Question about Akai LCT2701TD Television

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Zener Diode question

Hi! So glad to find this resource, as I'm having trouble with my LCD TV as described by another owner in this thread: http://www.fixya.com/support/t278524-lcd_television

My question is this: Can another diode be substituted for the 27v 1w zener described? I am having a problem sourcing that diode locally. Since you recommended the capacitors' voltage may be raised from 16v to 25v, I'm wondering if the same can be done with the diode. I purchased a 24v and a 30v (closest I could get to 27v) but have not yet heated up the soldering iron.....

Thanks for any advice you can give!

~Ian

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NO---- You can raise the wattage not the voltage. That component in whatever circuit it was designed to operate in requires 27v one direction thus a diode. At what strengths (wattage) will depend on the load. That particular diode will pass 27 volts up to 1 watt - one direction. Like a resistor never change the ohms rating but you can increase the watts, like from a 1.5 watt to a two watt or 1/2 watt to a 1 watt.
Unlike a capacitors that are designed to deliver voltage at a correct rate (ohms) its strength comes from its voltage rating. For a more reliable cap use a higher voltage but never change the rate.
Bill

Posted on May 07, 2008

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Power failure


if their is no power indicator at all that was mean the power supply failure. look for blown fuse, if the fuse is blown with darkened color you need to check first other component that get shorted pin before you replaced the fuse like zener diode and fet transistor. if you don't have an idea on how it will be trouble shot just send it to the service center near you.

Aug 03, 2012 | Sharp Aquos LC-32G4U 32 in. HD-Ready LCD...

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Hi, great writeup! I'm using it to troubleshoot a philips 37MF331D lcd tv. I...


This is the basic guide that can be applied to most LCD flat panel TV.
By Bud Martin
First, try unplugging it from the outlet for about an hour to see if the TV will reset itself since the minute the TV is plugged into the wall, the power supply and processor will be running 24/7 and the EPROM can get corrupted by spikes and surges. Try using good quality surge suppressor to see if it will help if it happen often.
Look for burnt brown hot spots on the circuit boards, capacitors with leaking/bulging top or seals. Loose wires and connectors. Blown fuses.
Notes: We are dealing with high voltage that can kill you! so if you are not sure what you are doing, please have it fixed by the pro that has proper tools and safety equipment. Try to use GFI outlet and isolation transformer when work around the TV set and DO NOT DEFEAT THE GROUND PIN OF THE OUTLET/POWER CORD.

1) The power supply module (There are 4 regulated output voltages:- Standby 5vdc, switched 5vdc, 12~16vdc, and 24vdc).

The power supply converts the 120/230vac 50/60Hz into DC, then the high frequency (50~100kHz) switching circuits convert it back to AC but at high frequency which allows the power supply to use smaller and much lighter weight transformers (Ferrite core instead of heavy iron core), then this high frequency AC voltage is fed to the rectifier Diodes to get the DC output and filtered by DC filter capacitors that must have low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance), if general purpose electrolytic caps are use, they will fail within a year or less due to high ESR.

The power supply has Standby 5vdc (5VSB, this is a MUST have before anything else will work, when this voltage is not present, there will be no any indicator light on the front panel) which is always on the minute the TV is plugged into the AC outlet, so it is on 24/7 and that is why the power supply will fail even though you may use the a TV not very often. It will see all the voltage spikes and surges 24/7.
This 5vdc is used to power the Processor and the Infrared remote receiver module which will be waiting for the command from the remote control or from the power switch, when the Power on command is received, the Processor will send the turn on signal (3.3~5vdc) to the power supply module (PSON pin) to the switch on the main 5vdc for the rest of the logic and Tuner circuits, 12~16vdc for the sound amplifiers (mostly Class D amplifier for efficiency and small size) and for the T-CON board (interface board between the LCD panel, some T-CON uses 5vdc, and the Logic board), and 24vdc for the Back lights inverter board (if there is no 24vdc then no back light).
Common failures:
Blown main AC fuse due to shorted out Diodes, transistors.
Bad capacitors leaking or bulging tops:
Shorted Diodes, transistors in the DC output side.

