Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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Will not run only on gas but will not cool - Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator

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  • Dometic Master
  • 3,740 Answers

If it works on gas and NOT electricity then the heating element is not getting power or the heating element is open. The heating element is located on the tubing just aft of where the pilot flame is on the bottom of the copper tube. You should check for power to the heating element and with power off perfom a continuity check on the element. I really do not at this time think you have a heating element problem.

There is a 120VAV element a AND a 12VDC element. The chances of both of these failing at the same time is pretty slim.

There is a note in the manual:
If the gas only pushbutton is depressed the
lamp will illuminate green and the refrigerator
will only operate on the LP gas mode, even if q
120 or 12 volts are available.

Another significant change in the third
generation A.E.S. system is how the 12 volt
heating element mode operates. As with the
first and second generation series, the 12 volt
heating element circuit is energized by the
ignition lock terminal. This terminal receives
its DC voltage from a wire that runs from the
run side of the vehicle’s ignition switch to the
refrigerator’s ignition lock terminal. This
allows the 12 volt heating element to be
energized only when the RV is traveling down
the road.
When the ignition lock terminal is energized
by the ignition key, the printed circuit board
must see at least 13.3 volts DC for a period of
40 seconds before the system will activate the
12 volt DC heating element.
If 13.3 volts is not achieved in this time frame,
the electronics will light the LP gas burner and
the refrigerator will operate on the LP gas
mode.
LOWER THAN 13.3 V.D.C. =LP Operation

If the battery voltage remains low after the
delay cycle, the automatic controls will light
the refrigerator on the LP gas mode and stay
on the gas mode until the printed circuit board
sees approximately 13.3 volts DC to the
terminal block.

For proper cooling on the AC mode, the AC
voltage to the refrigerator should not vary
more than 10 percent from the voltage rating
on the heating element. Heating elements used
in Dometic refrigerators could have a rated
voltage of 110 volts, 115 volts or 120 volts AC.
Because of this, the power requirements for
each differently rated heating element will
vary. For example, if a heating element is
rated for 100 volts, the acceptable power range
would be between 99 to 121 volts AC. If an
element is rated for 115 volts, the acceptable
power range would be between 103.5 to 126.5
volts AC. If the heater is rated for 120 volts,
the acceptable AC power range would be
between 108 to 132 volts AC.

The unit to operate on either AC or DC must have 13.3 volts to the unit. I think this is where your problem lies in that the battery voltage is less than 13.3 VDC


If all of that checks good just repsond here and I will help you. There is still more that can be checked.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Posted on Aug 25, 2010

  • Kelly
    Kelly Aug 26, 2010

    Let me just add that no cooling at all with even one mode working is a sign that the coolant system has leaked. You should have the coolant system pressure checked. These uints use ammonia for coolant and if you have a leak usually you notice the smell of ammonia.

    Kelly

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3 Answers

Dometic rm7732 not cooling


Hi,

If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor

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1 Answer

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More information required
does the compressor run ? It's the black round object behind the fridge if it's not running check the defrost knob on the bottom rear corner of the fridge sometimes they get stuck

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I assume you put fuel in the tank. This car uses a small high pressure fuel pump to pump gas to the engine, this pump is located inside the fuel tank, the tiny pump depends on the gas it sits in for cooling and for lubrication, if you run out of gas you quickly damage the pump, in fact any time you run below 1/8 tank you cause it to run hot, so you might get away with running out of gas once or twice by you always run the risk of the pump freezing up from lack of lubrication and cooling when you run out of gas, which is what you have likely done.

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it sounds to me like u have a gas leak.you shouldent run the a/c until it gets fixed reason being that the cold suction gas is used to cool the compressor windings.if u continue to to run it you may end up in more expenses:-)

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If the compressor is running and not cooling, it is a sign of some blockage or gas leak.

If compressor running, remove the front grill, filter screen. Feel the evaporator (cooling ) fins top to bottom or vice versa. If little chillness is noticed faintly it is gas circuit related. Capillary block or gas leak or weak compression of the compressor. Take service help.

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Unit cools for a few minutes then stops cooling. Even fan stops blowing air but the unit remains 'on'


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