Question about GE Refrigerators

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I just bought a pretty old, used GE fridge. (It's a freezer on top model.) The fridge is cold but the freezer isn't cold enough. It just barely makes ice part of the time. Ice cream defrosts and bread doesn't get all the way frozen. It's been plugged in about a week. I don't see any frost inside the fridge or freezer. What's wrong, and how can I fix it. (I'm an unemployed single mom, and will need to fix it myself. I'm pretty handy, and pretty determined.) Thank you!

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As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many other things that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then…

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay


Posted on Aug 24, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • k_dnoble Aug 24, 2010

    My FRIDGE is cold enough. But my FREEZER is too warm. Also, my fridge is so old I have all the black pipe-stuff on the back of the fridge (which gets really hot). This doesn't match any of the symptoms I've read about. When I first got the fridge home and plugged it in, it would click and turn on for a sec, then turn off. But the stuff in the fridge is ice-cold now. What's going on?

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Aug 24, 2010

    okay,the black pipe stuff is the part that disapates the heat... this needs to be able to breath and the air needs to be able to move around it..

    As far as the freezer goes... if the compressor is shutting down, then set the thermostat for the freezer colder...and then warmer a bit on the fridge part...this will take some adjusting and playing around to get it right... just move the dials 1 number at a time till and give a day between reset for things to level out...

    If the compressor is never shutting down then you are probably low on gas(freon) and to recharge that takes know how and special equipment...


  • k_dnoble Aug 24, 2010

    1. It's always humming and never stops. Does this mean the compressor is never shutting down? Should there be times when it's quiet?
    2. I also poked around and realized I'm getting ice on the ceiling of the fridge, and a little on the floor of the freezer. I took the freezer floor out, in search of evaporator coils, but found a bunch of white styrofoam, like in one of those crummy supermarket coolers. I couldn't find a way to get the styro out without messing it up, so I just left it alone. The styro had little ice ridges on it, presumably above where the evaporator coils were.

    Is it possible I got a fridge with multiple problems?

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Aug 24, 2010


    Yes, it should shut down at times... actually in reality it should only be running about half the time... if that....

    So, you probably did get a fridge that has issues, mostly it seems that it is a bit low on freon and that will be a problem because of its age. That fridge uses R-12 which is no longer made and is worth more then gold per pound...if you can even find it...

    you will have to live with waht you have and hope it is good enough for now or start looking for something else...

    sorry, I wish I had better news for you... :-(


  • k_dnoble Aug 24, 2010

    Thank you! At least I'll know not to spend time and money on something that can't be fixed. I don't suppose it's possible to substitute another kind of freon? What would happen if I tried?



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My GE model GSH25JFTCBB side by side is not cooling in the fridge side. Freezer seems to be doing fine. What could be wrong

you could have a defrost problem,a bad damper,bad computer board.first thing,open the freezer door,do you hear the fan blowing in there?you should,if not the evap fan motor is bad,if it's blowing touch the back inside wall of the freezer to see if any frost or like snow is on it,from the bottom up in the freezer remove the second bin of food and touch the back inside wall with your hand,if it has frost or snow you have a defrost problem,bad defrost thermostat,heater,sensor or board,if there isn't anything on the wall then you have a bad damper,all that happens is the evaporator coil in the freezer gets cold,then the evaporator fan in the freezer blows the cold air over into the fridge section,you have a damper in your machine that opens and closes when it's cold enough or when it needs to get colder,the door on the damper isn't opening to let the cold air in when it calls for cold air.if you can write back and let me know what you find and hopefully we can get it fixed.

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sounds to me that you have either a sensor problem or a main board issue. to avoid spend money and the intricasies of trouble shooting, call for service. Sears has a Service Smart Agreement that is reasonable and would cover needed repair up to 500.00

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if the compressor is running your ref. should be getting cold. Their is a defrost timer but when it is in defrost the compressor shuts off. I think you do have a leak.

any further question let me know.


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Check out these tips...they can help you figure out whats going wrong with yourrefrigerator and why it is not cooling

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Hello beadaholic,

You said, you have a TFX22GR by GE, it has been a very good unit all of these years. Anyway, recently it stopped keeping things cold enough.
Thanks for any help! I am pretty stubborn! hehe

I wish I only could have told you this earlier on!

Laura, I feel you spent to much money on this very old and inefficient fridge.
I would love to help you repair it!
But I would be doing you a disservice if I advised you to put even one penny more in to your fridge.
A new fridge would pay for it self in only a few years. They are so much more efficient today!

Do not put anymore good money into bad.
Here is an article I just read that you will find interesting and to the point.

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator

It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.

Please remember to enter a rating before you sign off!
God Bless, &Thank You, HUUUM

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