My husband figured it out.....when we took the knobs off, I, of course, washed the area they had been sitting on, thereby spilling some water into the open part which contained the wires leading to the igniters. A short time with a hair dryer sorting things out.
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The problem is the burners switch the the single burners has failed, this will cause is not to fire the module and ignite the burner. I would replace just that burner switch to correct the problem. When you call for parts, make sure you have the complete model number and possible color of that burner switch needed. They make or have available switch that are sold by color, so color may be needed for this model.
Hello Blair Does the clicking or spark stop with all knobs in off position? If so it's probably the one burner valve for the one you're trying to light ,stuck in light mode,sending signal to module.Have that burner valve replaced.($50). (2) If clicking continues even though everything is off, it could be any one of the burner valves or your ignition module is messed up .You would have to pull wire off each burner valve one by one to find the offending valve . If not valves then suspect ignition module. Easily fixed either way.
Yes, thats okay when you turn the knob voltage gets sent to the spark module, Then the module sparks all the burner igniter. And frame ignition only happens on the single burner of the knob you turned that sends gas to the burner associated with that knob.
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When you turn the burner knob on does the igniter click and turn off on it's own when the flame ignites? If it does then it has flame rectification. That means it can sense when the flame is on. Or does it click when the knob is in the light position and not stop until you move the burner knob? Then this is standard ignition. If it is standard ignition it sounds like it is the igniter switch built into the burner knob might be defective. Are you able to turn on any burner knob and when they are in the igniter position do all the electrodes spark or just the burner that you are turning on? If they all come on then they are wired in a series. If they are wired in a series do you get a spark at the electrode of the problem igniter? If so you can turn on one of the other burners to ignition position then while it is clicking turn on the problem burner to light it. If the cooktop uses flame rectification then there may be a problem with the switch built into the burner knob or the flame rectification sensor for that burner might be bad.
Try cleaning around all the ignitors at each burner. Look for build up of cleansing product and/or food. Sometimes all it takes is a good cleaning and removal of a buildup to solve this. Worth trying before replacing a bunch of parts! K
is this a sealed burner unit? if so the burner base (the heavy brass part under the burner cap) has to be sitting just right. you will notice that it has holes around the the sides make sure that where your ignitor sparks to it that it aligns with the lowest hole on the burner base. if you have a great flame all around the burner after checking what i mentioned i would replace the spark module. if it continues to drive you crazy with the noise - just unplug it. the burners will continue working fine without power.
This is likely caused by either a dirty ignition electrode, a cracked ignition electrode, or a bad spark re-ignition module.
Clean and inspect the six electrodes for cracks, If that doesn't solve it order a new Ignition module from an internet appliance dealer that carries Viking parts like Appliance Zone.
If you replace the Ignition module yourself, make sure to turn off the circuit breaker to the range/cooktop before you work on it. Also, make a drawing of where the different color leads are plugged into the ignition module before you unplug the wires and plug them into the new re-ignitor. If the unit is under one year, this should be covered under the warranty. Viking had a recall a few years back on their ignitor modules.