Question about KitchenAid (KSRD22FKST) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Frost builds up on freezer coils and stopps fereezer and fridge from cooling. Suspect de-frosting not taking place. How do I fix this. Thanks Doug

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First thing to do is a full manual defrost,dry thoroughly,then restart,
check door seals for fit,and any drain holes syringe out with clorine bleach(neat) vacuum all dust from vents.then see.

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My whirpool freezer is ok but fridge not cool the fan is ok too


Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors, ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Apr 03, 2015 | Whirpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

My frost free fridge freezer is working but flashing de on the front. I'd like to know what it means


Error codes are brand (and often model) specific. "de" likely indicates something in the defrost process, especially on G.E. Check for ice build-up in the freezer cooling coil. The control board would be suspect, but must be checked to confirm the precise fault.

Oct 20, 2014 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

LG 262SQA Model fridge cannot cool


That does not look like an LG model number, but regardless, it sounds like the defrost system is not working, allowing frost to build up and block air flow over the cooling coils in the freezer (where all the cooling for the entire refrigerator takes place). Take back panel off inside freezer, melt frost / ice with a hair blower. Test for continuity through defrost heater and replace if "open". If it was OK, problem could be deftost control, or as simple as a door not fully closed at some time, allowing excessive frost build up.

Nov 18, 2011 | LG Refrigerators

1 Answer

Side by side refrigerator stopped cooling. Temp was 55 degrees in fridge when I noticed. Vacuumed back and between coils underneath. Removed lining in freezer and melted heavy frost and ice build-up...


Hi,

Sounds like the defrost timer/board may be hanging up....

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong with your refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator
Defrost Timer Problem

Water Running in refrigerator from Freezer


Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold


heatman101

Mar 24, 2011 | GE GSS22JFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

My 5 year old GE GSH22JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator recently stopped cooling. I noticed a build up of frost on the freezer, so unplugged the fridge and let the ice melt away. After this,...


The problem you describe is that your defrost circuit has failed. The fridge should stop the compressor periodically and turn on the defrost heater to melt the frost buildup. Since the frost in building up on your coils, the fan can't blow the cold air into the fridge compartment. It defrost is controlled by a module that turns on the heater. Most of these failures have to do with the defrost heating element burning out. It can be replaced by someone who has some mechanical ability.

The coil and heater is located in the back of the freezer compartment behind the panel in the back. You can obtain parts from appliance repair outlet or online like appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com.

Dec 07, 2010 | GE GSH22JSRSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

Fridge not cool enough but frosty at the back


Since you are getting frost in you frost free refrigerator, tell me that the defrost circuit has a problem. It is made of a defrost timer/module, defrost heater and defrost thermostat. What should happen is that the defrost timer should periodically turn off the compressor for about 30 minutes and turn power to the defrost heater via the thermostat. The heater is attached to the evaporator coil and melts any frost build up on those coils.

It sounds like the defrost circuit has not been working for a while because the ice build up is not allowing the air to circulate around the coils to cool the refrigerator. The typical failures to the defrost circuit are the defrost timer motor fails to advance, or the defrost heater burns out. Hope this helps you.

Jul 14, 2010 | Kenmore 64802 Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer seems to be working properly, but fridge cant keep temp


Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Mar 25, 2010 | KitchenAid KBFA25ER Bottom Freezer French...

3 Answers

Whirlpool ED22PQ, 21.7 cubic feet. Freezer is not cold. Sounds like something is trying to "click on", but nothing happens.


unplug your freezer. Move the fridge 1 foot from the wall. Wait 15 minutes and plug again . if it works good , ok . if not you will need to call the technician who will check the starting relay and the compressor

Sep 12, 2009 | Whirlpool ET4WSKXS Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Bosch Fridge Freezer: Fridge Not Cooling


Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.

The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)

Aug 24, 2009 | Bosch Classixx KGV28323 Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Sears Kenmore 16 series fridge


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Sep 05, 2008 | Refrigerators

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