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Mitsubishi magna TR 2.6 SOHC(4G54)Engine will crank but won't start when it is hot.I wonder if the cooling temperature sensor is giving some problem that it won't start the cooling fan

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: help with my mitsubishi magna 1994

Could be a few things.If you check radiator fan and its ok move down to the thermal power switch usualy at the bottom of the radiator.Make sure you have power in and out of the swich when the engine is at operating temp.Use a test light/probe easy to use and cheap to buy.If the switch is ok the next step is the relay in the box with lid next to the battery.Sometimes just pulling the relay out and putting back in will fix the problem due to poor contact.To sum up its usualy the thermal temp switch but check every thing else before wasting money on the wrong things.Good luck

Posted on Nov 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Location of temperature sensor on Mitsubishi WS-65907

It's been a little over a month, since your post, hopefully you have your problem resolved. If not, perhaps I can help. I'll call my response a SWAG rather than a WAG, so I hope it's helpful to you. First of all, let me answer your question, I'm not aware of any temperature sensor in that model. Less than 2 months ago I got a WS-65907 with a power problem. When I turned the TV on, the green power on light would come on for a few seconds then it would go off. The problem was a couple of pico fuses (5amp) and the convergence IC's. One of the IC's was shorted and that's what was blowing the fuses. Anyway, the IC's run hot, they are on a large heatsink. You may be able to purchase some thermal paste from Radio Shack, etc and put it on the back of your IC to help dissipate the heat. It's good that you're getting a 1-2 error code which indicates no error detected. In my research on the Internet, I read that Mitsubishi didn't put enough of the themal compound on the back of the chips and that's what caused them to eventually go bad.
If you've removed the front panel (and you can see past the neck of the 3 tubes) you should be able to see the vicinity of the IC's. they are located on the Middle board, they are attached to a metal heat sink (approx 4"X 8") the IC chips have a narrow metal strip holding them onto the heat sink. You may also consider getting some freeze spray that can be put on electronics. It may be useful in determining if this is your problem area. If so, you may luck out by applying some paste to increase the thermal transfer and keep the chips running cooler. Good luck with your TV.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 93 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Caravan-Engine cooling fans not running, replaced temperature sensor and fan relay, still not working-HELP

Did you replace the sensor by the thermostat in the engine block or the one under the drivers headlight, There are two, the one next to the thermostat controls the temp gauge in the vehicle. the one under the headlight assembly controls the actual fans and is a electronic module. You have to remove the head light assembly to get to it.


Posted on May 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1992 Ford Taurus with a 3.8l V6 the cooling fan

The Taurus has Two temp sensors. One for the dash, which is isolated, then one for the PCM, it also controls when the fan relay should actuate. Its a 2 wire sensor, just above the thermostat. If you remove the harness from that sensor, and the cooling fan comes on, at any temp, (should take 5- 10 seconds) then thats your fault.

Posted on Mar 11, 2010

  • 2431 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0 SOHC No

You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm

Posted on Aug 21, 2011

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If for instance you have a siezed alternator preventing the starter motor from starting the engine, (not uncommon), - and you just want to "get the Magna home from the shops", or get to the nearest repair shop, do what the Australian Road Service operarors do, and cut it off with a pair of cable sheers or a sharp trimming knife. Watch the temperature guage on the way home though. Shut it down and park it somewhere to let it cool completely before starting out again as soon as the temperature gets above your normal running temperature. Without the fan and waterpump running, the engine temperature will skyrocket, and you'll be up for replacement if you cook it.

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