Ive got a bit of a problem, got a 2001 BMW e46 with an Alpine head unit and
I did have a sub and amp. Ive got a problem where when you turn the
vloume up to a certain level, when I had the sub it was anything past
19, or in a really bass'y tune somtimes lower the head unit would cut
out, the screen goes blank and it resets itself with hte volume set to
0. Id been told this could have been due to bad earth on the sub. Ive
since taken the sub out temporarily as im planning an upgrade and now
without the sub I have the same problem but with the volume at only 15
which isnt overly loud...
I have no idea what it could be, ive got an adapter converting the
BMW adapter to iso and then another adapter inbetween that to power my
nokia bluetooth car kit and provide the ability to use the tel mute
lead, im assuming this has nothing to do with it. The head unit has
done it since day 1 and my previous kenwood head unit didnt do it. Its
driving me nuts, do I have a faulty head unit or some funny wiring, ive
had it all out and put it all back together again a couple of times to
check the wiring etc.
The only think im not sure of is when you receive the standrd
wiring loom for the head unit you have the yellow and red wires which
are bullet connectors, ive got these going to red to red and yellow to
yellow, does this have something to do with it? In my old car which was
an astra I had to reverse these for the head unit to remember your
settings each time you took the key out the car.
Can someone please shed some light on my problem!!
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Providing it fits the aperture properly the only thing you may need is a special jumper cable harness that links the BMW euro standard harness to your player. Its possible the harness is right anyway but be prepared.
so you have already ensured that there are no crossed/loose wire strands.
you are running 2 subs off a single alpine mono amp.
if subs are 4 ohms apiece, you should be fine. if you have 2 ohm subs, or you have dual voice coil subs and you are running all the voice coils parallel, then there is your problem. you can have a maximum of a 2 ohm (2x4 ohm speakers= 2 ohms.) load with that amp.
ensure that the subs are 4 ohms apiece, and that you are not using dual voice coils. if the subs have 2 inputs (dual voice coils) then only use 1 input apiece.
if this is already taken care of, then your amp is defective.
did you hook this head unit up or did you have some one hook it up for you? most of the time it is that factory amp that makes it cute in and out. take the head unit out of you car and hook it up with a 12 volt power in your house or on you battary with a speaker and if it still cuts out the amp chip need to be replaced. let me know if this helped. thanks.
Kim ( Owner ) KS AUDIO www.ksaudio99.webs.com email@example.com
Remove the face, and trimring plastic. There are slots on either side that you put the Alpine unlocking keys into (came with your headunit new) then slide the chassis out. If you don't have keys - you can use a small allen wrench - or buy them at best buy etc. A local alpine dealer will probably let you borrow his keys as a good business practice.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
The CDE-9843 cannot drive a sub of the type you mention without an amp, but you can fit a sub with it's own built-in amp.
As standard, the head unit has a basic in-built amp supplying 4 x 16w RMS at 4ohms but there is the facility via the unit's own menu to turn off the in built amp and use the output sockets as a pre-amp feed, but in reality if you want to drive an amp you'd be better off to start with a more highly specified head unit to begin with, even the next model up, the CDE-9845 is better suited as there are pre-outs for front and rear speakers.
Interesting that you have a Soundstream "The Continuum" amplifier. This is limited edition of the Reference 705 amp produced with a polished aluminum (not chrome) case. You have a very hi quality - Old School - amp.
Properly installed this amp should produce more than ample volume levels and certainly far more than a stock unit.
Because the Alpine head unit provides sufficient voltage to drive the amp, it is likely either the wiring, or, the way you have it set up.
The amp has a large internal capacitor bank and for proper operation, this amp must be connected directly to your car battery, prefereably with 4 AWG. (The amp is made with 4 AWG power connections.) Use high quality speaker wire run directly from each speaker to the amp.
If you have done the above, then it is probably the way you have it set up. The amp is sophisticated with many configuration options. Do not change any switch settings while the amp is playing. Ensure you have the appropriate inputs and crossover selected. Check the gain settings.
You need to run the RCA cables from the head unit to the sub for the audio signal, and possibly a turn on wire (the blue one on the back of the head unit), unless the sub has an automatic power feature.
The sub also needs power and ground wires attached, but those do not connect to the head unit. Power should be run directly from the battery with an inline fuse, and ground should go to the nearest good ground point (Trunk latch, seat bolt, etc).
Yes, I'm sure Alpine will sell you another face but there is still the option of repairing the broken face at a good repair shop. Of course getting a new face is the easiest (read most expensive) way to get you going again.