Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Refrigerator does not cool.
Ok , I'll help you .
Pull the refrig out from the wall , and unplug . Remove the 8 " X 10 " panel on the back of the refrig . Inside this panel , is the main control board .
Remove the blue plug with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and remove about 1/4 inch of insulation , from both ends . Insert 1 end of the wire , into the slot of wire2 , and the other end , into wire3 .
Plug the refrig back in .
After about 2 min , look inside the freezer , behind the bottom crisper , and look for a red glow . This glow , is the defrost heater .
If no glow , this is an indication of a shorted defrost heater , or bad defrost thermostat , both of which are located behind the rear freezer panel . Unplug the refrig , and reinstall the blue connector , and the 8 x 10 panel .
The pt # for the heater is WR51X10101 , and the part number for the defrost bimetal is WR50X10068 . Both should be replaced . The heater is at the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws , and the thermostat , is clipped on the top right of the coils , with a blue and pink wire going to it .
If you do see a red glow , reasemble as above , and remove the rear inside freezer panel . At the top of the coils , on the left , you will see 2 white wires attached to a 1 " piece , which is clipped to the coils . This piece is the # 4 thermistor ( evaporator thermistor ) . Pt # WR55X10025 . Also replace the # 5 thermistor , ( freezer thermistor ) which is at the bottom of the panel , slid into a holder , also with 2 white wires going to it . Both thermistors , sent readings of temp , by coldness resistance , to the main control board , which then decides if it needs to defrost , or cycle off due to coldness reached .
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
The way I check compressor problems is : If it kicks off on the overload , remove the overload / relay . Check all 3 terminals with the meter set on beep . Also , check each terminal to any part of the copper compressor lines . A beep there would indicate a shorted compressor . I would then replace the overload / relay ( wiring correctly with the capacitor ) and connect an amp meter to the overload wire . Plug in the refrig and check the compressor run amps . New compressors usually run 0.7 amps . If the compressor runs anywhere above 2.5 amps , then a lot of wear is on it and not much longer life . I never use a 3 in 1 due to these are only a partial fix and will not last long . Actually , If a refrig comes into the shop , these are jerked off the compressor and thrown away . I consider 3 in 1 absolute junk and frown on any technician using them . Refrigerators come to our shop ( we pick up from lowes , home depot trade ins ) and I've thrown many away , which also means they cannot be permanently used .
Posted on Aug 02, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 01, 2015 | GE Profile 26.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...
If there is no cooling
at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the
compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you
clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good
indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
The ventilation fan that
circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost
and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the
frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove
the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the
heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.
So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.
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