, 2008

    Light in corner flickers and fans are trying to turn but can't. Only 6 months old

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2009

    same problem here!!! HELP!

  • Trekkergal Feb 20, 2009

    I have the same problem. Fridge suddenly stopped working and the light on the back dial thing keeps flickering. This fridge never ever did get really cold anyway, even on max. So it was a piece of **** from the beginning. We obviously bought defective fridges guys and now have to go out and buy a new one? Forget it. No more mini-fridges for me.

  • cynmic440 Feb 24, 2009

    I have the same problem with the same model # Talked to Honeywell. The do not repair but will replace if you have the receipt. Call 1-800-579-7990.

  • dave2113 Mar 04, 2009

    Hi, i have not tried your solution yet. There is a 1000micro 16volt cap. in there now. Should i change with same or larger as you said, if larger what would the safest size be. Thank you dave2113@live.com

  • denysg Apr 20, 2009

    Where can I get that part? ie:1000 microF 25 Volt capacitor. I have removed the circuit board and have someone that will do the soldering but cannot find the part.



    Denys

  • lumlumhw Nov 14, 2009

    i'm having the same similar problem, but i changed the cap mentioned. still have 10.6 v once the white cord 3 plug plugged in from smaller board.then 12.12 v when not plugged in. i'm having someone more expirenced with electronics as he thinks something has gone bad on the smaller board.the larger p.s. board checks out ok. i will follow up with what my solution is for my situation.

×

8 Answers

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 26 Answers

Here we go folks, the problem is a failed capacitor on the circuit board.
It is called C10 which is printed on the circuit board, it is located on the left side of the silver heat sink and above the doughnut shaped coil, you should replace it with the same or one catagory higher in voltage.(1000 mircofarad 16 Volt)
You should have some soldering experience to replace and please pay attention to the polarity. (Pos and Neg.)

Fuji

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

  • Fuji Mar 22, 2009

    Hey Dave, if you could make a 1000 microF 25 Volt fit, that would be best.

  • Woilly
    Woilly Feb 19, 2016

    thanks.. this a good answer.. personnaly i'am tech and i had the exact same problem. Cap must be changed by a min 25 V specification... do not change it for more or less uF.

×

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

Replaced the cap (C10) with 1000uf 25V one & it fixed the problem. For a 12 volt circuit I think that the manufacturer was optimistic installing a 16V cap, it should have been at least double the voltage rating. Or else he had a lot of 16V ones in stock to use up.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I was told by Honeywell and by a few repair shops that it was no use to repair. Juste put it in the garbage they said. I however asked around and could get the part (capacitor) from an electronic centre. I removed the mother board and brought it to the shop. The piece cost $1.10 and they fixed it for $5, including the price of the part.
I re-installed the part back in the fridge and turned it on and it works.
Fixed for 5 bucks. Amazing.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

×

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I found the 1000uF 25V capacitor at a local electronics store, installed it in 5 min, and my fridge works again. Fantastic solution and thank you Flydude for the answer. This will save our fridge from the landfill.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 2 times.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

I also have this problem. I'm in Québec...
Sylvie

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 2 Answers

I have replace C10 with 1000uF, the original has rating of 105o temperature and 16V bought 35V rating 85o, so I replaced with 1000uF 63V 105o.
Thank you very much, its working, seems to be fresh, so I cross my fingers for no more troubles.

Posted on Oct 31, 2011

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I also have the 88031 fridge with a faulty C10/1000uF16v cap. after scrounging theough my bits boxes, the only one i have that has a high enough voltage is a 3300uF 35v electrolytic cap. altough its a tad on the large size, will it be sufficient to get it running again, or is the capacitance too large ?

thx
rob

Posted on Sep 10, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • rob s Sep 11, 2010

    i decided i couldn't wait for a reply, here, i installed the 3300uF 35v cap i found. happily it seems to be working. the power supply does not make any more strange noises and the light isn't flickering. i'll come back here again sometime over the next day or so, so the fridge has time to cool off.

    thx for the adice
    Lnkk

  • rob s Sep 12, 2010

    well its the day later and my little fridge that could, did :) it has become its usual cold self once again.
    btw a higher voltage cap will not increase the output voltage of the device. it only creates a larger margin of safety should something bad happen inside the power supply. also the larger uF value decreases the ripple coming out. so since i have increased the uF from 1000 to 3300 the power sent to the components will be that much more smooth.

    thanks again for the advice (not adice{typo sorry})
    L8R
    rob

  • Don Pasqua Nov 24, 2011

    Can You tell me if your 35v 3300uf capacitor still works or would you recommend the 25v 1000uf as a replacement.

