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Model 1103406766. Dryer will not heat up. Checked both the coil, reading around 12 or 13 when we tested it and the censors were running around 4 when i tested them. Does anyone know if these work?

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Try checking your breaker box.If one side of the 220 breaker has popped the dryer will run with no heat. It sounds like your element and your thermal cutoffs are good. You actually should read about 10 to 12 on the element and 0 (infinity) on the thermal cutoffs. Make sure you zero out your multimeter everytime you use it. Rate me if I helped you!

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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1 Answer

Replaced heater element nin our dryer and still have no heat what could it be


check continuity with a voltmeter, if you get a reading then the coil is good, check thermistor, and thermostat make sure they are connected and are not damage, if they look damage replace parts. Here is an example of parts to look for, remember look up you model dryer to get correct parts

part 12,13, and 27
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/03-bulkhead-parts-parts-for-maytag-ned7200tw10.html
Parts for Maytag NED7200TW10 Bulkhead Parts

Sep 06, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Not Drying No Heat


Test for these first:
First of all, see if you have good voltage supply on the socket on which it is powered too.

(1) All venting is clear of lint, even disconnected from back of dryer.

(2) Breaker in house is not tripped. Cycle the breakers off and back on to make sure.

(3) Test continuity on all thermostats and thermal fuses, all have to measure 0 ohms when wires are disonnected and dryer unplugged. We tested the HiLimit Thermostat, Safety Thermostat, and Thermal fuse mounted to the heating element housing, all should have continuity. Also measure the two thermostats located near the exhaust duct in the rear of the dryer, get 0 ohms as well.

(4) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test continuity from each terminal to the metal cage to make sure none of the elements were grounded. Good if theres no continuity there.

(5) Disconnect wires from heating elements. Test resistance between double coil and inner/outer coil. Each should measure around 19 ohms.

(6) Test the dryer temperature switch by removing wire from terminal 15, then took a reading between terminal 15 and terminal 16, should get 0 ohms there.

(7)Test the dryer timer by first setting the timer to 60 minutes. then remove the wire from terminal A. We then took a reading between terminal A and terminal B, and should get 0 ohms. then keet the leads on those two terminals and rotate the timer and had continuity throughout the 70 minute cycle.

Apr 14, 2008 | GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric...

1 Answer

No dryer heat


If the coils are bad the unit will light with flame for 4 - 8 times then all of a sudden the ignitor will glow, kick off with no gas coming threw valve. it sounds like the high limit thermostat is short cycling the flame. This is the thermostat that sits on top of the burner chamber. remove 1 screw from the thermostat and blend it upwards away from the heat. Then plug unit back in and test to see if the flame stays on longer. Click here to see maytag dryer no heat posts. Contact me anytime here. Hope this helps..

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1 Answer

No heat but dryer running. I already checked both circuit breakers


Sorry to read about your problem.

Their is a 80% chance you have a defective heat coil or coils. or the heat selector switch is defective.

I tried to help you. Please help me and vote/rate this response thanks.
If you live in Denver area, I can help you.

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Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore 67032 Dryer

1 Answer

My Kitchen Aid dryer model #kgys750gq1 will not heat up. Its around 3-4 years old or so. Other than that it is fine. Can you please help? It is a gas dryer. It is hooked up right. It just quit heating up...


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Dec 27, 2010 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

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You should have your owner's manual on hand to locate specific parts and understand how to disassemble the dryer. Also make sure that the power is disconnected from the appliance before making any repairs.

1)Check the fuses near the heating element. Inspect them for breaks inside the fuse. Replace them if necessary.
2)Test the temperature switch with a volt-ohm meter. Set the meter to RX1 and zero it out. Touch the meter probes to each terminal on the switch. The reading should be zero. Next turn the switch on and test it again. Now the reading should show infinity. If the switch fails either test replace it with a new one.
3)Check the heating coil to see if it is bad. Use the volt-ohm meter and touch the probes to each of the heating coil terminals. If it reads zero, the heating coil needs to be replaced.

Aug 29, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore series 80 gas dryer will not heat up


Hi. this dryer has a set of coils that sit on top of the actual gas valve assembly. these coils activate the main and secondary gas valves and if the coil assembly is malfunctioning or, the wires and clips are corroded, the coils will not activate the gas valves to open and close. this malfunction will affect the heating process within this dryer unit.

I recommend inspecting the dryer coil assembly. use a mulitimeter to test for Resistance. you should get a reading of some type of current flow through the wires and, if this is the case, the coils are bad and they will need to be replaced.

This test is actually not needed. the non existing heat is a red flag on its own and, it greatly confirms a major failure within the coil assembly. replacing the coils will fix your dryer.

PLease rate and god bless:)


Apr 20, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

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If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Try replacing the heating element. This should solve your heating problem. Sign, Spurs21

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