Question about Refrigerators
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The compressor is locked up. Basically it is stuck. You can pick up at the local appliance parts store a hard start relay, Home Depot ,Lowes, or or those guys wont have it. Its not too expensive and is worth trying because your only other option is you need to replace the compressor. The part is called a kick start or hard start, the guy at the parts store will know what you are talking about. It is simple to connect and has the wiring directions on it. Sometimes this is all it takes. I have been able to get a stuck compressor to go by placing a short 2x4 on it and whack it with a hammer a few times. This is only a temporary fix though, as it will eventually lock up again, but emergency situation this saved the food. If the fridge has a fan back there make sure it works too, it may have been the original cause. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 26, 2007
As I mentioned before my Maytag was doing the same thing, I called Maytag expecting a big fight but they were really nice about it.
This is a recall problem and even if your warrenty is up Maytag will repair it at NO COST to you.
They shiped me the HV board and sent a repairman who had it fixed in about 10 minutes with a newley designed HV board.
Posted on Mar 30, 2008
you can check the bulb's resistance if they still have. they could be both busted. if they have, the problem could come from thre door switch if you have mechanical door switches that controls bulbs. on the LED read outs, you could have a loose connection to the main board because if the board is not functioning well, then you should not have a cooling refrigerator.
please rate me, i hope i was able to solve your problem.
Posted on Jul 16, 2008
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 04, 2016 | Maytag Refrigerators
Nov 28, 2015 | Refrigerators
Apr 15, 2015 | Maytag Refrigerators
Mar 07, 2015 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Sep 29, 2014 | Refrigerators
Jul 16, 2014 | GE GSS22IFR Side by Side Refrigerator
Apr 21, 2012 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
Aug 01, 2010 | GE Profile 21.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
Feb 13, 2010 | Refrigerators
Mar 03, 2007 | Maytag MFI2568AES Stainless Steel Bottom...
Jun 18, 2018 | LG Refrigerators
52 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!