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I need to replace a switch(dual infinite switch) on my kitchenaid oven (YKERC607) but I don't know wich wires go where. Could someone help me? Thank you un advance. Mathieu

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  • mathieu79 Aug 27, 2010

    I had already checked with appliance stores and repair shops but no one wants to send a wiring diagram, only a small tech sheet wich is no use since I do not have the old part and it refers to it. The website did not provide any new relevant information.



    Thanks anyway for your time but this does not help, unfortunatly.





    Mathieu

  • mathieu79 Aug 27, 2010

    I was not able to get any information from a retailer or a repair shop. The website was not useful either.



    Despite all this, I decided to try to figure what was going where and finally did by a deductive process. I tried it and everything works. Is it possible that everything work even if the wiring is not correct?



    mathieu

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All ovens or stoves I have even worked on have a circuit diagram inside the back panel.

However, I have found a description of the switch terminals:

L1 & L2 (for incoming power)
H1 & H2 (for outgoing power)
P (for the indicator light).
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/3118-infinite-switch-wiring-change-6-wires-5-wire-switch.html#ixzz0xroPTrfj
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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  • Ovens Master
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An instruction booklet should have come with the part, but if you didn't mark or label the wires when you took them off the old switch, then you have to identify them by whatever method is available. Appliance Dealer repair shops usually have microfich or computer schematics to identify parts and their assembly, and you might try to call on one of these places, if you can. They're usually more than happy to bring up the diagrams and try to assist. Other than that, one would need a full fledged service manual, and other than being difficult to find, they're usually somewhat expensive, but not always. Here is a great link to a site that has some good information about appliances, and they do have your parts, and may be of assistance to you since they also have instructions for the parts. They may be able to email you a scan of the instructions, never know till you try...so contact them. Here's the link:
http://www.repairclinic.com/Brands-We-Carry
Good luck, hope this helps, and thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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1 Answer

MEW 7627A double ovens keep cutting out with a click and then turns itself back on again. The control panel has been replaced and it is still doing the same thing


Hello Sheryl;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

If your unit is new it should still be under warrantee for one year.

Who replaced the control board was it a service company? You should have a 90 day warrantee on the work, which did not work.

Anyway, you may have a bad; "Infinite Switch".
An infinite switch allows the user to set the heat from low to high and everywhere in between, hence the name "Infinite." This switch differs from a "Low-Medium-High" switch, which provides only three heat settings. The infinite switch uses a bimetal switch and physically moves through the process of heating and cooling, causing the main switch contacts to open and close and controlling the power applied to the heating elements.Typically, when an infinite switch malfunctions, the surface element will not heat, or it will remain on high in every position.
  1. Before repairs or testing can begin, you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!.
  2. Next, depending on your appliance type/model, access the infinite switch using one of the following methods:
    1. For most standard models, remove the back panel.
    2. On models with front-mounted controls, the panel is attached with screws on both ends. Remove the screws and tilt the control panel, being careful not to let the wires disengage from the components.
    3. For models with a removable backsplash, simply lift the backsplash, rest it on the cooktop and remove the screws to access the components.
    4. If you are working on an eye-level range or wall oven, remove the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be located under the front of the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, tilt the control panel towards you.
    5. Some models will require that you remove the rear panel and front panel before work can begin.
    6. If the front control panel is glass, remove the screws securing the trim that holds the glass in place.

Test for continuity between the switch contacts:
  1. Remove all wires from the switch terminals. (Remember to label them!)
  2. Set the infinite switch on high and place your ohmmeter on the L2, H2, P and H1 terminals to check for continuity.
    1. If there is no continuity between L1 and H1 or between L2 and H2, the infinite switch is defective.
    2. If there is no continuity between P and H1, the indicator light circuit is defective.
  3. Remove the infinite switch by removing the screws or nuts that hold it in place and install a new infinite switch by following the disassembly instructions in reverse order. Be sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals.

REMEMBER YOU ARE

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1 Answer

Direct spark ignition wont fire on bake or broil


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

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When i try to use the oven, it doesn't work and appears an error code F20


If you replaced an element, you may have made an error in replacing it. Here is a post: (on a service call i ran across this same range with the same problem and remembering from a s/c about a year ago i had purchased the (316441801) dual element switch .. It wasn't in a box but looked the same . so i installed the switch .. and to my surprise f20 popped up as soon as I turned on the oven . This code also appeared when i removed and isolated the wire's ( i.e. no switch at all ) I spent the next 30 minutes checking wiring , so here's the reason this happens . It is a communication error code . One of the Dual elements has a (316441801) and the other has (316441804) switch . The last number is different . I found that one switch acts as a ground and the other as a positive. I'm not quite sure as to why its attached to the EOC . So when changing out one of the dual switches look at the sticker on the switch as it has the part number on it . Hope this helps and saves someone from buying the EOC as that is most likely not the problem

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MODEL WFG231LVQ0 OVEN AND BROILER WONT LITE BURNERS WORK


are you sure about that being the reason. I would check the infinite switch's

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

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CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

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see this steps and fix it. God bless you

. Top element
If the element only works partially or not getting red hot at the "Hi" setting, the problem might be with a burned out receptacle that the element plugs into. If this is the case, replace both the element and the receptacle.

You can usually tell when the element itself burns out. It might have small holes or bubbles on the coil. Replace the element, if found defective.

2. Infinite switch
Another reason, why the element would not start, might be a defective infinite switch (located behind the control panel, with the burner knob on its shaft). Replace the switch if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/rangeoven-repair-help.html#2-2#ixzz2aSmUeYiW
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

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