Heater Element Housing

hello . hope this helps . not easy but id doable , plan this when u have some time. how hard to do it yourself 1-10 id say 8
1st unplug the dryer .
remove 2 screws located in the rear top of the dryer , those screws are holding the top panel in place.
once you have removed those screws go back around to the frt of the dryer and with your hands on top of the panel push the top panel back and top panel should lift back and out.
next remove 2-3 screws holding the faceplate (display panel) to the frame , from the inside and unclip the wiring harness and set to the side. next remove 3-4 screws holding front panel to the cabinet of the dryer then reove front panel and set to the side now you can see the heating element enclose in a housing. remove a screw holding the housing and slide housing to you. disconnect the 2 connectors going to heating element. some revisions heaters slides out , some models you must remove a few screws holding element in place. Samsung does sell the heater assy witch comes all together for a few more dollars but less labor. re assemble

Hello,
on that vintage dryer the heat element was behind the rear panel. When looking at it from the rear with the back panel off it is inside of the housing on the right side. The way to remove it is to raise the main dryer top by removing the 2 phillips headed screws on the top where the lint filter fits and pop up and raise the top and from the front you can look behind the back wall the holds the drum up, from the front on the top of the housing the element fits(left side when looking at it from the front) will be a bracket that holds that heater housing to that rear drum support plate. Remove that screw(5/16th inch hexhead) and go to the back and pull housing out from top of housing then lift off from bottom.When reinstalling be sure the housing fits into bracket and the bottom of where it goes. To remove the element there will be one 5/16th inch hex headed screw at the bottom by where its opened. The part # for that style heat element is 4391960 it is available from your local appliance parts store or online at;
searspartsdirect.com
repairclinic.com
apdepot.com
apwagner.com
midwestapplianceparts.com

Thanks for bring me back to the old days i started my appliance repair career a year before you bought that dryer (1981)

I hope this has helped you with your dryer,
Gene

The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.



Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.



Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.




Note:

The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards.

The heating element is located at the rear of the dryer behind the rear access panel. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the rear access panel to the cabinet and remove the panel.


Your dryer seems not heating but it doesn't mean the heating element is busted. The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed procedures.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Phillips and hex nut screwdrivers
* Replacement thermal fuse
* Replacement thermostat

1. Disconnect the dryer from the electrical outlet.
2. Slide a putty knife between the top panel and front panel on the left side. Slide the knife toward the center of the dryer to release the left-side spring clip. Repeat the process on the right side. Lift the top panel up and rotate toward the back of the dryer. The thermal fuse and thermostat are located along the dryer's back wall, attached to the heating element housing.
3. Disconnect the two wires from the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is an inch-long rectangular plastic part, located near the top of the heating element housing. Remove the screw holding the thermal fuse in place. Remove the old fuse. Place a new fuse on the housing and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires to the fuse.
4. Remove the wires on the thermostat. The thermostat is a black, oval-shaped part located just below the thermal fuse. Remove the screws holding the thermostat in place and slide it out of its slot on the heating element housing. Slide a new thermostat into the slot and replace the screw. Reconnect the wires.
5. Lower the dryer's top panel and press down until the spring clips lock into place. Plug the dryer back into the electrical outlet.

