I have six 20w bulbs in an 120 system. They used to all work, but now #1, two works, 3,4,5,6 also don't work. I have checked the bulbs and connections to main wire seem fine. Do I have too many on system?

A six cylinder in-line engine has a power impulse every 720 degrees/6 i.e. 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation. The crankshaft has six crank-throws placed at 120 degrees out of phase with one another, which can be arranged only in three planes. Therefore, the crankpin phasing is arranged in pairs. For heavy-duty diesel engines, seven journals and bearings are provided, at each end and between adjacent crankpins. For petrol engines only 4 or 5 main journals are provided. The firing order with the crankshaft arrangement shown in the attached figure is considered. With piston 1 at the top of the compression stroke, its opposite piston 6 is at the top of its exhaust stroke. Rotation of crankshaft through 120 degrees brings pistons 2 and 5 to their TDC and either one of these can be arrangement to complete a compression stroke. If piston 5 is arranged to be at the end of compression and at the start of its power stroke, then piston 2 must be on its exhaust stroke. Rotation of crankshaft through second 120 degrees positions pistons 3 and 4 at the TDC, so either one of these can be on the compression stroke. If piston 3 is made to be on compression, piston 4 must be on its exhaust stroke. A third rotation of 120 degrees brings pistons 1 and 6 back again to TDC, where piston 6 is arranged to be on the compression and piston 1, therefore, be on its exhaust stroke. A fourth 120 degrees rotation brings pistons 2 and 5 to their TDC. Piston 2 is now on its compression and piston 5 on its exhaust stroke. Rotation of crankshaft through fifth 120 degrees brings piston 3 and 4 to TDC. Piston 4 is on compression and piston 3 on its exhaust stroke. Final rotation of 120 degrees completes the 720 degrees displacement of crankshaft and brings the pistons into positions for the next cycle. This cycle provides a firing order of 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. If the phasing of paired crank-throws 3 and 4 and 2 and 5 are interchanged, then a second equally suitable firing-order of 1, 4, 2, 6, 3, 5 is achieved. This arrangement provides excellent dynamic balance and evenness of torque, and is preferred for engines larger than 2.5 liters provided length is not a prime consideration.

Measure across the secondary of the transformer. If >20vac is present the board has the bug. Look for a fuse on it and visually inspect for a bad solder joint, if the board runs very warm solder joints can fatigue. If no voltage out of transformer you can buy a replacement using spec of 20volt secondary at 3 or 4 amps, since a 20 watt at 20 volt bulb consumes about 1 amp and there are 2 driven by the transformer.

1) Copy following link for malibu power pack tips for longer transformer life:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Malibu-power-pack-stopped-working.html

2) Two plug choices on each outlet, Plug power pack into other outlet on receptacle.
Inspect for damage on outdoor outlet.
Replace outdoor outlet, and do not use quick connects. Connect wire directly to screws on side of device.
Replace GFCI outlet.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hope you got this fixed Oscar, Since you have a manual and everything you've tried hasn't worked consider it either broken or something has failed. Could be a filter element you can change or a sensor that has failed. I haven't found a manual to look at so don't know if this system has any parts you can check or change. Also could be a UV bulb if it has one or the timer that calculates the bulbs life. Sorry not much help.

A 20 Amp breaker will support 2400 Watts with a 120 Volt line.

120 Volts times 20 Amps (Amperes) = 2400 Watts.

Answer? 24 100Watt light bulbs.

HOWEVER, you should always allow 1 cushion of 100 Watts.
That would be 23 100Watt light bulbs.

(Wait until you add electric motors to the equation. Things start getting a little more complicated)

(I always use 20 amp breakers for lighting. 15 amp breakers for lighting is phased out.

Secondly a 20 amp breaker requires using 12-2 or 12-3 wiring. (12/2, 12/3)
SO does the receptacles.
Therefore 12 gauge wiring is used throughout the house, until you come to the heavier loads )

[ 12/2 = 2 insulated conductors, and one bare copper ground wire.
12/3 = 3 insulated conductors, and one bare copper ground wire.

Remember, with 12/2 the Black wire is ALWAYS the Hot wire. White is Common (Neutral). Bare copper is Ground wire.

12/3 has 3 conducting wires.
One Black, one Red, and one White for the Common. (Neutral) Bare copper is Ground.
Used for 3-way switches ]

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Yes, normally there is small bulbs at the back that light up the gauges

https://www.amazon.com/Microwave-Oven-Light-Bulb-Globe/dp/B00ON51GT2

Usually 50 - 75 ft. is as far as you want to go, especially with 16 gauge wire. What happens is the lights get dimmer as the length of the run increases. If you don't mind the lights getting noticeably dimmer, go ahead and add the other 4 lights. Using a heavier (12 gauge) wire will help a lot. You'll want the 12 ga. to start at the transformer, preferably running the whole length. Also, using a smaller watt bulb will help.

If you have a 120 volt outlet near the approximate middle of the new (total 150 ft.) run, you could relocate the transformer to that location and have two 75 ft. runs in 2 directions.

Faber # 508-358-5353

These are 20W 120V bulbs with what's called the intermediate base. The new Panasonic part number is ANE6030540AP and you can get them at Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com or Vance Baldwin at http://www.vancebaldwin.com You should also be able to get them at local appliance parts stores, Lowe's (or similar) or even a large grocery store. You can also use Sharp part # RLMPT0003YBE0 from either of the above sites.