Question about Krups Small Appliances Espresso Machine

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We have a Krups KP1010 pod brewing machine which has not been used for a couple of years. We filled the reservior with water, set the control for 2 cups (6 oz.), and pushed the on/off button. When the brew button stopped flashing, we pushed the brew button. We could hear the brewing starting but then it stopped and the brew button started flashing again. Do you know what's wrong? Does the filter in the water reservoir need to soak for awhile - or be replaced? Krups doesn't seem to carry this model anymore...

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Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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  • Krups Master
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The most posibble problem from your description but since usualy happents when the machine stay in the store for long time is that the vibrating pump and ot other parts like valves, boiler have been stuck and goggled from dry calcium which were in the all water sytem parts of the machines.
When you keep themachine frequntly used you are avoding this situation.
Now the machine need to completely desasemble and every one of the above parts must be cleaned with a wire brush so the calcium layer move out. If you used to decalcify the machine often before put in in the store then their is a big chance that you will need only to clean parts. However if you did not decalcify offten then you might need to replace some parts like boiler thermoblock which due to the costruction it can not be recover bck to its original condition.
So if you are not able to do the above your self then we strongly advice to get a quate before proceeding with maintnance since if it is more than half the replacement cost with a new machine then we advice to proceed with replacement.
Good luck and thanks for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 01, 2010

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1 Answer

We have a Krups Nespresso machine that cuts out within seconds, even with no pod in place. It works by holding the button down constantly but could this damage the machine?


To programme the quantity you would normally hold the button down continuously for as long as it takes to fill your cup to the required level. Next brew you make should require a single touch & release it should then flow through as much water as the previous cup and then stop automatically. If it's not holding the programme I can't see any harm in holding the button down until the cup is full.

Oct 10, 2016 | Krups Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines

1 Answer

Water does not seem to be getting to the heating area


I'm not sure if your saying it does not brew a cup of coffee at all or it is brewing but only cold water comes out. If it is just sitting there making a whinning noise and not delivering water it may just be dirty. To clean it you need to fill the resivior with a 50% white viniger and 50% water mixture. Run a brew cycle and let it sit for an hour. Then run several cycles through until it is out, refill the resivior with water only, run it completely through and continue with the water only until there is no more viniger smell or tatse. You will need to clean the brewer needle heads as well. Lift the handle to access the coffee pod compartment, remove the pod basket and use a paper clip to clean out the hole in the puncture needle. With the lever still raised, use the paper clip to clean out the three holes in the upper needle head. Replace the pod basket, close the handle and run a couple brew cycles through without a coffee pod.

Nov 24, 2010 | Keurig B100 Coffee Maker

1 Answer

POD FILTER IS CLOGGED UP FROM YEARS OF USE AND WATER FLOW IS IMPARED


HAVE YOU TRYED TO USE VINEGAR, FILL WITH IT AND RUN IT HALF WAY THEN LET IT SIT FOR A FEW HOURS THEN TURN IT BACK ON UNTIL IT IS DONE, THEN RUN CLEAN WATER TWO TIME AND THIS SHOULD CLEAN IT OUT

Nov 13, 2009 | Toastmaster Melitta One:One Javapod Pod...

1 Answer

Espresso maker won't brew.


Most likely it is an internal problem, such as a broken valve or nozzle.

Oct 01, 2009 | Krups Allegro FND111 Espresso & Coffee...

1 Answer

Unit will not brew when pod is inserted; works w/o pod however.


This may be one of two issues:
1. The pump is malfunctioning which can cause the internal reservior to not completely fill which causes issues during brewing. My unit dribbled random amounts of water instead of brewing for about a week before the pump died completely.
2. The puncture seal isn't in the right position. Open the Keurig fully so you can see the sharp puncture pin. Very Carefully push the black rubber gasket around it all the way up. Then pull it back down about 1/16". Brew a cup, if the problem continues, try sliding the gasket further down by increments of 1/32".

May 29, 2009 | Keurig Ultra In Home Single Cup Brewer...

1 Answer

I fill the resavior w/ water for a 12 cup Mr. Coffee and 2 1/2 cups evaporate while going through the motion and delivering less and less each time. I ran vinigar & water through 3 X's to no avail.


Are u sure that the water is still not in the reservior? After the partial brew, CAREFULLY check / empty the reservior for the missing water. If it's still there, then u probably have a clogged perculator hole at the bottom of the reservior.

I just figured out how to correct a slow / partial brew problem for a 4 cup Mr. Coffee that left the water in the reservior...I have been using paper towels and napkins to dry the reservior and cover after use, and apparently bits 'n pieces of paper clogged the tiny little hole at the bottom of the reservior that the hot water perculates through

Multiple vinegar/CLK flushes may eventually desolve this paper clot, but I used my vacuum cleaner with slat attachment to **** the paper clot out.

Aug 29, 2008 | Mr. Coffee 072179228578 12 Cup Coffee...

1 Answer

We have a Krups KP1010 Pod Brewing machine. The brew button is stuck and is blinking, but will not brew coffee. How can I reset?


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

May 08, 2008 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

2 Answers

KP1010 Blue light blink really fast


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

Oct 22, 2007 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

1 Answer

Lid won't open - coffee won't


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

Oct 22, 2007 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

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