Question about Hayward S220t Top Mount Pro Series Sand Filter 22" Tank Include Top Mount Valve

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I have a Hayward vari-flo XL valve on my filter. The handle turns freely and does not "click-in" the spokes like it used to. I last thought I was on filter selection and notice after about 10 minutes that I was draining water to waste! Do I need to take it apart to lubricate or something and how do I do it??? Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Problem with vari-flo multipoer 1.5 and Hayward DE fiilter

You need a rebuild kit for the valve and possible a sand change. Sand should be changed ever 3 - 5 years or so depending on overall pool conditions.

The gasket inside the valve is out of place and therefore allowing water to leak out the waste port. Use a gokit to replace all the gasket/orings and you should stop the leak.

If the flow is still bad, inspect the sand and change it if necessary.

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

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SOURCE: Hayward vari flo valve

It will not be glued, it is just stuck in there good. You will need to scrape, pull, twist or otherwise convince it to come out as best you can and then clean the area well before installing the new one.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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SOURCE: problems with hayward vari flow valve.

It sounds like you might just need to replace your valve. They are fairly inexpensive. Try contacting this company. They will be able to tell you exactly what you need to do (free advice) and will have the parts necessary if you do need to buy a new pool filter or new parts.

Backyard City Pools 888-751-0101 or

Just let them know that you need to speak with the person in charge of pools. He will be able to help.

Posted on May 24, 2010

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SOURCE: installing vari flo top mount

There is a gap at the ends; about 3/16 to 1/4" give or take. Just hand tighten them and if the valve leaks a little tighten them a little more at a time to avoid splitting the clamps by overtightening.


Posted on Jun 07, 2011

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SOURCE: There is about 20 -

Hi Jana,

When you back wash your pool you are sending the flow of water from your pump 'backward' through the filter to clean the debris which the filter has removed during operation. Normally, the water enters the top of the filter and exits the bottom to return to the pool, clean. Back washing reverses this process. During back wash, water enters the bottom of the filter and exits the top (with the dirt) and goes to waste. This debris and the water used to wash the dirt away goes to 'waste' ... out of the pool. This is not a problem in the usual sense, it is how the system works, and yes, it is removing water from the pool.

BTW, you don't want to back wash unnecessarily as you are sending money out of the pool when you do this. How so? You paid for the water, you paid to clean it, and you bought the chemicals to put into that water to make it suitable for swimming, (Chlorine, Acid, Soda, Cyanuric Acid, Calcium, Sequestering Agent, etc.), AND you may be paying to dispose of it through sewer charges - and you will have to replace the water and the chemicals you removed during the back wash. If you heat your pool, you also have the expense of heating the replacement water. Thus, you want to keep back wash operations to the minimum required. There should be a sight glass (clear plastic section pipe about 2 inches long) in your waste line. As you back wash, observe the water being sent to waste. When the water in the sight glass becomes clear, you have cleaned the dirt out of the filter. If there is no sight glass in the waste line, discuss this with your pool service company on their next regular visit. If you have no sight glass at this time, I would expect your filter will be cleaned within a few minutes - 5 min MAX. A 1.5 HP pump will move about 50 to 70 gallons per minute while a 2 HP pump will move 60 to 80 gallons per minute, FYI. If you are on a metric system, you can do the approximate rate conversions. With a 1.5 HP motor, in three minutes you have sent about 150 gallons through the filter to waste. You will be able to determine the time required by observing the pressure at the end of each cycle. If 2 minutes of back wash returns the pressure to the start (15# or 20# in our example below), that is what you should use, two minutes of back wash time. Make sense? Please always allow the motor to remain stopped for at least 15 sedonds when you shut it off - before you restart it. This will assure the motor has actually stopped before you start it again. Why? If there is air pressure in the filter, this will cause the pump to run backward for a short period of time. If it is running backward and you start it, you will spin the center out of the impeller and it will have to be replaced.

Normally, when you vacuum, you shouldn't send that water to waste, rather, that water should be filtered and returned to the pool. Why? Why not? The filter job is to remove the dirt from the water, keep the clean water, send it back to the pool.

The only time you must back wash is when you observe an increase in the typical low reading of 10 PSI. If your clean filter operated at 20 PSI, you will notice the pressure will increase as time passes. In this case, when your pressure gets to 30 PSI, that is an indication you need to back wash. Make sense? If your filter operated at 15 when clean, you would clean the filter at 25 PSI. Operating a 'dirty' filter costs you more money through increased effort on the part of the pump to make the water go through the filter. So don't try to save money by not cleaning the filter.

Depending on the size of your pool and the amount of dirt it typically collects, this time frame may be daily or up to a week or more between back washings.

BTW, you should turn your multi-port handle ONLY in a clock-wise direction to avoid damaging the spider gasket inside.

I hope you find this information helpful. If you have additional questions or concerns, tack a comment onto this question and I will try to assist you in what ever way I can. I am a Certified Pool Operator and I have operated a commercial facility for more than 10 years.

Thank you for your interest in Please remember to evaluate this response. Thank you. Now, I am off to the job.

Posted on Jul 20, 2011

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If the spider gasket in the vari-flo valve is no good, you will usually notice one of two problems.

1. Water leaking out backwash port while filter is operating.
2. Valve positions are really difficult to change.

The way to check this is if you are able to move one or two of the "spokes" in the gasket freely(out of the track it sits in) once the top of the valve is removed.

If so you need to replace. The gasket is usually held in with a silicone sealant. Once you remove the old gasket. You will need to scrape any remaining rubber from the track it sits in. I've found that a brass brush from a pluming supply store or home depot along with a flat head screwdriver is usually enough to do the removal.
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