Testing the power supply output with dummy load:
24vdc testing: Disconnect the wires that go to the inverter board first. You can use two #1157 (using both Lo & Hi filaments by paralleling them at the base) car light bulbs connected in series so they can handle the 24vdc, this will put light load (about 70w) on the 24vdc output, the voltage out should be steady at 24vdc (+/-2v), if not, the power supply has regulation problem.
12vdc testing: disconnect the 12vdc TV load from the power supply board and attach one #1157 (using just the Hi filament), the 12vdc output should stay at 12v (+/-1v), if not, the power supply has regulation problem.

You should see the lamps go on when the TV power switch is ON and go OFF when the TV is powered OFF.

2) Main Logic board (It has Processor, Tuner, Sound Processor, Sources selector, Power amplifiers for speakers, interface port to the T-CON board for pictures).
This logic board sends out the turn on signals (3.3~5vdc) to turn on the rest of the Power supply module (Switched main 5vdc, 12~16vdc, and 24vdc), Inverter backlight ON (if no back light on command then there is no back lights),
Logic board supplies 5 or 12vdc to T-CON board B+ pin through switched transistor if T-CON board does not get the voltage from the logic board, you will get white/gray glowing screen without pictures.
Back lights Dimming (PWM) control signal.

3) Back lights Inverter board. Its job is to provide the drive voltage for the CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) to give white light for the screen.
This board is fed by the switched 24vdc (VBL) from the power supply module, it also get the Back lights on (BL on) control signal and the Dimming (Dim/PWM/) signal from the logic board. So for it to work, it needs 24vdc and the BL_ON signal.
Common failures:
Blown surface mounted fuses due to shorted transistors/ICs, Transformers.
Bad capacitors.

4) The T-CON (Timing Control or LCD controller) board (on the LCD panel assembly). It transfer the universal image signal of TTL and LVDS signal to specific TFT (Thin Film Transistor) LCD.
This is the interface board that talks to the Logic board and the LCD panel to produce pictures on the screen. White/gray glowing screen when it fails or not getting the voltage from the logic board (the 5 or 12vdc is supplied by switched transistor on the logic board). Notes: T-CON board is mounted under the metal cover shield.
Common failures:
Scrambled pictures, Lines, multiple pictures, color smears/blotches, rolling pictures after warm up.
Blown surface mounted fuse.
No pictures, very dark screen almost like there is no backlights.

5) LCD panel assembly to display pictures. The LCD pixels will block or unblock the back lights from the back of the panel to the front of the panel. This is the most expensive part of the TV, it will be more than the TV is worth.

As you can see, you must have all the above Voltages and signals for the TV to work properly. This may help you narrowing down the bad modules instead of buying the wrong module just to find out later that it did not solve the problem. Hope this will help you out.

Sound problem:
Let verify first to narrow down to where the problem can be. First, check the on screen sound set up menu to make sure the speakers are not set to OFF. If the setting is OK, then attach the powered PC speakers to the Audio Line out RCA jacks to see if you can get the sound there, if you do, then the problem can be in the power amp circuits, if you do not get the sound at RCA jacks, then the problem can be in the sound processor circuit. To get the sound repair, it can be from $150 and up, so if you can put up with using the good set of Powered PC speakers which actually give better sound than the tiny speakers inside the TV, I would keep using it that way, you may want to find out if the on screen sound setup will allow you to set the audio line out to be VARIABLE which means the sound output feeding the PC speakers can be varied using the TV remote control, then all you have to do is to set the PC volume to about half way up and set the TV volume to what ever you want.