There are two types. One is a tube heater it is located in the back of the dryer. The other is a heater located in a round casing behind the drum. If it is the latter it is easy to identify because you open the door and you can see round holes in the back of the drum over the entire back side. If it is two smaller round or oval areas with round holes it will be the tube type heater. To replace the tube type heater you will need to turn the power off to the dryer. Unhook the dryer vent and pull the dryer out so you can gain access to the rear of the dryer. The large lower panel is attached by several 5/16 hex screws around the outside edge. Remove these screws and set the back panel aside. The tube heater is located on the right hand side and is a metal housing with what will look like a very long spring inside of it. This spring type wire is a resister wire that heats up when voltage is applied to it and in the process of heating and cooling it grows and shrinks which over time causes the metal to fail and break. you will need to remove the electrical wires to the heating element. Look closely and on one end of the housing you will see a screw on the top. Remove this screw and pull the top out of the recess it is in pick up on it and then remove it by pulling the bottom out and back. The element its self is held inside the housing by a couple screws attaching it to the housing. Remove these and pull the element out of the housing. If you look closely you should see where the wire is broken. The replacement element can be put back inside of the housing and reinstalled. Make sure not to handle the new element with your hands any oil even from our hands makes hot spots on the wire and can cause premature failure. The other type of element is removed by turning off the power and you access it from the front. You will need to press the spring type retaining clips located between the top and front and are located 2 inches from each corner in the seam between the front and top of the dryer. Use a flat blade screw driver when you locate the spring clips you push the screwdriver in to undoo the clip while pulling upwards on the top or pry upwards with the screw driver. If done properly the to will just pop up. Undo both clips and then look at the bottom edge of the front and see if it has two phillips screws. They will be located about 4 inches in from each side and 1 to 2 inches up from the bottom. If they are there remove them if not continue. When the top is popped up lift it up and back to put it out of your way. There will be two wires attached to the front door area usually (as in always) located top left hand side opposite from where the door switch is located. Remove the two wires then look down about 6 nto 8 inches down from each front corner on the front these screws are 5/16 hex screws I use a 1/4 ich drive ratchett and 5/16 sockett. The space is tight but you can remove the screws. (BE CAREFUL THEY ARE EASY TO DROP) Lift up and pull the front off the dryer. You can then remove the belt on the dryer it has a tensioner pully located next to the elect motor lower left side twords the back of the dryer. Some dryers have an access door in the rear. but you can remove the belt from the tensioner from the front. Pay close attention to how the tensioner and belt go together. Then lift the drum up and out of the dryer. The element will be exsposed in the back of the dryer it too will be a long spring looking element. There is a heat limit at the top center of the element remove and save it to install on your new element. The element and shell is held on by a number of 5/16 hex screws remove these and the element will come loose from the back of the dryer. You can order the shell and element and a unit. (recomended) Or you can order the element wire and install it you have to use the ceramic/holders the wire passes thru and if you have the ability it is cheaper but I adivse ordering it prestrung. Put back in reverse order and remember to not touch the wire with your hands and always unplug or turn off the dryer. I hope this helps good luck

Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.

All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to the dryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.

Unplug it, remove the back, 1. Hi Limit (small limit upper right hand side of this pic) the most frequent problem if dryer RUNS but no heat AND you have
checked the element and found it to be good. 2. heater assembly.
3. 250f limit (if bad no heat, timer won't advance)
4. heater element
5. Fuse(350F), if blown(open) the dryer will NOT run.
(if you do not have a meter remove and inspect this heater coil for breaks).
6. control thermostat
7. heater (warms thermostat to shut it down faster for delicates)



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.

Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.

Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.

The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.

Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.

Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.

If the model number is correct, the heating element is replaced by following these steps:

1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltage still exists inside the unit even when it is shut off.

2. Turn dryer around so you can access the rear panel. Disconnect the dryer exhaust vent hose.

3. Loosen and remove all the screws around the perimeter of the rear panel. Remove panel and set aside.

4. The heating circuits will be located on the right hand side (as viewed from the rear) with the heating element located inside the heater box.

5. Remove the mounting screws that hold the heater box in place and disconnect the electrical connections (make sure you annotate where the wires go).

6. The entire heater box comes off with the element inside. Loosen the screws on the outside of the heater box that hold the element in place. With the screws removed, the element will slide out the bottom of the heater box.

Now...if the dryer is running but not heating, have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There are several factors that can cause these symptoms. Please review the following link before you assume the element is the cause:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

If you haven't done so already, it may be a good idea to double check the source voltage, followed by a check of the Hi-Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO). All these components can factor into the same symptoms you may be experiencing.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this information is helpful to you.