Question about LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

3 Answers

I have an LG WM2277HW front loading washer. I may have multiple problems. First problem occurred when the drum was found out of balance during the spin cycle enough to hit the sides. Rearranged clothes, problem lessened. Noticed it less so during next washing cycle. Didn't think I had a problem at that point. Today, found clothes were still very wet. I viewed a cycle and saw the drum tumble a few times at the start of the cycle. As water was introduced the spinning/tumbling stopped for the entire cycle. The motor sounded like it was working but the drum would not spin. I ran through the QC spin-related tests and they all passed however the drum looks out of balance and continues to hit the sides...even when spun by hand.

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  • 7 more comments 
  • Sam Aug 24, 2010

    I just reran the QC test and let the 'high speed' spin test run. The drum was not hitting the sides although there was a lot of wobble and vibration.



    I seem to remember when this machine was new, it spun truer by hand. Today it has a slight rub and it looks like the drum is 'out of round'.

  • Sam Aug 25, 2010

    Hi rickead1 - I'll open up the top lid and get back to you. Thanks.

  • Sam Aug 25, 2010

    The 2 springs and 3 dampeners appear to be ok. The entire drum assembly moves a little as expected. I couldn't locate the pulley you mentioned nor could I locate it in the parts blowup.



    I think the stainless steel basket has too much play. I can put my finger at the 12:00 o'clock position and easily lift the basket up almost an inch until it touches the outer drum. Same symptom from the sides as well (3:00 and 9:00). It feels like the basket is just sitting in there with nothing holding it steady.



    What holds the basket in place? The bearings and seal? The spider?



    Thanks,

    Sam

  • Sam Aug 25, 2010

    I ran a rinse/spin cycle with no clothes...the rotor/stator assembly moves forward and backward (tumbles) ok but the stainless steel basket/spider does not move with it. The basket only moved slightly and occassionally.



    When it hit the spin cycle (medium), the basket eventually spun but then started banging the sides of the outer drum. When I tried a cycle with 3 towels yesterday it never spun. I figured there was too much weight.

  • Sam Aug 26, 2010

    Hi heatman101,



    My machine doesn't jump around as violently as you described. When I turn the basket by hand you can see that it is not spinning in a nice tight circle. It seems to rub at about the 1:00 position. At such low speed the dampeners would not come into play.



    In one of my comments I stated how I can easily lift up the basket about an inch at the 12:00 o'clock position. Can you tell me if this is normal? I think there's too much play. If so, what would be the fix?



    Thanks.

  • Sam Aug 26, 2010

    Can anyone tell me whether the basket should have the amount of play I described in my post
    (1" at the 12'oclock position)?

    Also...I just tried to hold the stator bolt with a socket while my son turned the basket by hand. It turned easily. Of course the opposite happened as well (I turned the socket while he held the basket. The socket just spun with very little resistance while he held the basket in place).

    Is this a bearing issue?
    Thanks

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    rickead1 - I'm not sure if you saw all my replies as you were giving me replies. They are not displaying on the thread. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Thank you very much for your help and instruction!

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    rickead1 - Thank you very much for the advise. You gave me enough information to determine that the bearings are shot. I'm going to try and tackle the replacement on my own starting this weekend. Once I have it apart, I'll see if I can remove the bearings or just replace the whole rear drum. Again, thank you very much. This will save me a lot of money!

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    caroldon - Thank you for replying back to me. We determined in Solution 1 that the bearings are shot. I'm either going to replace them or replace the entire rear outer drum.

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 1,998 Answers

Remove the top panel to inspect the spring and suspension you could have one that is off you remove the upper panel by three screws located in back of the machine on the lid itslef
also look down the back side you should see a belt that is on a pulley or a dive motor that is attached to the drum look at this type of pulley in the center of it many times that small center bolt that holds that pulley on comes loosend and starts to back out of the machine which ends up casing a sort of wobble when its washing the clothes also ends up making your belt on the belt models warped out and it eventually ends up falling off so all in all remove the top lid panel and slide the lid backwards and then inspect by running your washer and watching whats going on while the lid is off. please remember to rank this opinion and if i can answer any other questions please message me back i thank you again have a great day
rickead1

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

  • 18 more comments 
  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    sam there is a motor drive hooked onto the back of the drum il add this link write back and tell if u can see the diagram you also have a type of strut (4 of them two front bottom two back bottom although some models only have two )that is located under the unit the helps to stabilize the drum from hitting the side heres the link bud write me back

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...



    rickead1

    p.s i have seen those struts go bad as well as bust the plastic hoousings on outter tub which cause the same type of problem your having as well

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    the springs and the struts hold it in place as well as the rear spindle that goes through the motor.how did you check the damper struts to assure that they were working properly were u able to measure the resistance of each? this same problem happens also on ge and whirlpool duets as well id try replacing the damper struts before you replace anything else especially if you do alot of heaving loads

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    I think I may have mis-stated something. The stainless steel basket is hitting the inside of the outer plastic drum. The plastic drum itself is not hitting the side panels of the washing machine itself. Sorry.

