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I have a GE Profile Pss26sgpa and compressor not working. Replaced defrost thermostat, defrost heater I also checked the cap its good and cleaned condenser coil, also condenser fan stays on. Is the next step the overload and or ptcr relay? please help Jim

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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suisboy
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SOURCE: GE refrigerator profile arctica Not cooling frige or freezer PTS25LBMARBB

well if the compressor dont have power so how could it work or cool?

Posted on Jan 16, 2008

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aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Refrigerator does not cool.

Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .

Posted on Oct 11, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: compressor cycles on overload checked run cap it

The way I check compressor problems is : If it kicks off on the overload , remove the overload / relay . Check all 3 terminals with the meter set on beep . Also , check each terminal to any part of the copper compressor lines . A beep there would indicate a shorted compressor . I would then replace the overload / relay ( wiring correctly with the capacitor ) and connect an amp meter to the overload wire . Plug in the refrig and check the compressor run amps . New compressors usually run 0.7 amps . If the compressor runs anywhere above 2.5 amps , then a lot of wear is on it and not much longer life . I never use a 3 in 1 due to these are only a partial fix and will not last long . Actually , If a refrig comes into the shop , these are jerked off the compressor and thrown away . I consider 3 in 1 absolute junk and frown on any technician using them . Refrigerators come to our shop ( we pick up from lowes , home depot trade ins ) and I've thrown many away , which also means they cannot be permanently used .

Posted on Aug 02, 2010

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2 Answers

Why is mt GE Profile PSC25sgsc ss not cooling


Most likely the=> Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055 and High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069 need to be replaced. Heater is burned out. High Limit Thermostat WR50X10069
Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X10055
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Refrigerator stopped cooling. Defrosted for 24 hrs. Plugged back in. Dan runs bit does not cool. Compressor or thermometer or sensor? Cannot find serial number. Ge profile about 25 years old


If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.

The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.
So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2

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If it's cutting off at too high a temperature it is a good possibility the probe is faulty. However if the compressor is not cutting off at all, suspect short of gas.

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GE Profile side by side 7 years old Not cold when I came home Cleaned a screen thing, round with a fan on it in the back. Where are the cooling coils. Keeps going into thaw mode 3.o lbs. Is this...


its either the ptc overload on the compressor thats shut down the compressor,or if the inner freezer back wall is frosted over then its the defrost heater or thermostat on the evaporator coil,the heater on these is very prone to burn out,its a glass tube heater about 12" long and the part # is AP3183311 at appliance parts pros for about $50.00

May 19, 2011 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

1 Answer

GE profile freezer and fridge not cooling


this unit has a control board on it ...the first few things you need to check if the unit is still plugged in... do you have any frostg build up on back wall inside freezer... if you do it tells me compressor is still running and most likely you have a defrost issue either the heater,defrost thermost or the defrost board is bad.... if no frost build up you need to gain access to the rear of unit is the compressor coming on should be able to here it or put your hand on it and it will be hot...
if not running you could have a bad thermostat or the actually main control board has failed.. if it is running check all your fans inside freezer and down by compressor are they working... hope this helps repost with more info

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1 Answer

What is the resistance of the defrost thermostat at below 30^ or at the point that the heater should come on? Also what is the resistance of the thermostat at room temprature? It appears on the schematic...


When the defrost thermostat is below 40 deg F, the resistance should read close to zero ohms. Above 40 deg F, it should read open. It sounds that yours is defective and replacing it should fix your defrost problem. The way it should work, is when the defrost timer shuts down the compressor and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater heats up the coil until it reaches 40 deg F, and then the thermostat opens and cuts the power to the heater so not to over heat the freezer. After the 45 minute defrost, the compressor kicks back on to resume the cooling cycle again. Hope this helps you.

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Model PTS25LBMARWW GE refrigerator not defrosting


Two posibe reasons.
First the defrost heater is damage and need to be replaced. This is the most frequent problem and heater cost only about $32.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=219674&diagram_id=21697826#d21697826

Second most serious but rear is the electronic control board is faulty and does not give the instruction or power to heater to heat up and melt frost. Need to be replace this is ruther expensive part about $132.
see link
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=219674&diagram_id=21697831#d21697831

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Your defrost system is at fault.
With this brand it is most likely the defrost thermostat and defrost heater located behind the back freezer panel.
Remove the shelves and bin,then remove the freezer panel. Defrost the ice manually.
Replace the thermostat and heater assembly.

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With that model that is a sign that defrost is not happening on time or the beginning of the problem. Temperatures in fresh food compartment above 38 are not safe. Look into the back of the freezer compartment and let me know if you see a frost line buildup. If yes it would be a good idea to manually defrost the freezer so you can remove the rear panel and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. It's also important that with this model that the problem be resolved quickly. I can help you if you want. The defrost heater will be easy to see if burned out because it has a glass tube around the heating element. If you replace the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Fan motors going bad on that refrigerator seem to always damage the control board and if the board is replaced the the fan motor should also. Let me know if you want me to help you, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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