- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You probably have a ice dam in your ice tray. The anger is trying to dispense if but if the cubes have frozen together and produced a large chunk of ice it cannot break up. Open the freezer door completely and lift up and pull out through ice tray. Remove ice until dam removed. Reassert tray and make sure to turn ice maker back on. It is essy to inadvertently bump switch. Try dispensing ice to see. If noise went away.
Hope this helped!
There are two large motors in those. 1 is the fan and the other is the compressor. There is nothing that you can do about the compressor but the fan can get noisy if there is an ice build up from the coils not defrosting right.
When a start relay and the coil that opens the water for the ice maker or the water dispenser begin to weaken they some times buzz. Its possible you will need to either replace the=> 67003753 Water Inlet Valve
The ice maker
has completely stopped producing ice:--Check to see
whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire
along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If
this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units
you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On
others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is
in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8
degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not
produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as
necessary. The ice maker is producing ice poorly:--When an ice
maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or
when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a
defective water inlet valve.First, check the water line attached to the
back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the
water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the
refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the
water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair,
clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If
the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve. Noise can come
from these areas: The inside of
the freezer:--Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to
move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs
whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the
top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.If the freezer is on the
bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer. If the freezer is on
the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top. Over time, the
fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it
may make a loud groaning noise instead.To find out if the fan is causing
the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If
the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the
cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it. The outside back of the refrigerator:--There are three
components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the
compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer
(if self-defrosting).The compressor is a football-sized case
with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the
refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or
copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the
compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will
reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly. If the condenser fan
is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan
blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin
panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and
use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on
the blade, you will have to replace the motor.The defrost timer is often
located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick
plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The
timer must be replaced to solve this problem. The bottom of the refrigerator:--Noises detected
at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the
refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will
rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the
“Outside back of the refrigerator.” This will help.thanks.
Dripping sound. During the defrost, water draining from the freezer section will drip into the pan by your compressor in the back and bottom of your refrigerator. * Air rushing or blowing. There is a fan in the freezer section and in some models in the back and bottom of your refrigerator to circulate air. This is a normal sound. * Louder when starting or coming on. Compressor operates at a higher pressure when first starting and noise should disappear as refrigerator continues to run and balance pressures. * Popping, crackling, or sizzling about once a day. If your model is self-defrosting, the defrost system utilizes a heater to remove the ice and frost from the freezer coil. During this period you will hear some expansion noises as heat is applied to the coil and you may experience some sizzling sounds as the melting water drips on the heater. * Running water. If you have an ice maker equipped model, the ice maker will call for water as the old batch of cubes is ejected and the ice maker starts to make more cubes. This will last for about 10 seconds and is normal. * Vibrating or rattling noises
Mine has been doing the same thing and foound it was the pump cavitating (dry). What caused it on my unit is there was buildup of minerals on the sides of the freezer plate so the ice slab wouldn't slide all of the way down onto the grid. When the unit would start the next cycle the water would ramp up over the stuck slab and down into the ice bin and then the pump would start making the noise. A related problem could be the cutter grid not heating so the slabs back up and results in the same issue. Look up into the freezer plate next time it makes the noise and see if there is a slab partially stuck.