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    When I ran the test cycle while the top lid was off, I didn't see excessive movement of the outer plastic drum. I did not remove the dampeners to test their resistance. I was more concerned with how much play the inside basket had. Is there a way I could send you a quick video of the basket?

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    rickhead01 - Are you able to see the comments I posted for headman01? I mentioned that I could hold the basket in place and spin the rotor/bolt without any resistance. From what I've read, I should be able to hold the basket and use a socket to remove the bolt. It's like a clutch or something is slipping.

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    oh hitting the inside thought u were saying the outter drum is hitting the outside sec gonna look up one thing so yr saying the inner drum is scraping on the outter drum correct? write back

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    for some reason i wasnt able to see yr comments till just now look at the diagram i sent ya you see the second one that shows that rear spindle?

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Yes. It does it when I hand turn the basket and it did it with the last two load of laundry that I ran through the machine.

    Of course, now the basket won't spin at all with clothes inside.

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    if the inside basket is hitting the outside basket then your rear bearing is going or gone sorry about the confusion wasnt able to see yr posts

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Yes, I see the spindle. I assume that's what the bolt on the rotor is attached to. How does the basket connect to the spindle? This is what appears to be really loose. I can easily flop the basket up and down...almost like it's not even connected even though it is.

    I was going to remove the bolt, rotor, and motor but I figured I'd just see the backside of either a seal or bearing (K-122 on the diagram).

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Bummer. This is what I thought was the problem.

    From what I've read, I need to remove the drum, separate it and either replace the rear drum with the bearings and seal or replace just the seal (pressing in and out). I'd rather replace the rear drum ($175?). What is the best way to remove the drum?

    I was thinking I can remove the front panel, boot, and any components that are in the way; remove the top and bottom weights from the outer drum; release the dampers and springs; pull the drum out from the front. Does that sound right or is there an easier way?

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    its about a 3 hr job fun not well you picked a good one to start on appliance repair though check prices for the bearing from marconeappliance parts and allbrandsappliance one of them willbe cheaper make sure they give you new seals as a kit because if you get the bearing without the new seals its a waste of a job

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    take of the whole front panel remove the pump diconnect the dampers from the bottom heres the tricky part those springs up top have alot of tension get couple 2x4 to prop it up without to much pressure remember outta drum is plastic remove both outta and inner as one piece

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    anything else i can help you with? please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation and if i can help you any further message me back thanks again

    rickead1

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Last question...After I remove the bolt, stator, and motor, should I be able to pull the stainless steel basket?

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Rick - I can't see the comments I've been typing to you. I hope you received them. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend. Thank you very much for your help.

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    make sure you go around the back two small screws to where that spindel goes to im not able to pull up that diagram for some reason but i just remember last time i changed the bearing in one of those wouldnt come out till i went around the back and seen where the spindel hooks sec gonna try pulling that diagram soz i work on alot of differnt models want to be sure

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    yeah bud that spindle got a nut on it that goes through the back shud be like a cover plate that hides the nut

  • Sam Aug 27, 2010

    Ok, great. Are you getting my comments? The page is just showing your replies. I don't want you to think I've left. Wish me luck!

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Aug 27, 2010

    thank you again

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  • LG Master
  • 17,129 Answers

Possible that the suspension dampers are faulty . so you will need to check from under the washer to see that the counter balancing is working with the tensioner sprrings and the damper in unison. If the shockabsorbing dampers are bad replace, or if the springs have lost tension.
Please check also the drain valve and if possible remove the drain hose and clean out dirt. also check the inlet hose.
I think the fault must be centred around the drum moving out of balance. check if the belt drive or the spindle of the washer if it is tight with friction and makes the motor to move it outward forcing the drum to agitate. So get to correct the drum motion before the the other fault can be corrected.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 27, 2010

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  • LG Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3663122-washer_problems_washer_noise_when

heatman101

Posted on Aug 26, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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