Question about CDA Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
Posted on Aug 13, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE3 F02 error
If you checked the drain pump reservoir and the problem still persists, you may have a pump with a damaged motor/impeller, or something lodged in one of the drain lines. In particular, the drain line that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the pump.
I recommend you remove the inlet hose, first and inspect for clogs. In is common for small garments to become lodged in this area and restrict water flow to the drain pump. Check the output drain line for obstructions as well.
It does not take much to damage this small drain pumps. The error code is generated if the drain cycle exceeds 8 minutes. So...if the impeller or motor become damaged, and the pump does not pull water at the correct volume, you may still experience the drain error. In this case, you will have to replace the pump in order to get the error to clear. The following link explains how:
Replacements can be purchased at any of the following websites:
Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Mar 06, 2010
If the washer fills normally, begins the wash cycle, then stops at the spin cycle and won't drain, then you need to check your lid switch and/or lid strike. This is the most common cause of the problem you are experiencing. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
We experienced the same thing. I was able to restart and locate the noise to the water pump. After disassembling the water pump found the impeller shaft sliding out. For some reason this shaft will not stay in place. Had to order a complete pump assembly as the electric motor is not available.
Posted on Jul 13, 2010
LF = Long Fill
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
Is water supply connected and turned on?
Are hose screens plugged?
Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.
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Posted on Sep 07, 2010
Testimonial: "We followed your suggestion and disconnected the hoses and they had "gunk" in them. We flushed them out, reconnected and everything seems to be fine."
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