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Just replaced the heating element to my Kenmore dryer...still no heat. Does this sound like the thermostat sensor on the side of the element housing is defective?

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Absolutely; Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer, on the blower or along side of the heater box. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

  • Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

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My maytag lde8824ace dryer has stopped heating. i replaced the heat element assembly about an hour ago and still no heat. vents and ducting are clear. dryer run as normal. was wondering if it was a...


The heating circuit is composed not just by the heating element alone but also the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing including the four-terminal cycling thermostat on the blower housing and the motor centrifugal switch. The most prudent thing to do first when a heating problem is experienced is by checking the continuity of these parts and making sure the dryer is getting 220VAC supply. Note that the dryer works both on 110VAC for the controls and drive motor while the 220VAC is solely for the heating circuit. The 110VAC supply may be present which will make the dryer run but the 220VAC may not be present and consequently there's no heat at all.

Check the circuit breaker including the power outlet and make sure the dryer is being supplied with 220VAC. Check the continuity of the components located on the blower housing and the heating element housing. All of those components must have continuity for the heating element to turn on. Note that the cycling thermostat has four terminals. Continuity check must be done between the two outer and "thick" terminals. Replace the part found to have no continuity and as a preventive measure, it is necessary to also replace the other part that comes side-by-side with the faulty part.

Aug 21, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

How do i change the high limit thermostat on a kenmore dryer # 72822


Unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. Slide the dryer out from the wall and disconnect the dryer vent from the back of the dryer. Loosen the retaining screw on the clamp connecting the vent to the dryer's exhaust port and slide the vent off of the port.
Remove the hex nuts holding the dryer's rear panel in place and slide the rear panel off to the side of the dryer. Locate the high-limit thermostat on the heating element housing on the right side of the dryer. The oval-shaped thermostat can be found a few inches from the bottom of the heating element housing.
Unplug the two thermostat wires by sliding them off of the thermostat's contact posts. Slide the old thermostat out of the socket on the heating element housing.




Mar 12, 2011 | Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer

1 Answer

My frigidaire dryer LEQ642DS0 will not shut off by itself, would that be the timer or the knob? Also if it is the timer, is the kenmore/frigidaire part #131062300 (timer) compatable with my dryer


Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Phillips and hex nut screwdrivers
* Replacement thermal fuse
* Replacement thermostat

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet.
2. Slide a putty knife between the top panel and front panel on the left side. Slide the knife toward the center of the dryer to release the left-side spring clip. Repeat the process on the right side. Lift the top panel up and rotate toward the back of the dryer. The thermal fuse and thermostat are located along the dryer's back wall, attached to the heating element housing.
3. Disconnect the two wires from the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is an inch-long rectangular plastic part, located near the top of the heating element housing. Remove the screw holding the thermal fuse in place. Remove the old fuse. Place a new fuse on the housing and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires to the fuse.
4. Remove the wires on the thermostat. The thermostat is a black, oval-shaped part located just below the thermal fuse. Remove the screws holding the thermostat in place and slide it out of its slot on the heating element housing. Slide a new thermostat into the slot and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires.
5. Lower the dryer's top panel and press down until the spring clips lock into place. Plug the dryer back into the electrical outlet.

Feb 24, 2011 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer rotates, but there is zero heat. Kenmore Series 80, model 0104806


First check your breakers in the power box to the house. If one the the legs is tripped, the cylinder will turn but will not heat. Next, check the thermostat switches near the heating element for continuity. If no continuity, replace them. Check heating element for continuity. If no continuity, replace.

Aug 08, 2010 | Kenmore 84052 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer 110-86094110 wont heat. Heating


Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.

Vic

Jun 28, 2009 | Dryers

2 Answers

My Kenmore electric dryer runs but no heat ....


Before I wish you luck i want you to review all of the possible reasons for your problem

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

May 29, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer won't heat


ok you moving in right direction but you jumped a step,,you already checked the thermal cut offf and the operating thermostat,,those where the two on the side of the heater housing,,you should have checked the thermal fuse and the thermistor,,they are on top of the blower wheel housing tuck a lttle to the left,,since you seem that you know what your doing just jump them out starting with the thermal fuse,,,keep me posted on the job

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer


If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

Mar 17, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

3 Answers

Heating element


The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.

Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.

CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.

PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.

Feb 23, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Electric Dryer


If this is a Kenmore, have you checked the thermal cut-out or high-limit thermstat? Does the drum turn when you start the dryer?

If the drum turns, but does not heat, you will need to check the thermal cut-out (located on the heating element housing). The TCO should read a SHORT (0 ohms) or very low resistance. If it is OPEN, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat. In most cases the two components are sold as a set and are recommended to replaced as a set by the manufacturer.

Reason: The TCO is designed to protect the heating element and thermostat in the event of an overtemp condition. If the TCO is bad, there's a likely chance that the thermostat could be damaged.

If the TCO reads good, you may have a thermostat that is failing. The high limit thermostat operates normally in the CLOSED (shorted) position and will OPEN at or around 157 degrees F. It is located on the heating element housing adjacent to the TCO. If the thermostat has failed the dryer will tumble, but will not heat. Follow the same recommendation as for replacement of the TCO. Replace both components as a set.

Now...if the dryer drum does not spin, the likely cause is the thermal FUSE. It will be mounted on the blower housing near the blower fan. It is usually white (plastic) in color on Kenmore models. It should read a SHORT. If it fails the dryer will not spin or heat.

Post back with your comments or questions. I hope I'm leading you in the right direction.

Jan 15, 2008 | LG WD-14124RD Front Load Washer / Dryer

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