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My Maytag Refrigerator Model MSD2756DEB is not cooling properly. The temperature range is mid 40?s to mid 50?s, and the temperature control is on 9. The freezer works fine. I checked the coil in the freezer and it is not iced over at all. The compressor seems to be working?kicking on and off every 20 minutes or more. The fan is spinning, and it isn?t dirty/dusty. The seals seem to be fine. Any thoughts?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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hotuna
  • 288 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite refrigerator stops cooling - Relay keeps cycling

The compressor is locked up. Basically it is stuck. You can pick up at the local appliance parts store a hard start relay, Home Depot ,Lowes, or or those guys wont have it. Its not too expensive and is worth trying because your only other option is you need to replace the compressor. The part is called a kick start or hard start, the guy at the parts store will know what you are talking about. It is simple to connect and has the wiring directions on it. Sometimes this is all it takes. I have been able to get a stuck compressor to go by placing a short 2x4 on it and whack it with a hammer a few times. This is only a temporary fix though, as it will eventually lock up again, but emergency situation this saved the food. If the fridge has a fan back there make sure it works too, it may have been the original cause. Good luck.

Posted on Dec 26, 2007

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: lights flashing all cooling appears normal ice maker flap continually opens and shuts no water buttons not operational

As I mentioned before my Maytag was doing the same thing, I called Maytag expecting a big fight but they were really nice about it.
This is a recall problem and even if your warrenty is up Maytag will repair it at NO COST to you.
They shiped me the HV board and sent a repairman who had it fixed in about 10 minutes with a newley designed HV board.

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 958 Answers

SOURCE: Sub-Zero 650 -- lights/fan not working

you can check the bulb's resistance if they still have. they could be both busted. if they have, the problem could come from thre door switch if you have mechanical door switches that controls bulbs. on the LED read outs, you could have a loose connection to the main board because if the board is not functioning well, then you should not have a cooling refrigerator.

please rate me, i hope i was able to solve your problem.

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

  • 327 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 596.73502201 Not cooling. Compressor , fan, seal ok

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 

Posted on Dec 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: maytag refridgerator model MSD2651HEW refridge not cooling properly

my water dispencer has a low flow after an initial regular flow. why?

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

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There's a good chance that the water filter needs replacement.

May be some other reasons. Here's page 12 of the manual, also look at page 21 for troubleshooting ideas.

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/506002/Maytag-Msd2554arw.html?page=12#manual

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I am in need of the proper programming sequence to enter the defrost cycle on a Maytag F/F model MFF2558VEM. The factory tech sheet is not on the unit


Lakeland Appliance: According to FixYa.com Jenny Dutot said: "Dear jorge, I had the same problem when my refrigerator was broken. You need to re-program the control panel as follows: 1. First you need the Program Code for your fridge. It is on the plate on the inside of your fridge, on the same plate that has your Model # and Serial # on it. 2. Programming is done with the refrigerator doors open. 3. Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad on the control panel. 4. Then press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad. 5. Then release the Door Alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds. 6. The control pad will then display PE to indicate it's in programming mode. 7. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature down keypad once more. 8. The control panel will display the current program code. It should be the same one that I asked you to find in Step 1. 9. If the program code is the correct one, exit the programming mode by closing the refrigerator doors. 10. If the program code is not the correct one for your refrigerator, press the Refrigerator Temperature Up or Down to change the value with each keypress. 11. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up or Down to select the next digit. 12. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer Temperature down keypad until the program code begins flashing, indicating that it's been saved. 13. Again, when you're done, exiting the program mode is done by closing the refrigerator doors. Hope this helps alot of people out there. I'm not sure what the problem is at Maytag, but they're extremely slow in getting parts shipped for their units. The local Maytag repair people have indicated to me that they are seeing an overwhelming number of Maytag refrigerators needing repairs that are around the one year age range. They say the quality of the new units is terrible. "

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How do I fix my refrigerqtor hotpoint double door not defrostiong


Generally, if you unplug the refrigerator and set the freezer and refrigerator temperature controls to off then plug it back it, this will put the refrigerator in forced defrost mode. Keep the doors closed and allow defrosting to last for about 20 minutes. Then unplug again and reset the temperature controls to mid-range or a little above, and plug it back in. If this does not reset the defrost cycle, you probably need service.

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SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR MODEL RT72KBSL1/2012, IS HAVING TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATIONS. for ex, temp reaches -20 than decreases to 9 degree n again -20 n vice versa. There is fluctuations also on display.


Sounds like your thermostat is sticking on and needs replaced. Before replacing check the setting on the thermostat. Almost all themostats are calibrated to maintain the proper temperature in the correct range when the thermostat is set to the mid position. If your thermostat is number 1 to 9, place it at 5. Refrigerator and freezer do not cool faster setting the controls to the coldest setting. This is misconception of a lot of people.

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1 Answer

Replaced circuit board, refrigerator wont allow programming, just says PE0 000


Dear joe, I had the same problem when my refrigerator was broken. You need to re-program the control panel as follows: 1. First you need the Program Code for your fridge. It is on the plate on the inside of your fridge, on the same plate that has your Model # and Serial # on it. 2. Programming is done with the refrigerator doors open. 3. Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad on the control panel. 4. Then press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad. 5. Then release the Door Alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds. 6. The control pad will then display PE to indicate it's in programming mode. 7. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature down keypad once more. 8. The control panel will display the current program code. It should be the same one that I asked you to find in Step 1. 9. If the program code is the correct one, exit the programming mode by closing the refrigerator doors. 10. If the program code is not the correct one for your refrigerator, press the Refrigerator Temperature Up or Down to change the value with each keypress. 11. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up or Down to select the next digit. 12. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer Temperature down keypad until the program code begins flashing, indicating that it's been saved. 13. Again, when you're done, exiting the program mode is done by closing the refrigerator doors. Hope this helps alot of people out there. I'm not sure what the problem is at Maytag, but they're extremely slow in getting parts shipped for their units. The local Maytag repair people have indicated to me that they are seeing an overwhelming number of Maytag refrigerators needing repairs that are around the one year age range. They say the quality of the new units is terrible.

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I have a Maytag refrigerator similar to the current model (GS2625GEKS), I purchased mine in 2003. Serial number unknown. All of a sudden my freezer is way too cold and my refrigerator is not cold enough....


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1 Answer

Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer


Dear jorge, I had the same problem when my refrigerator was broken. You need to re-program the control panel as follows: 1. First you need the Program Code for your fridge. It is on the plate on the inside of your fridge, on the same plate that has your Model # and Serial # on it. 2. Programming is done with the refrigerator doors open. 3. Press and hold the Door Alarm keypad on the control panel. 4. Then press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down keypad. 5. Then release the Door Alarm keypad and wait 3 seconds. 6. The control pad will then display PE to indicate it's in programming mode. 7. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature down keypad once more. 8. The control panel will display the current program code. It should be the same one that I asked you to find in Step 1. 9. If the program code is the correct one, exit the programming mode by closing the refrigerator doors. 10. If the program code is not the correct one for your refrigerator, press the Refrigerator Temperature Up or Down to change the value with each keypress. 11. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up or Down to select the next digit. 12. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer Temperature down keypad until the program code begins flashing, indicating that it's been saved. 13. Again, when you're done, exiting the program mode is done by closing the refrigerator doors. Hope this helps alot of people out there. I'm not sure what the problem is at Maytag, but they're extremely slow in getting parts shipped for their units. The local Maytag repair people have indicated to me that they are seeing an overwhelming number of Maytag refrigerators needing repairs that are around the one year age range. They say the quality of the new units is terrible.

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