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I have an ASKO dryer model 7005 and have the same problem as your recent email customer with ther eemail problem below: The dryer will start but will not stay on once I let go of the s button and if i hold the button it works but does not get warm. I am having this same problem as the person who you wrote this problem above on July 10. I read your solution and the dryer vent is blowing just fine. The dryer still works for several loads and then trips the reset again. Does that mean that the heater element is shorted or bad like you say? If shorted wouldn't the heater not work at all and just trip the reset right away? If not, is there any way I can troubleshoot to the next level to make sure that heater element is bad before I go out and buy a new heater element only to find that it is something else. Is there somewhere I can check a voltage or resistance to see if it is shorted or working properly. I am an electrical engineer and know how to read schemetics and use a voltmeter and other electrical equipment? Could it be a faulty reset switch. Please help Mike

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  • mikek01 Aug 24, 2010

    Also, the air coming out of the vent when it is running is forcefull and warm as would be expected. It runs about 6 or 12 loads just fine before the reset trips. If the thermostat is bad which one would it be there are several.

  • mikek01 Aug 24, 2010

    Yes the rest trips and I pull the dryer out and reset it. It runs about 6 or 12 loads just fine before the reset trips again. If the thermostat is bad which one would it be, there are several . Also, the air coming out of the vent when it is running is forcefull and warm as would be expected. The air comes out strong enough to lift open the outside flapper all the way and is warm air.

    I also pulled out the filter and washed it with warm water and soap. Could there be lint buildup somewhere else in the dryer or somewhere in the venting chain. It is about 10 years old, ASKO model 7005?



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Hello Mike,

Welcome to Fixya,

Let`s start with the obvius...have you checked the manual reset hi-limit cut-out at the back of the dryer you spoke of ? It`s located on the back panel about 1/2 to 3/4 the way down and will look like a small round black rubber button.

Push it to see if it "clicks" and then try your dryer.

What to look for if it`s tripped...

  1. Plugged venting - make sure your venting is clean and clear of lint or un-obstructed where it exhaust`s outdoors.
  2. Plugged lint screen - ( part # 8061812 ) This is especially relevant if one uses fabric/static sheets as they contain wax...especially lesser name brand sheets. You can clean the lint screen by removing it from the door and with some mild soap and hot/warm water wash old toothbrush works well for cleaning it. Careful not to rip the fine screen.
  3. The blower wheel/fan impeller ( part # 8055200 ) attached to the front of the motor which moves the air through and over the clothes in the drum may be loose, broken or covered in lint, hence causing the hi-limit to trip.
  4. A faulty heating element ( part # 8063808 ) can also cause the hi-limit to trip as well. If the element is shorted to the casing it will not cycle "off" via the 115°C (part # 8008807 ) cycling thermostat, thus cycling off via the hi-limit 150°C ( part # 8008487 ) as you stated.

  5. Let me know how that works or if you`ve already tried that. If it is tripped, resetting it may only temporarily resolve your problem since it is usually tripped due to venting or heater issues. If it is not tripped let me know and we can explore other possibilities.
The resistance value to look for on heater - 66.7/25.7 ω The element has a maximum power rating of 2620W but consists of two loops of 1900W and 720W, which permits rewiring from 2620W to

Good luck.


Posted on Aug 24, 2010

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Aug 24, 2010

    Hello again,

    Based on what you`vevalready said and done, I`d suggest removing the back heater cover and seeing if it is completely clogged with lint.

    You`ve mentioned there is good air flow, lint screen cleaned, it has to be something to do with the heater. Like I said, it being clogged with lint which will contain alot of moisture after cool down, hence it can potentially trip the hi-limit periodically.

    The back is easily removed, ( just the inner panel portion, kind semi-oval/egg shaped...not the outer cabinet/back panel perimeter screws ) just be careful once you`ve got all the screws out the edges are sharp.

    When you un-fasten the heater assembly, it will typically have plastic "zip ties" holding the wire harness to the panel, I usually cut it and replace the zip tie later.

    Let me know how you make out, you`re on the right track though.

    Good luck.

    macmarkus :)



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