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I have a tecumsee compressor for a cold tray Mod # aea2410yxa. Its showing 60 psi on the high and low side. It tries to run for about 10 sec. the kicks out. the power keeps the cond. fan running and it has 120 to the common side of the compressor but shows nothing on the run or start sides. i replaced the relay and the overload, could the compressor be bad?

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  • pool_player4 Aug 27, 2010

    The overload shows 120 volts going through it to the common but through the relay im showing nothimg. could it be wired wrong?

  • pool_player4 Aug 27, 2010

    The overload is not kicking out now but the relay is not showing any power 120 v on either side?

  • pool_player4 Aug 27, 2010

    I checked the amp draw on the compressor it was at 25 amps. Should i try replacing the capacitor befor givig up?

  • pool_player4 Aug 29, 2010

    Im wondering about the compressor because theres 60 pounds on both the high side and the low side? any comments?

  • pool_player4 Aug 29, 2010

    Im sure its wired ok. Im worndering about there being 60 psi on both the high side as well as the low side? any comments?

  • pool_player4 Aug 30, 2010

    Thank you for your help with my cold table. you gave me plenty of option to try however i'm afraid the last option is replacing the compressor,thank you for your help

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4 Answers

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The compressor is kicking the thermal overload for some reason. Look on the compressor label. There is an LRA number there which is for "locked rotor amperage." 1 1/4 hp compressor for example has an LRA of 13.7 up to 16.9 amps depending on manufacturer. You need to use a clamp on amp meter to measure the amperage. If you see the LRA number is reached then the compressor is dragging / not starting / frozen in place.

One thing that is still a possibility is that there is a very weak run capacitor. You check it by disconnecting one side of it then use a meter repetedly reversing leads on R X1000 watching for a jump in the meter reading. No jump = bad cap. Or short across cap terminals = bad cap. Your 2/3rd of the way there by replacing the overload and relay. Cap must also be verified.

One more test to do is read EACH compressor terminal to the compressor case. If any 2 of them read to ground it is internally shorted. Most of the compressor none of the leads will read to the case of the compressor unless it is a multi phase very large compressor and has a delta ground.

Kelly

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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  • Kelly
    Kelly Aug 28, 2010

    This is a 1/4 hp compressor and if it is drawing 25 amps and not starting.... it is not looking too good for continued service. Actually it seems pretty high for a 1/4 hp compressor. I had asked that you check the EACH of compressor terminals to the compressor case for continuity. (Compressor internal short test) I did not see that in your response. That test alone would let you know if the compressor has electrically failed internally. You should do this check before any other testing.



    I hate to recommend this but... as a technician I would at least try changing the cap if the compressor is not shortred internally. I doubt it is going to make much difference. However... being that this will probably require a compressor replacement (Compressor lists for $397.00 - $440.00)

    I would give the cap a whirl if nothing else just to have a new one in place once the compressor was replaced. Add labor, service call and freon... this is not a cheap repair if in fact this ends up being a compressor failure.



    I am not sure how old your cold table is but, most of the time compressor does not just up and quit unless an armature bearing failed rapidly or the compressor pump had a catastrophic failure inside. Usually if you compare your utility bill you would note a steady increase in the KWH used each month up until the failure. If you noticed this I would bet the farm the compressor failed. Depends on the application. A homeowner would notice the difference. A service establishment may not notice the difference.



    Thanks for giving FixYa the opprotunity to help.



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Aug 28, 2010

    This is the compressor $397.11 ref: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...



    Note the seller is in NY and from a business. I only cite this as a price comparison and not as a recommended business or purchase. That is your decision.



    Kelly

  • pool_player4 Aug 29, 2010

    I checked the compressors terminals to groun and non of them are grounded. you thin its worth trying to replace the capacitor?

  • pool_player4 Aug 29, 2010

    Im worndering about there being 60psi on both the high side and the low side? any comments?

  • Kelly
    Kelly Aug 29, 2010

    The 60 psi on both sides is an equalized (normal) system, not running. Once the compressor starts then you see the high and low side pressure differences. You can try a cap. I think with this particular compressor that a replacement comes with new caps. If you buy a cap and it doesn't start you may just have a spare cap on your hands. It is worth a try as it is the cheaper alternative. And to be honest.. if this were me working on your cold table I would not be changing a compressor until I had swapped out thermal overload, PTC relay and the cap(s) Just a must do p;rocess pre compressor change. Some have 2 caps 1 for starting and 1 for running.



    Kelly

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Since it has 60 psi,I would say the compressor is fine because there is pressure.I would look at the condensor.If it is not able to convert the gas into liquid,there is probably a safety control which is shutting it down to prevent overpressure.I saw your answers to whatever some of the others asked(they won't let other experts see each other's comments)and it is not likely that your 2 new things you replaced are bad.Good luck! Greg

Posted on Aug 28, 2010

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Yes sounds like its bad to me a tecumse compressor is one of the worst compressors they put in appliances today in all actuality they dont put enough oil on the inside of the compressor which cause them to burn out quicker most of the time when we change a compressor out and it is originally a tecumse well switch to any other kind but a tecumsee thats how good those work.Theres no way to give an accurate warranty on them because they blow out so easily. they are not a well made compressor by far.also a question for you when you changed the overload and the relay did the line get even slightly cold or did it just stay warm the whole time? In all I think its a waste of a compressor and out of changing out over 4-500 of them withiin the past two years i can tell ya try a differnt brand. please remember to rank this opinion and if you have any further questions message me back. Have a great day
rickead1

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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  • Master
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Hello,

Hmm, it sounds as if your compressor is wired backwards. Here's why.

You should have the 120vac applied to the run and start windings, and the common should be tied to the neutral. When the overload opens, the neutral is interrupted, killing both start and run windings. Your Potential Start relay is dependent upon the voltage ramp-up of the start winding. If it doesn't see this ramp-up, because it is placed on the hot side of the winding, it will not disengage, and causes the thermal overload to kick out.

I am not sure if the compressor itself will be damaged by miswiring though.

At this point, I would ensure that the compressor, the capacitors, the Potential Start Relay, the overload is all wired according to the diagram found on the unit's panel. If it is, check for continuity across each windings terminals, as well as each terminal to the compressor housing. You should have continuity from terminal to terminal on the same winding, but no continuity from terminal to the housing. If you do, then the compressor is grounded, and will need to be replaced.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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