Yesterday in the middle of an outdoor shoot images started to appear black from the bottom up to 3/4 the way to the top of the image. See below for an example. I did not change the lens between the time the camera was taking normal photos and the time it switched to these. There was no gradual shift to this condition. I have since tested it with another lens and the problem persists.
The blacked out part is the bottom of the photo therefore the obstruction is at the top of the frame on the camera.
Try the camera on the BULB setting without a lens on & look into the throat of the camera. You should see what is not clearing the CCD completely.
It could be the sub-mirror which is a little mirror behind the main one for the AF function or a shutter blade not clearing enough.
I would go for the first one.
It could be because.....
1. the sub-mirror spring coming off or broken
2. the sub-mirror is glided by a post on the side of the mirrorbox & this could of come adrift.
Most repairers can deal with this fault. If the spring has come adrift you should be able to pop it back in place.
All this may not solve your problem but it will at least give you better idea of what you are dealing with.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Did you try pressing the display button several times? in both viewing mode and record mode? Cycle through all display modes, s you get used to the button, so it does not trow you off when it happens again.
The spots are caused by the flash being SO close to the lens. Anyobject that can reflect the flash reflects it right back at the camera. This is an image problem with most point and shoot digitals. Watch forreflective surfaces and stand at an angle to them. Turn on more lightsin the room before using flash. Most indoor pictures start way too dark. Stand at a slight angle to the image orperson you are photographing - don't shoot straight on. (I kneel downand shoot up - makes a good shot too.) If you are shooting toward the sun lit side of an image, shield the lens from direct sunlight with your hand (Keep your hand out of the picture!) A professional photographer has the flash way away from the lens for a reason...
higher iso settings allow you to use a faster shutter speed. This can be extermely helpful when handholding your camera, especially with the telephoto end of some zoom lenses on small digital cameras. Faster shutter speed will also freeze action better.
automatic white balance can be useful for shooting quickly in changing light conditions; however I rarely select auto as my standard. the auto setting often gives inconsistent results simply because it is an auto function that is making the best of a world that varies in terms of color and light.
A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so,please see this linkfor further info and a simple fix that may help. By the way, recommend trying the pencil tapping method described in this article for a stuck "open" shutter.
Most likely it is dirt/dust on inside the lens. If it is in the bottom of the picture, the dirt will be on the top edge of the lens. If it is inside the lens, you will probably not be able to clean it your selves.
learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge. the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem. once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced. good luck mark