Yesterday in the middle of an outdoor shoot images started to appear black from the bottom up to 3/4 the way to the top of the image. See below for an example. I did not change the lens between the time the camera was taking normal photos and the time it switched to these. There was no gradual shift to this condition. I have since tested it with another lens and the problem persists.
The blacked out part is the bottom of the photo therefore the obstruction is at the top of the frame on the camera.
Try the camera on the BULB setting without a lens on & look into the throat of the camera. You should see what is not clearing the CCD completely.
It could be the sub-mirror which is a little mirror behind the main one for the AF function or a shutter blade not clearing enough.
I would go for the first one.
It could be because.....
1. the sub-mirror spring coming off or broken
2. the sub-mirror is glided by a post on the side of the mirrorbox & this could of come adrift.
Most repairers can deal with this fault. If the spring has come adrift you should be able to pop it back in place.
All this may not solve your problem but it will at least give you better idea of what you are dealing with.
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to an Expert (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Surf the site with patience. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Line, faults & possible causes to both Plasma & LCD screen are given with illustrations. You can get an idea about the fault to an extent.
Did you try pressing the display button several times? in both viewing mode and record mode? Cycle through all display modes, s you get used to the button, so it does not trow you off when it happens again.
A stuck shutter is another common failure mode for digital cameras. The symptoms of a stuck or "sticky" shutter are very similar to CCD image sensor failure. The camera may take black pictures (for shutter stuck closed), or the pictures may be very bright and overexposed, sometimes with lines, especially when taken outdoors (for shutter stuck open). To confirm a stuck shutter, put the camera in any mode other than "Auto", and turn the flash OFF (you don't want to blind yourself for the next step). Next look down the lens and take a picture. You should see a tiny flicker in the center of the lens as the shutter opens and closes. If no movement is seen, then you likely have a stuck shutter. If so,please see this linkfor further info and a simple fix that may help. By the way, recommend trying the pencil tapping method described in this article for a stuck "open" shutter.
This is called "vignetting". To me it sounds like your lens hood isn't mounted correctly. If you don't turn it on all the way, exactly this will happen, because the longer "leaves" on the hood shadows the edges of the frame.
So, try to turnt the hood all the way on. You might have to use a little bit of force, as the hoods can be hard to turn sometimes.
Hope this helps!
learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge. the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem. once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced. good luck mark