Inverter board connector: you can also see the Fuse 4A/160V
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net13ca788.jpg
Power supply connector:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net78e0d9a.jpg

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net2fc510f.jpg
T-CON board: (metal cover shielding is removed to show the bd.)
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net0b5367e.jpg
Inverter board:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netaf0a695.jpg
Logic board:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net4bd108e.jpg
T-CON board is dead, no power or blown fuse on the board, screen turns WHITE, must see it in darkened room, otherwise you may mistaken it for failed backlight.
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net3a91b68.jpg
Bad T-CON board after warm up, you get lines, multiple pictures, strange colors blotches, etc.
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netd3cf194.jpg
Bad caps (leaking/bulging tops). Make sure to replace bad cap with good cap such as PANASONIC FM or FC series , they are Low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) which is a must for switch mode power supply, and 105c rating. Do not use generic electrolytic caps.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netbe827ec.jpg
Bad T-CON board or power supply problem

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net034e1db.jpg

24vdc power supply output testing using two 12vdc car lamps in series.

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net4f2929c.jpg
Bad LCD panel, vertical 1~2 pixel wide lines
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net28e50c1.jpg
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm

Free service manuals: www.elektrotanya.com

on Nov 07, 2010 | Sony BRAVIA KDL-40S2010 40 in. LCD...

1 Answer

The tv will not turn on?


If the tv appears dead with no standby light, try this: I have come across several units with this problem. The issue is a shorted diode. It will be one of the top ones fanning out from the transformer on the upper right of the board. Typically the top one at an angle just below the blue capacitor. It will cost just over a dollar at mouser.com. The diode is a FR154-b 1.5A 400v rectifier diode. This will fix you up! Use a multi meter to test for short. The Zener diode above this one may read as shorted but is is probably not. The other one is linked to it

Dec 04, 2011 | Emerson LC320EM9 32 in. LCD HDTV

2 Answers

Burning and fan type sound


That is probably the power section about to fail. The burning smell is going to be from overheating components. You will have to take it into either an akai repair depot or a local tv repair and have it looked at. Get an estimate first. The repair cost on this could be cheap if itis obvious and the repair gys are on the ball or it can be pricey if they just replace major parts (typical). Also have a good idea of what replacement cost is so you know if it is worth fixing.

Jul 20, 2010 | Akai LCT42Z6TA 42 in. LCD Television

1 Answer

Diode D534 (Zener?) is blown out on board Toshiba 26HF84 near AC input. This is as a result of a lightning strike. Need Toshiba part # or actual zener #. Don't want to invest on service manual for one...


it is not a Zener diode it is a varista you can get it from here:D534 part number AE003872
http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=AE003872&x=40&y=18 Good Luck!!!!!
Larry Dillon

Jul 03, 2009 | Toshiba 26HF84A TV

1 Answer

AKAI TV Repair Question


If Z3 was shorted, there are 2 surface mount resistors that were damaged when Z3 became shorted and they have to be replace as well. The reference designator for the resistors is R65A and R65B, their value is 10 ohms and 1206 is the body size of the resistors.

Jan 16, 2009 | Akai LCT2701TD Television

1 Answer

AKAI 27" LCD Power Supply - Replacing capacitors and diodes


Kris,
You can always replace a lower voltage cap with a higher voltage just don't change the rating... In fact you could replace the 16v cap with a 400v cap if it would physically fit.
As far as replacing a zener under the heat sink, yes you'll probably have to remove the heat sink itself if it's blocking. And as for any words of wisdom - if your repair is unsuccessful try replacing the module. Shop Jimmy usually has them used if you don't want to spend full bore and order a new one.
Good Luck!
Bill

Jan 07, 2009 | Akai LCT2701TD Television

1 Answer

Akai LCT2715 No Power


I have a different thread going, but saw yours and had a question. Is your light blinking steady and then off? or is it a blinking erraticly or even flickering? My bad caps (15 of them) were all on the secondary side of the PSU. I have been told (thanks to Jaimie Hernandez) if you have a steady blinking, then it is very likely that you have a bad zener diode Z3(27v/1Watt) shorted in the primary side of the power board. If that diode is shorted, it's very likely that 2 10 ohms resistors might be open, these resistors are connected to the cathode of Z3. Also check for bad caps on the Primary side.

I had a huge incentive to fix the TV, it is my wife's TV and she has been in my Man Cave since it died. How about that incentive.

Good luck

Gallagher68

Oct 19, 2008 | Akai LCT2715 27 in. LCD Television

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