  • Don Pasqua Nov 24, 2011

    Is your 35v 3300uf capacitor still working or would you recommend the 25v 1000uf capacitor?

  • rob s Nov 24, 2011

    the primary filter cap in any DC power supply must be, at minimum, twice (2X) the supplys output voltage. so, for a 12v suply, you need a minimum of a 25v cap. this is not a debatable discussion. if you use less than double you are risking the capacitor exploding. trust me, it ain't pretty watching one launch itself right off the circuit board and fly 20ft. and yeah, they s t i n k.

    Don Pasqua
    yes the 25v unit will work, but keep in mind that its the minimum voltage allowed for safe operation. 1000uf is okay, but for better filtration(smoother running) a higher uF number would be better.

×

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

I replaced my cap what other recommended which was a 16v 1000uf , now a 25 v 1000uf. it should be double for what the voltage is. so I gather at the assembly shop in china they were using leftover stock. I have my fridge plugged back in now with a power meter on it, so I really think this cap was bad already when I brought the fridge home. I'm also monitoring for water with a tray to catch any. if these fans were not running all the time before could have caused the water overfilling the drip pan and water on the floor.

Posted on Dec 11, 2009

  • sendjo Apr 05, 2011

    I replaced C10 with another 16V. 2200uf , and it worked without any problem the fridge....:).....thx for the advice.

  • rob s Apr 06, 2011

    since you replaced it with another 16v cap, its gonna do the same thing sometime in the future.
    to prevent this and a impressive puff of smoke, replace it with one that has at least a 24V rating or better.

×

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Honeywell compact refrigerator model # 88031not cooling.


Honeywell compact refrigerator model # 88031 making a clicking noise, not cooling, interior light blinks, and the fans in back are not working properly....seems as if it's not getting full power. worked fine for about a year and justed stopped.

Mar 18, 2010 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

How can I repair my Honeywell Bar Fridge Model 88031. There appears little or no power going to the rear fans & the interior light flickers.... but fridge does NOT get cold. Do u have a solution?


This refrigerator has a thermoelectric cooler, no compressor. Anything that goes wrong is probably electronic. A circuit diagram would really be helpful.

Oct 12, 2009 | U-Line 15R Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Honeywell 88031 fridge not working


Just in conversation, what you are referring to is the Peltier heating/cooling components. They are wired in parallel and require a power supply to activate them. These elements have 2 junctions, a hot side and a cold side. Depending on what temperature you you require, the polarities are reversed.Very possible,some of the junctions are faulty assuming you have checked the power supply. Best to replace all the peltier modules.

Oct 03, 2009 | U-Line 15R Compact Refrigerator

2 Answers

Honeywell minifridge not cooling, blinking, funny sounds


there is a 1000 Uf electrolytic capacitor on the power supply unit that was bought from a bad supplier. It's suffered a failure as they ALL did. Replacing it with a new 1000 Uf capacitor 16 volts or higher will fix it. Just remember they are polarity sensitive. i found mine at the dump and fixed it in less then 1 hour. The top of it will be bulging out and it could even leak

Jun 07, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Honeywell 88031 is not cooling. Fuse may be blown.


opj38 -
Thanks, I used your hint/tip.!!!
I have a Honeywell 88031, it was flickering the light, buzzing intermittently and not cooling.
I took the back cover off and looked at the capacitor you mentioned. (Right by the Heatsink)
It was bulged and buckled outwards. Marked 1000uF 16V
I looked around in the junk parts I have laying around and found a 1000uF 10V Capacitor. I put it in and now it works normal and cools.
I suppose I should get one rated for 16 or 25 V, but for now I am going to see if it will stay running or ?
Good Luck to others with this problem.

May 19, 2008 | Refrigerators

Not finding what you are looking for?
Refrigerators Logo

Related Topics:

1,775 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Refrigerators Experts

John Tripp
John Tripp

Level 3 Expert

4636 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Refrigerator Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...