When I use the action/advanced photo mode for sporting events. I cannot seem to get the camera to use the flash at night, or any other time. Is there a reason why it won't? I thought perhaps being fast action that the flash may blur the picts and that is why the camera is not set up to flash while using this mode. Do you think a flash slave might fix this issue, or would this be a waste of money (that I can't afford to waste)? Love the camera except for this one particular issue. Help me if you can. I appreciate your time and assistance. Thanks!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: flash on action shot
Your flash Curcuit is out and need to be replaced I do not have one in stock. I beleave you can get a broke digital camera off ebay to get on from. or if their is a external flash for your camera that should fis it also.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The DSC-HX300 has 16 shooting modes, Anti-motion Blur, Back Light
Beach,,Fireworks, Food, Handheld Twilight, High Sensitivity, Landscape, Night Portrait, Night Scene, Pet Portrait, Smooth Skin, Snow, Soft Focus, Sports.
>Use the Sports mode for action. Use the 'burst' option and you'll get several images and be able to select the best moment.
Wider angles (rather than extreme telephoto) allows for less blur if the camera is handheld (even teh improved Steady shot feature can only do just so much.) You may have better results optimizing for either ISO or shutter speed, but that will be lighting and speed-of-action dependant. You'll probably need to experiment a bit.
More likely you don't have enough light for clear photos. There's not too much you can do about this, since you probably can't add more light to the stadium or arena and the action is too far away for your flash.
Since the low light is going to force a rather slow shutter speed on you, you need to stabilize the camera. Use a tripod or monopod. That won't stop the athletes from blurring, but at least the setting will be sharper. Alternatively you can try panning with the motion, freezing the athlete and blurring the background.
A faster lens will get you a couple of additional stops, but as such lenses can cost $2000 and more, unless you're taking pictures for Sports Illustrated...
Sports mode gives you a high shutter speed. Continuous just allows the camera to keep taking pictures as long as you hold the shutter button and keep the autofocus moving. You need very high Iso capabilities (6400+) and very fast lenses (f1.8, f2.0, f2.8) to shoot indoor sports and night games under lights and stop motion without a very powerful flash system. Standard consumer stuff just can't do it and even with a good flash it cannot work very far. You can set the camera to night mode and it will give you your highest iso and slow shutter speeds but you will end up with motion blur. I shoot a D300($1600) and a 70-200mm F2.8($1900) and I can just barely get away with it. To do it right cost about $8000! I'm now professionally shooting just to pay for the next camera. Hobby too Hell in a hurry.
Built in flash units on digital cameras are only meant to be used out to a distance of 6-12 feet. When taking photos of events ie graduations, sporting events, concerts you need to do two things. 1). Change the ISO setting on your camera. This is the same as the old film speed ratings the higher the number the more sensitive the camera becomes. try ISO 1600 or above in low light. 2) You have a mode setting, set it for the type of lighting that is in the space you are in, incandescent, flourescent or whatever, it's easy to do. and finally 3) Turn off your flash! When your flash is on your camera closes up the aperature and takes the picture at a higher rate of speed in anticipation of reflected light off of nearby objects, so your pictures will be darker and blurrier with the flash on.
Even high grade professional flashes only work out to 20-30 feet so they won't help you. Read your cameras manual on taking pictures in low light conditions. It will give you all of the above in great detail. You have a great camera but you need to learn how it works, don't give up on it.
The D40 will not take great photos of an indoor event without blurring or noise. You need a fast lens and a high ISO using the popup flash or on camera flash would be ideal but some of these events you can not use flash. All these images I shot with a Nikon D40. http://www.facebook.com/home.php?src=fftb#/pages/Keller-TX/Raving-Design/78762448229?v=photos&ref=ts Learn to use the camera for ur events. Experiment it's all about trial and error. Ray
Sorry, I didn't get those pages. You can set the shutter speeds for the higher settings using the M or S mode on the camera. You can also adjust the ISO settings to increase the light sensitivity for proper exposure at the higher shutter speeds. I would shoot a few test shots before the action starts to see if any adjustments are required.
The built in flash on the camera won't be of much help in a large room like a gym. It only has a effective range of about 10 feet.
I laugh every time I see the flashes going off at a large sporting event with folks in the upper seats firing away....
To keep the video and images, transferr images to the computer:
If you have a Compact Flash media card connected to your machine, plug the card in the reader and follow the instructions of the software program to transfer to your favourite photo software.
Another method is connecting your camera to the computer using the supplied USB cable:
Install the camera software on the CD following the guides that came with the camera.
Connect the camera to the computer using the USB cable connecting to the camera in the Digital Terminal under the Terminal Cover on the right of the computer (looking at the lens).
Transfer using your favourite photo software, or the software installed from the CD.
Next question, yes, you can get regular pictures from this, use the dial to select one of the modes to shoot photos. This information can be found in your manual too...
Auto - use this setting almost all the time. All settings, including flash will be automatically decided for you.
P - Program mode, ISO and shutter speed will be selected, all other settings you can override if you wish to set them.
Tv - Shutter priority, requires you to indicate how fast the lens iris will open. The Apperature (size of the iris) will be decided by the camera. all other settings you can override if you wish to set them.
Av - Apperature priority, requires you to indicate the size of the lens iris. The Apperature (size of the iris) will be decided by the
camera. all other settings you can override if you wish to set them.
M - Manual priority, requires you to set both the Shutter (iris speed), and shutter (iris size). All other settings you can override if you wish to set them.
The other dial settings are:
Portrait - automatic settings for still family/portrait photos
Landscape - automatic settings for landscape mountain or outside scenes
Night - automatic settings for low-light conditions
Sports - automatic settings for high-speed events (sports, plays, movement)
Slow speed - for making things look blurry like they are in action. Advanced setting.
Stitch - allows you to take multiple pictures of a wide scene and later stitch them together in to a panoramic scene
You should not use the flash for these shots (unless you connect a powerful external flash), it won't help you at this distance. You should use the shutter priority mode and experiment with shutter speed (no flash) to get the best result - for sports action it should probably be faster than 1/100 sec. If the light is too low you may use higher ISO setting - 200 or 400 (though higher ISO will result in grainier images, it may be your only option for blur-free photos).