Question about Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

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Rooftop A/C in-op. Clicks when t-stat is turned to "cool" but no fan or compressor. Breaker set, t-stat good.

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Hi,

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

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Hi, as you know the thermostat controls the unit. Here's what you need to do first. Go to your thermostat on the wall, pull off the cover. You are looking for the main control wires that come in from the back to connect to the screw terminals. Don't be afraid of shock as these are millivolt wiring connections.You say the fan shuts off but the compressor keeps running causing it to ice up. You need to get a screw driver and disconnect the wires from this stat. This should cause the compressor, fan, and all to shut down. If it does, you know that your thermostat is faulty and you will need to make your self a drawing on the wire connections, remove the stat, and you can get a new one at a RV sales and parts house.Find your breaker box where your main wiring comes in and shut off the a/c breaker if you like. Now, if the compressor keeps running after you disconnect it from the thermostat, then somewhere from the stat to the controls on the top have a hot wire that is touching somewhere causing the compressor to be energized all of the time. If you can go up top and find where this thermostat wire comes in, look it over good to see if the red is touching the yellow wire some where. I believe you just have a faulty stat at this point. Do what I asked on the stat, disconnect it completely, and we will go from there. You can get back to me by leaving a comment under my user name. Please let me know and we will take care of this problem.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, and Heating Contractor

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You need to borrow a clamp on style amp gauge, and check amp draw on black wire in box where hydro wires connect. (PLEASE, be careful, and if not experienced in this type of test, don't try it, due to likelihood of getting a shock. ) If it's the compressor kicking in that's causing the breaker to trip, and capacitor is good, then it's usually a problem with either low incoming (supply) 110-120 AC voltage, which will cause high amperage draw, or compressor on it's way out causing high amp draw. If it's only drawing 15-18 amps, and your tripping a 20 amp breaker, then breaker is getting weak.

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Good place to start checking for voltage, in and out of relay when triggered. ( careful, if not experienced with electrical, you have capacitors nearby that can zap you real bad if not familiar with them.)

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Any sound from compressor or just clicking on every setting. Did you double checked (breaker) that you have hydro (120VAC) to it?

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Sounds like the unit either has been miswired from the beginning or there is a stuck contactor relay.

The more rare scenario is that the control wire between the t-stat and the contactor is shorting to a power source causing the relay to energize. Good Luck!

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