Freezer is working, fridge is cycling between 34 and 57 to 60 degrees, stays warm for long periods, 12 hr to a day, then may suddenly return to 34 degrees. I may try the unplug all wire idea, for oxidation, worth a try. From some things i have read it may be a pba main issue? I tried to locate a pba main, for a cost estimate, seems they are no longer available? Thanks for any light you can shed on this issue! Alan
I had the same problem, I removed the shelves and the lower panel behind the shelves...Behind it their was a radiator like contraption, it was ENGULFED WITH ICE......I used a hair dryer to melt the Ice , and the problem went away....Thats all I can offer you...
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The self defrost mechanism is not working. The evaporator is getting blocked with ice, an insulator, and that affects freezer as well as refrig temps. When you unplug unit the ice melts and it will work till the ice block returns.
Possible that there is block on the air passage from the freezer fan which can be due to frost or failure of the fan.You need to check if there is free flow from the fan, also the setting of the fridge temperature.
the freezer should be arond -20 degrees celcius and the fridge aroud 5 degrees celcius
There could be a problem with air flow
the fan in the freezer has probably stopped or the air flow into the fridge is probably blocked
You could have a defrost problem. this would allow ice to build up in the freezer blocking off ai flow.
A technician can help you with that
Good day, That's too long a period, for a normal. defrost system failure. You'll have to wait until it quits, then remove the rear panel and look for ice (not frost) building up somewhere in the freezer compartment. I have solved similar problems on this model, by replacing the defrost thermostat with a GE 60 degree thermostat, and a WR9X330 GE 6 hour defrost timer to get this model to defrost completely.
It's also possible that the refrigerant charge is slightly low, causing the defrost thermostat not to reach a cold enough temperature to perform a good defrost cycle. (building ice over a long period of time).
Make sure Freon 12 was used when replacing the compressor. Some substitutes caused the evaporator coil to act as if it was slightly low on charge.
the problem is going to more then likely in the main control board which is on the back of the refrigerator in a little compartment this board is bad about going out if you have power surges or outages
It does sound like the normal defrost cycle. Aslong as it stays at an average below 12 degrees it is normally working fine. Check to make sure the back air vents and front grille are clean and the fan by the compressor is running when the unit is on. It has to get rid of the heat so it will freeze.
Solution Found! The problem is when the temperature surrounding the
refrigerator in the garage falls to < 45 degrees, the thermostat
regulating the refrigerator will not call for the compressor to kick in
to provide cooling (it's temperature requirements are being met). Since
there is no demand, the compressor will not cycle, which is how the
freezer is kept cold, and the freezer eventually warms up to match the
refrigerator temperature. Frigidaire makes a "Cold Kit" that I ordered
and installed from RepairClinic.com for $22 (Item
#: 1037646; Description: Garage kit). It's basically a strip heater
that runs off the control power to warm the thermostat and causes the
compressor to cycle once to twice a day to keep the freezer frozen.
After installation, the refrigerator stays at 40-45 and the freezer
stays around 0 degrees.