Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you begin dissassembly from the tub down, you wil come to the transmission with the spindle sticking out of it. If you undo the bendable tabs all around the transmission it comes apart in two halves. Careful, its full of oil. The spindle has a plastic gear bolted to the bottom of it. It meshes with other gears in the tranny. It has sheered teath and is making the noise.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
occurs due to belt slippage. I would check your belts (look for cracks.
Check the belt tension as well, most washers have an adjustment,
normally on the motor that allows you to increase the tension of the
If part of a belt gets torn and it is long enough, it will hit any part of the washing machine within range and make a clicking noise at every revolution of the motor.
I am pretty sure you need new belts. You should be able to remove a few screws and open the back cover. Between the pulleys there is a tensioner...loosen that so you can remove the belt easily. replace it with a new belt and adjust the tension.
hope this helps
Posted on Feb 23, 2008
The noise was indeed coming from the water pump. To clean the pump on this top-loader you have to unplug it, pop the top open, and remove the front face of the cabinet to expose the motor and pump. Slip off the two metal clips hugging the pump to the motor. Place a towel under
the motor before detaching the hoses - there's a plastic drip pan between the pump and motor to guide the water away from the motor. Unclamp the
two hoses from the pump by squeezing their spring-clamps with pliers
and sliding them further down the hose. Pull the hoses off by lifting
the pump off its axle and pulling it out while wiggling the hoses
loose. I found a small sock jammed in the pump - it must have fallen to the outside
of the basket but inside the drum during the last spin cycle, and went down the drain hose.
Check the pump for damage and replace if necessary. For future troubleshooting, remember that a clogged pump causes squealing, diminished spin speed, and slow drainage.
Posted on Jun 30, 2009
I believe you must have one of the bottom of the line cheapo washers, as I do--the one with the plastic, rather than steel wash tub and basket? These are pretty poor machines. They cut corners drastically in every part of the design. I've replaced the aluminum hub that supports the spin basket ( the hub is bare aluminum and corrodes within about 5 years use from the highly alkaline detergent, then it fractures under mechanical stress. Then the motor burned out. I was able to get a nearly new motor on ebay for $90 incl. shipping. (BTW, if you need appliance parts try GOOD Appliance on ebay for new and salvaged parts--they're excellent! 100% feedback rating) However, I now have the same problem--a fairly loud knocking noise during the agitation phases of the cycle. This is cause by a really crappy transmission design that does not wear well. My advice is just ignore it as long as it works and isn't leaking oil and the tub seal is still good. If it does finally go to pieces get one on ebay--that is if you feel up to doing the job yourself since a repair person would charge more than it's worth to install it. I believe new ones can be had on ebay for about $80, some are sold with seal kits. Bottom line is--if you want a machine that will last you for 15-20 years--don't buy a cheapo model. The front loaders are better as they use far less hot water (energy and water savings) but a good one is going to be anywhere from about $800 to $1600.
Posted on Sep 17, 2009
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