I have a similar PTC22S model fridge, 6 years old. Water is freezing in a puddle under the evaporator fan, causing it to stall. With no ice to stall it, fan operates normally. Fridge good at consistent 35 degrees unless/until the fan stalls. Freezer at 10 degrees unless/until the fan stalls. Of course, if the fan stalls due to the ice, things multiply quickly.
My first clue is when I can hear the fan start to work away at the ice under it. At that time, I can pull the freezer deck and the only place there is ice is under that fan!
There is no blockage of the drain/air duct down to the lower fridge compartment. You can see right down through it from above.
It's as though the timer is short cycling, allowing just enough time to start some water flow from the coils to the back, but then the water freezes up there instead of being dispersed/evaporated by the fan as it should, but I'm sure open to suggestions. Is it *possible* that for some reason, the evaporator fan isn't being turned ON during the defrost cycle, but works normally at all other times? I'm still looking for the defrost cycle timer on this beast.
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The water dispenser tube has a low wattage element to prevent the water from freezing in the tube. its normal. Check to see if the evaporator fan is running. Open the freezer door and when the fridge is running, press the switch on the side wall. The freezer light should go out and then you should hear the fan running at the back of the freezer compartment. Common symptoms of a failed fan is ice growing down the back of the freezer compartment , poor refrigeration in the food compartment and partial or poor freezing of food in the freezer. If the fridge is less than 2 years old, it will be under warranty. (Contact Castel Electronics in Melbourne 13
00733962) If its over, they can give you the name and number of a local agent. There are a lot of bits and pieces to remove to get to the fan on an ice and water model, also the rear panel inside the freezer should be removed to make sure ice hasn't blocked the air ducts. If you are not confident in doing it, get one of their agents to sort it out. Cost of fan motor, call and labour should be around $200 to $220
This is a very common problem with Samsung refrigerators especially the type that has two evaporators. The evaporator that is inside the fresh food section and will usally give people the most problems. The drain below the evaporator in the fresh food section will begin to freeze over or become blocked by gunk inside the drain line. When this happens it causes the fresh food section to retain water because with the drain blocked the moisture and defrost condensate water now have nowhere to go. Once that drain is blocked the freezing over of the evaporator will begin to happen more often slowing down defrost which again make problems worse. Clean the drain, make sure the refrigerator is level and confirm the model number of your refrigerator. Your model has no defrost timer and defrost are determined by the motherboard. There is a way to force defrost with your model from the motherboard but until the drain is cleaned out defrost will not help much because the water has no where to go but to freeze over the evaporator and fan area of the fresh food section evaporator. Is your model the?=>RF267AERS I am here if you have questions, Sea Breeze
Most times this is a bad cold control, but there are other things to check for. Make sure the condenser fan is working and the coils are not covered with dust. A separated heat exchanger ( small capillary tubing soldered to the large suction line ) can separate from one another and make the fridge run too long. - tape tubing back together. A poor working evaporator fan motor could also make the fridge run too long and freeze - replace the fan motor. An inefficient compressor or refrigeration system could make the fridge run too long and freeze - have a service tech check this out. A misaligned control settings, make sure the air damper and cold control have not been bumped and are out of normal settings. Stuck open air diffusers or air dampers are becoming more and more common for allowing too much air to be blown into the fresh food section and freezing things. On all frost free fridge's the freezer temp air is blown into the fresh food section, if you have "easy" to freeze items ( eggs, veggies in water, etc ) in front of or under where the freezer temp air comes out, they could freeze
Check the cold control, and also the air deflector. As you know, the deflector directs the freezer air toward the front of the frig and the rear of the cold control.
The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the back of the freezer.
Model # would help!. The symtoms relating could be of a # of issues depending on the design (model #). Cold control, defrost issues, non or slow moving evaporator fan, slight pressue loss (undercharge), partial restriction, extra ambiant heat.
Really need to know what motor(s) are running (compressor, evap fan inside freezer compartment, condenser fan under fridge)?? Of course, check your temperature (thermostat) settings. Side-by-sides usually have 2 of them. They should be labled for refridgerator and freezer. The freezer control usually only opens a baffle from the freezer compartment to the refridge compartment. The refrigerator temp control is the one that controls the compressor on-off cycles and the temp of refrig compartment (this keeps the refrig compartment from freezing the milk and cokes) If the freezer control/baffle is set too far open, this will cause the refrig temp control to shut off too soon for the freezer temp to get low enough. These controls can get bumped out of the correct setting accidently from time to time. To check the following, the fridge has to be running, or in a condition where it "should be" running: If compressor is running (condenser fan should be too), check if evaporator fan (inside freezer) is running. Open (freezer) door and hold door light switch in when you check evaporator fan operation (some fans stop when door is open) If it is not running you may have a bad evaporator fan motor. It could also be a bad defrost timer, causing the evaporator (also inside back of freezer) to ice-up. This blocks the air flow over evap. Also, there is a defrost terminator switch on the evaporator coil that stops the defrost cycle when coil is clear of ice/frost (but timer hasn't ended defrost cycle). If it is defective, that could also keep the fridge from going into the defrost cycle, or taking it out too soon. If it is the timer, change the defrost terminator as well. Depending on how handy you are, you may be able to check/change any of these parts yourself. If you don't know much about elecrical stuff, you should leave it to a repair tech. Hope this helps.
If you have frozen coil at the back of the freezer section, then the defrost thermostat is usually failing. Allow the fridge to defrost completely overnight. If the fridge restarts cooling immediately after defrost, then the problem was the defrost system. In that case the fridge will stop cooling again in a couple of days, as soon as the evaporator coils restart freezing and the condenser goes under stress with the whole cooling system loosing efficiency.